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HICRARY OF CONGRESS. I 

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I UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. | 




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GRAND TRUNK 

—IS THE— 

GREAT PLEASURE ROUTE, 

— OFFERING A — 

MOST ATTRACTIVE SELECTION 

—OF— 

POPULAR EXCURSIONS, 

Via Niagara Falls, River St. Lawrenpe, with Thousand 
Islands and Rapids, Montreal, Quebec, River 
Saguenay, Gulf Ports, Lower Provinces, Lake 
Champlain, and Lake George, Saratoga, the White 
Mountains, etc., etc. 

THE RICHELIEU AND ONTARIO KAVIGATION CO.'S STEAMERS 

Comprise the original Royal Mail and Richelieu Lines, with the addition of 
several new steamers, thus forming two first-class Lines of Steamers, which 
cannot be surpassed. They are the only lines now offerine Tourists an op- 
portunity to view the MAGNIFICENT SCENERY of the THOUSAND ISLANDS, 
RAPIDS OF THE ST. LAWRENCE, and the far famed RIVER SAGUENAY. 
This Route possesses peculiar advantages over any other between Niagara Fails 
and Quebec. Tickets are valid by Rail or Steamer. 

Pullman Palace Sleeping Cars will be attached to the evening train from 
Toronto, and will run through to Kingston Wharf, and passengers will remain 
in the car until the boat arrives. No extra charge for meals between Toronto 
and Montreal. 

The splendid condition of the Grand Trunk Railway, including its equip- 
ment of new Passenger Cars, new Locomotives, Steel Tracks, etc., bring it 
prominently before the public as a flrst-class line, preferable to the majority 
between the East and West, via Gorham and Glen House, by which parties can 
ascend Mount Washington by carriage road, by far the best approach to this 
attractive mountain range. 

Tickets and Information may be obtained at the principal Ticket OflRces, 
also, of the Agents of the Grand Trunk Railway Company, from whom Ex- 
cursions and Tourists' Routes and Rates of Fare can be obtained. 

J. B. LaBELLE, General Manager. 

A. MILLOY, Traffic Manager, R. & O. N. Co. 

JOSEPH HICKSON, General Manager, Grand Trunk Railway, MontreaL 

W. WAINWRIGHT, Assistant 

L. J. SEAKGEA^T, Traffic 

WM, EDGAR, General Passenger Agt., " 



THE 

PHAT BOY'S RACY DESCRIPTION 

OF THE 

St. Lawrence River 



AND ITS ENVIRONS. . 



^'^^^^^^V^gV 



A GUIDE FOR THE TOURIST AND TRAVELER. 



Making a Round. Trip from Hew York, via H. Y, C. & H. R. R. R, 

H. Y. W. S. & B. R. R., and the Ontario and. Western R. R., 

to Utica, Syracuse, Rochester, Bnlfalo. Niagara Falls and 

Toronto, through Lake Ontario, Thousand Islands and. 

Rapids oi the St. La-ijrrence River to Montreal, Quehec, 

Saguenay River, Lake Champlain, Lake George, 

Saratoga, Albany, ISTeiv York and. Boston. 



Fifth Edition, - - Copyrighted 1886. 



K. K. Babbaoe, Publishkr 



ROCHESTER, N. Y., 

POST-EXPRESS PRINTING COMPANY, 12 TO 18 MILL STREET. 




of compiling a book which does not contain any pictorial 
illustrations of the scenic beauty connected with the trip, 
feeling confident that a plain unvarnished description of all 
the various points of interest would be sufficient. The 
tourist can thus feast the eye on a thousand pictures that a 
volume ten times this size could not contain, for no matter 
how often you open the eyes during the day, they will fall 
upon some dehghtful scene, where the God of Nature has 
smiled upon her, within an hour. Neither have I given a 
highly colored description of the Rapids; they have been 
viewed and described by thousands, and the effect produced 
is as varied in character as the individual writers differed in 
temperament and looks. 

Trusting that this volume may meet with as cheerful a 
greeting by the public as it has always accorded my efforts 
to please, and if its perusal causes the weary or lonesome 
traveler one hour of mirth or pleasure, its mission will have 
been accomplished. 

Respectfully yours, 

E. F. BABBAGE, " Phat Boy," 

Guide to the St. Lawrence. 



REFERENCES FOR THIS WORK. 

We have a number of references as to tlie worth of this 
Httle volume. Space and time forbid a mention of them 
all ; some of the most prominent will suffice : 

1. At the request of a friend I purchased a copy of the 
Phat Boy's Racy description of the St. Lawrence River and 
the perusal caused me to laugh so much that the corners of 
my mouth shook hands at the back of my neck. 

T. W. O'Brien. 

2. At Alexandria Bay last season, a lady had the misfor- 
tune to sprain her ankle, (no matter how ; but we will say, 
least some one may be led astray as to the real cause, that 
it was not done falling or stumbling over the editor.) We 
very kindly gave her a copy of the " Phat Boy's" Racy Des- 
cription of the St. Lawrence River, and she was able to 
walk in ten hours after the accident, apparently as well as 
ever. 

3. This volume will not bring home a stray cow ; but it 
will do the next best thing ; milk them in the pasture, thus 
saving the wear and tear incident to their coming home. 

4. The delight and pleasure that the perusal of your Httle 
volume gave me, I am unable to Express. — Susan B. 

N. B.— Then send it by Freight.—" Phat Boy." 

5. A lady who had one copy (by the way, she was mar- 
ried,) wrote for the second; it was sent to her; but mean- 



while she had changed her residence to the Lunatic Asylum. 
Now here is a chance for married men who wish to become 
single for 25 cents. Send for a copy. 

6. A very restless, nervous man bought a copy ; read to 
page 63, went to sleep quietly for ten hours. First good 
rest in four years. 

7. It is good for maiden ladies ; has been known to cure 
headache, toothache, sprains, bruises, ingrowing nails, and 
it matters not. , 

8. Eli Perkins will read a copy of this work, August 25th, 
1886, and from that day until death will speak the truth. 



"PHAT BOY'S" RACY DESCRIPTION 



-OF- 



THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 



THE St. Lawrence River, with its Thousand Islands 
and Rapids, is day by day attracting more and more 
attention among tourists. There is so much that is grand, 
weird, sublime and exhilerating in the scenery and balmy 
atmosphere of the majestic river, as it passes in its onward 
flow from the lake to the gulf, that we need not for a mo- 
ment wonder why it is that there is a great annual increase 
in the number of those intelligent people, who, from East, 
West and South, repair to its placid waters in summer to 
recuperate their wasted energies and enjoy that luxuriating 
season known to every American as " vacation." 

A vacation on the St. Lawrence, means a sojourn at 
some pretentious or lowly cottage, or at some hotel of 
either class for a few days, or for one, two or more weeks, 
as the time, finances and incUnation of the individual may 
dictate ; or it may, as in hundreds of instances it does, only 
include a voyage of rapid transit from New York to Utica, 
Clayton, Niagara Falls, Lewiston, Toronto or Kingston to 
Alexandria Bay or Montreal, then return home. There are 
several different popular starting places to reach the river ; 
it is presumed you will take the most convenient one, and 
we will consider ourselves pleased with the selection. 



Route A. 



NEW YORK CENTRAL & H. R. R. R. LES- 
SEES OF THE WEST SHORE ROUTE. 



THE TOURIST ROUTE OF THE NORTH. 

While many suppose that both sides of the Hudson River 
present equal attraction — and it would be hard to decide 
which is the most beautiful — it is a curious fact that all, or 
nearly all, the noted summer resorts for which the country 
adjacent is famous are located on its western bank. Thus, 
starting from New York and following up the West Shore 
Route, we find the Palisades, Tappan, Rockland Lake, 
Stony Point, Cranston's, West Point, Cornwall, Lakes Mo- 
honk and Minnewaska, the Catskills, Saratoga, Mount 
McGregor, and the Adirondacks (in which the great river 
rises), all on the same side, and all easily accessible by the 
New York, West Shore and Buffalo Railway. In addition 
to these, the magnificent cars of this route convey the 
traveler to Lake George, Lake Champlain and Montreal, on 
the north ; Sharon Springs, Cooperstown, Richfield Springs, 
Niagara Falls, Buffalo and Chautauqua Lake, and make 
close connections for all the White Mountain and Eastern 
resorts, for the Thousand Islands, Watkin's Glen and the 
Lake region of Central New York. It is thus emphatically 



the tourists route of the north, and reahzing this fact, its 
projectors and managers have done everything in their 
power to render it attractive to this constantly increasing 
and most fastidious class of travelers. 

While traversing the most picturesque portions of a State 
noted for its scenery, this railway is the most complete in 
all details of construction and equipment of any in this 
country. It is a double track, steel rail Hne, with an un- 
usually wide space between tracks, running north from Jer- 
sey City along the west shore of the Hudson to Albany^ 
and thence through the fertile Valley of the Mohawk and 
across Central New York, touching at Utica, Syracuse and 
Rochester, to Buffalo and Niagara Falls. Its grades are 
easy, its curves are light, its steel rails are among the heav- 
iest known in railway construction, and its road-bed will be 
crowned with a deep ballasting of stone. 

Owing to this excellent road-bed and the great strength 
of its iron bridges this company has been able to build ex- 
ceptionally heavy locomotives for its various classes of traf- 
fic. The passenger engines burn anthracite coal, and are 
designed to haul trains of from ten to fifteen coaches at a 
high rate of speed. They are provided with special ar- 
rangements in the fire and smoke boxes and smoke stacks 
to consume all gases, and prevent the escape of smoke or 
cinders. 

LOCOMOTIVES, CARS AND STATION HOUSES. 

The entire passenger equipment of the road was especi- 
ally designed and built by the Pullman Palace Car Com- 
pany, and is the most complete in all details pertaining to 
elegance of finish, comfort and safety in the world. From. 



the palatial buffet cars with interiors finished in variegated 
hard-woods and furnished with plate glass mirrors, luxurious 
arm chairs, soft carpets and rich drapery, to the smoking 
cars, finished with figured oak, and provided with revolving 
chairs, upholstered in leather, all are the most perfect speci- 
mens of the car-builder's art extant. The exterior of the 
cars making up West Shore passenger trains is painted in 
a rich dark ofive and gold, which produces a most pleasing 
effect. 

The station houses erected along the entire route from 
New York to Buffalo are architectural gems, harmonious in 
color and design with the beautiful and picturesque scenery 
through which the road passes. Those at the New York 
terminus, at Kingston, Albany, Utica, Syracuse and Buffalo 
will, when finished, surpass in completeness and artistic de- 
sign any series of railway stations ever erected by a single 
company. 

THE NEW YORK STATION. 

The New York terminus of this great railway was pro- 
jected upon a scale of vastness and perfection of detail com- 
mensurate with the rest of the magnificent scheme. It is at 
Weehawken, opposite the heart of the great city, and close 
beneath the height on which Alexander Hamilton fell be- 
fore the pistol of Aaron Burr. It extends for more than a 
mile along the river front, and, with its numerous docks and 
piers, presents nearly six miles of working space, in whicli 
vessels of every description may receive freight. From here 
commodious and elegantly appointed ferry-boats run to the 
handsome up-town passenger station at the foot of Forty- 
second Street. The express trains of the West Shore Route 



leave from and arrive at the down town station, foot of Jay 
Street, accessible from Elevated stations at Franklin, Cham- 
bers and Barclay Streets ; also leave from and arrive at the 
up town station at the foot of West 42nd Street, New York, 
and from the foot of Fulton Street, Brooklyn. The pas- 
senger from New York has thus an option of starting from 
any one of half a dozen points, a great convenience when 
one considers the peculiar position and length of the city. 
Passengers are cautioned to consult official time-tables in 
the Company's publications, or in the leading newspapers, 
with the view of ascertaining just what trains leave from 
and arrive at the various stations named. 

In the subsequent pages one may obtain partial glimpses 
of some of the innumerable delightful places to which this 
highway for business and pleasure travel will guide him, and 
a few hints of the many pleasures in store for his summer 
holiday. 

BETWEEN NEW YORK AND THE THOUSAND 
ISLANDS. 

''THE ONTARIO ROUTE." 

New York, Ontario & Western Railway Co. 

Running from New York to the City of Oswego, on Lake 
Ontario, and in connection with the R. W. & O. R. R. 
from Cape Vincent, forming the most attractive route to 
the St. Lawrence River. It is the only line running Pull- 
man sleepers through without change between New York 
and the Thousand Islands. On arrival of trains at Cape 



12 

Vincent, the new steamer St. Lawrence, the handsomest 
and swiftest on the River, leaves for all landings among; 
the Islands. 

The train carrying through sleepers leaves New York at 
5:30 p. m., arriving at Cape Vincent at 9:30 a. m., and Al- 
exandria Bay at 11:30 a m.; giving tourists a delightful ride 
of twenty-five miles down the Islands to the Bay. Ample 
time is given at Richland for breakfast. Returning, the St. 
Lawrence leaves Alexandria Bay at 4:00 p. m., arriving at 
Cape Vincent at 6:00 p. m., and train leaves at 6:10 p. m., 
arriving in New York at 9:30 a. m. 

The depots and ferries of the New York, Ontario & 
Western Railway are located in New York at the foot of 
West 42nd Street and Harrison Street, from which points 
commodious and elegantly appointed ferry boats run to the 
passenger station at Weehawken, and in Brooklyn at the 
foot of Fulton, Brooklyn Annex. 

The route of the Ontario and Western, after leaving 
Weehawken, is west of the Palisades, through the counties 
of Bergen in New Jersey, and Rockland in New York, fol- 
lowing the fertile and romantic valley of the Hackensack. 
At Valley Cottage the road tunnels through the mountains, 
and for sixteen miles skirts the banks of the Hudson, 
through the Highlands, traversing all the historic and pic- 
turesque points along that world-famed stream. Then 
over the foot-hills of the Catskills, through the mountains 
of Central New York, and along the valleys of the Dela- 
ware, Neversink, Beaverkill and Chenango Rivers, with 
their lovely picturesque views of mountain, lake and river, 
to Lake Ontario, making one of the most beautiful routes 
across the Empire State. 



13 

The night express trains run every day, including Sunday. 
The Pullman buffet sleepers are of the latest models, and 
complete in all details pertaining to elegance of finish, 
comfort and safety. 

The City of Kingston, Ontario, is easily reached from 
Cape Vincent via Steamer Maud, which leaves after the 
arrival of train from New York, and returning leaves in the 
afternoon, connecting with train for the south. 

The New York Central & Hudson River R. R., leaving 
the Grand Central Depot, 42nd Street, New York, passes 
along the beautiful Hudson River to Albany, then the great 
four tracked railroad of the world conveys you to Utica 
(where the direct connections are made with the Utica & 
Black River R. R.; then the traveler can, if he desires pass 
over this popular route, reaching in a few hours the majestic 
St. Lawrence at Clayton, connecting with the steamers of 
the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company direct for 
Montreal), Syracuse, Rochester, Buffalo, or 

NIAGARA FALLS. 

The ticket office of the Grand Trunk R. R. and Riche- 
lieu and Ontario Navigation Company Royal Mail Line is 
"located at No. 4, International Hotel, and is presided over 
by Mrs. L. Barber, who will cheerfully give you any infor- 
mation desired. Trains leave the Falls every morning, Sun- 
day excepted, by Grand Trunk R. R. to Toronto, and arrive 
in time to connect with Mail Line for Montreal. Trains 
leave Niagara Falls every morning except Sunday, at 9:05 
a. m., via Central Hudson Branch for Lewiston, where con- 



12 

Vincent, the new steamer St. Lawrence, the handsomest 
and swiftest on the River, leaves for all landings among: 
the Islands. 

The train carrying through sleepers leaves New York at 
5:30 p. m., arriving at Cape Vincent at 9:30 a. m., and Al- 
exandria Bay at 11:30 a m.; giving tourists a delightful ride 
of twenty-five miles down the Islands to the Bay. Ample 
time is given at Richland for breakfast. Returning, the St. 
Lawrence leaves Alexandria Bay at 4:00 p. m., arriving at 
Cape Vincent at 6:00 p. m., and train leaves at 6:10 p. m., 
arriving in New York at 9:30 a. m. 

The depots and ferries of the New York, Ontario & 
Western Railway are located in New York at the foot of 
West 42nd Street and Harrison Street, from which points 
commodious and elegantly appointed ferry boats run to the 
passenger station at Weehawken, and in Brooklyn at the 
foot of Fulton, Brooklyn Annex. 

The route of the Ontario and Western, after leaving 
Weehawken, is west of the Palisades, through the counties 
of Bergen in New Jersey, and Rockland in New York, fol- 
lowing the fertile and romantic valley of the Hackensack. 
At Valley Cottage the road tunnels through the mountains, 
and for sixteen miles skirts the banks of the Hudson, 
through the Highlands, traversing all the historic and pic- 
turesque points along that world-famed stream. Then 
over the foot-hills of the Catskills, through the mountains 
of Central New York, and along the valleys of the Dela- 
ware, Neversink, Beaverkill and Chenango Rivers, with 
their lovely picturesque views of mountain, lake and river, 
to Lake Ontario, making one of the most beautiful routes 
across the Empire State. 



13 

The night express trains run every day, including Sunday. 
The Pullman buffet sleepers are of the latest models, and 
complete in all details pertaining to elegance of finish, 
comfort and safety. 

The City of Kingston, Ontario, is easily reached from 
Cape Vincent via Steamer Maud, which leaves after the 
arrival of train from New York, and returning leaves in the 
afternoon, connecting with train for the south. 

The New York Central & Hudson River R. R., leaving 
the Grand Central Depot, 42nd Street, New York, passes 
along the beautiful Hudson River to Albany, then the great 
four tracked railroad of the world conveys you to Utica 
(where the direct connections are made with the Utica & 
Black River R. R.; then the traveler can, if he desires pass 
over this popular route, reaching in a few hours the majestic 
St. Lawrence at Clayton, connecting with the steamers of 
the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company direct for 
Montreal), Syracuse, Rochester, Buffalo, or 

NIAGARA FALLS. 

The ticket office of the Grand Trunk R. R. and Riche- 
heu and Ontario Navigation Company Royal Mail Line is 
located at No. 4, International Hotel, and is presided over 
by Mrs. L. Barber, who will cheerfully give you any infor- 
mation desired. Trains leave the Falls every morning, Sun- 
day excepted, by Grand Trunk R. R. to Toronto, and arrive 
in time to connect with Mail Line for Montreal. Trains 
leave Niagara Falls every morning except Sunday, at 9:05 
a. m., via Central Hudson Branch for Lewiston, where con- 



14 



CLIFTON HOUSE, 

NIAGARA FALLS. 

FRONTING THE STATE AND CANADIAN RESERVATIONS. 



THE CLIFTON 

Is the ONLY Hotel from the apartments and verandahs of which there is 

A Full and Unobstructed View of the Palls, 



fact visitors should bear in mind. 



The view includes the Islands, Rapids and Adjacent Country 
for Miles. 



Niagara has the endorsement of the Medical and Sanitary 
authorities, for health, invigorating air and salubrity of 
dimate, at all seasons, and is delightfully cool during the 
Summer months. 

The Hotel is elegant in all features and apartments ; has 
apartments en suite, with every convenience and luxury, 
and the cuisine and service is in all particulars superior. 

Address, for all information, by mail or telegraph, 

GEORGE M. COLBORN, 

Niagara Falls, N. Y. 



15 
nections are made with the fast sailing side-wheel steamboat 

CHICORA, 

crossing the beautiful Lake Ontario and arriving in Toronto 
in time to connect with Richeheu and Ontario Naviga- 
tion Company Royal Mail Line for Kingston, Alexandria 
Bay, Thousand Islands and Rapids of the St. Lawrence 
River to Montreal. 

'' THANK GOD " NIAGARA FALLS IS 
FREE.— BORN AGAIN. 

From the first issue of this little volume up to the pres- 
ent I have labored to inform the pubUc regarding the many 
schemes and extortions at the Falls ; been the only cham- 
pion of fifty millions of people, and with my coat off and 
sleeves rolled up, worked for the passage of the bill to make 
Niagara Falls free. Now, that success has perched upon 
our banners, we propose to put the people of Niagara Falls 
upon the stool of repentance on their good behavior as it 
were for the season of 1885-6. After that time, should they 
merit kind treatment or praise I shall be most happy to say 
so. If, on the other hand, they^ deserve censure for any 
device or schemes to entrap the stranger or visitor, I shall 
ventilate it, and, as in the past, handle them without gloves. 

Hoping the dear public will sanction the charity I have 
displayed and post me regarding their treatment at the Falls 
the coming season, I am Respectfully Yours, 

E. F. Babbage, "Phat Boy," 
21 Chestnut Park Rochester, N. Y. 

N. B. — From the above request to my friends I received 
during 1885 as complaints, five letters. No. i contained 



the complaint of an abuse that does not exist at present. I 
was at the Falls June 2d and 3d, 1886, and know that the 
Select men of the village with the aid of the Superintendent 
of the Park for the State, (a most worthy official) have taken 
hold of and crushed out the above. As the above does not 
continue there is no need to mention it. No. 2 complaint 
was charges at a certain hotel. If I hear any more will ven- 
tilate it. No. 3 would not have been written if the parties 
had been located at the Clifton House. Nos. 4 and 5 were 
complaints regarding the Indian stores and curiosity shops, 
over which I have no control, and for which fact I am thank- 
ful, as there are so many of them good, bad, and indifferent, 
I have no doubt it would be just the same in any large city 
city where any branch of trade was carried on by the same 
number of people. Respectfully Yours, 

E. F. B. 

As many of the tourists leave Niagara Falls in the 
morning at 9:05 o'clock by rail to Lewiston, and connect 
with the Steamer Chicora, for Toronto. I will mention the 
places and points. 

LEWISTON. 

This village is situated at the head of navigation, on the 
Lower Niagara, and is a place of considerable importance. 
It lies three miles below Devil's Hole, and seven miles be- 
low the Falls. Lewiston is a pleasant, well built village, but 
its commercial prospects have been very much injured by 
the construction of the Erie and Welland Canals. 



17 

QUEENSTON 

is a small village situated nearly opposite to Lewiston, aiid 
contains about 350 inhabitants. It is associated in history 
with the gallant defence made by the British on the adjacent 
heights in the war of 181 2. The village is pleasantly situ- 
ated, but has suffered from the same causes that have re- 
tarded the growth of Lewiston. The river here becomes 
more tranquil, the shores less broken and wild, and the 
change in the scenery affords a pleasing transition from the 
sublime to the beautiful. 

BROCK'S MONUMENT. 

The monument stands on the Heights of Queenston, 
from whence the village derives its name. The present 
structure occupies the site of the former one, which was 
blown up by some miscreant on the 17th of April, 1840. 
The whole edifice is 185 feet high ; on the sub-base, which 
is 40 feet square and 30 feet high, are placed four lions, 
facing North, South, East and West ; the base of the pedes- 
tal is 21I feet square and 10 feet high; the pedestal itself is 
16 feet square and 10 feet high, surmounted by a heavy 
cornice, ornamented with lions' heads and wreaths in altro 
relievo. In ascending from the top of the pedestal to the 
top of the base of the shaft, the form changes from square 
to round. The shaft is a fluted column of free-stone, 75 feet 
high and 10 feet in diameter, on which stands a Corinthian 
capital 10 feet high, whereon is wrought, in reHef, a statue of 
the Goddess of War. On this capital is the dome 9 feet 
high, reached by 250 spiral steps from the base on the in- 
side. On the top of the dome is placed a colossal statue of 
General Brock. 



THE ROSSIN HOUS 

TORONTO 



n 



Remodeled and Refiirnistied. 



NEW PLUMBING THROUGHOUT. 

The Most Complete, Luxurious, and Liber- 
ally Managed Hotel in Ontario. 



Immunity from noxious gases and malaria guaranteed by 
the most perfect system of ventilation, traps and thorough 
plumbing known to sanitary science. 

MARK H. IRISH, 

HENRY J. NOLAN, Proprietor, 

Chief Clerk. 



21 



called York. Toronto bay is a beautiful inlet, separated 
from the main body of Lake Ontario, except at its entrance? 
by a long, narrow sandy beach. The South-Western ex- 
tremity is called Gibraltar Point. It is 165 miles from 
Kingston, 45 miles from Hamilton, and 50 miles from the 
falls of Niagara. The population in 1717 was 1,200 ; but 
at the present time it amounts to about 75,000. The city 
is laid out at right angles. Its chief public buildings are 
the cathedrals and churches, the Parhament House, Uni- 
versity of Toronto, Trinity College, Normal School, St. 
Michael's College, Osgoode Hall, St. Lawrence Hall, Me- 
chanics Institute, Provincial Lunatic Asylum, Post-Office, 
Exchange and City Schools. Its system of free pubUc schools 
is one of the most perfect and best conducted in America. 
Among the many pleasant drives around this city the travel- 
er should visit College Avenue and the Queen's Park. In 
this park is erected a statue of the Queen and a monument 
to commemorate the college youths who fell at Ridgeway 
defending the country from the attacks of the Fenians. 
The University of Toronto, a most magnificent building, is 
also situated in this park. The Parhament of Ontario and 
the principal law courts are held in this city. It is con- 
nected by the Grand Trunk Railway and steamboats from 
all points. The two largest hotels in Toronto are the 
Rossin House and the Queens Hotel. These hotels have 
every modern improvement and the prices are graduated 
according to the location of room. If carriages are needed 
while in the city Telephone No. 109, R. Bond's Livery, who 
has everything first class in the carriage line, " A i." 



22 

PORT HOPE 

is situated 65 miles from Toronto. A small stream, which 
here falls into the lake, has formed a valley, in which the 
town is located. The harbor at the mouth of this stream is 
shallow, but safe and commodious. Port Hope is a pretty 
town ; on the western side the hills rise gradually one above 
the other. The highest summit, called " Fort Orton," af- 
fords a fine prospect, and overlooks the country for a great 
distance. The village is incorporated ; population about 
5,114. A direct route to Rochester by the Steamer Norse- 
man leaves this port every morning, except on Sunday, call- 
ing at Port Hope and connecting with Grand Trunk train 
from Toronto every week day morning and arriving in Roch- 
ester the same afternoon. The Grand Summer Excursions 
of the Norseman from Rochester to Alexandria Bay leaving 
Rochester every Saturday evening and passing through the 
1,000 Island scenery of the St. Lawrence River arriving at 
Alexandria Bay in time for dinner, giving the passengers 
about five hours at the Bay and returning to Rochester 
early on Monday. I have advised many of my friends to 
make this trip, all of which have expressed themselves as 
delighted. 

COBOURG, 

seven miles below Port Hope, contains 6,000 inhabitants. 
It has seven churches, two banks, three grist mills, two 
founderies, and the largest cloth factory in the Province. 
It is also the seat of Victoria College and Theological 
Institute. Midway between Port Hope and Cobourg is 
" Duck Island," on which a light house is maintained by 
the government. 



23 

FOR THE BENEFIT OF ALL, 

we submit the following time-table — not forgetting to men- 
tion that steamboats are not infallible, but are governed by 
man, accompanied by steam, wind and water. If the boat 
is one hour late in starting from any given point, it is Hkely 
she will remain so, as I know of but one boat in the Hne 
that can beat or surpass schedule time. 

LEAVING EVERY DAY SUNDAYS EXCEPTED. 

Toronto (Sunday Ex- Morrisburg 12:05 p. m. 

cepted) 2:00 p.m. Chrysler's Farm 12:17 " 

Kingston ( Monday Aultsville 12:30 '' 

Excepted) 5:00 a.m. Farren's Point 12:40 " 



Clayton 6:00 

Alexandria Bay 7:00 

Brockville 9:30 

Prescott 10:30 

Galop Rapids 11:05 

Iroquois 11:35 

Narrowest Point 11:45 

Eapid Piatt 11:55 



Dickenson's Landing.... 12:55 

Long Sault 1:00 

Last of U. S. shore 1:15 

Cornwall 1:30 

Coteau Landing 4:00 

Cedar Rapid 4:30 

Indian Pilot 6:00 

Montreal 7:00 



We assume that we are now fairly entering on the ma- 
jestic stream on the Canadian side, having left Lake On- 
tario and entered the St. Lawrence River, our first landing 
will be at 

THE CITY OF KINGSTON, 

which has a population of 15,000, was founded in 1672, by 
Governor DeCourcelles, receiving the name of Fort Cata- 
raqui. Later, a massive stone fort was built by Count De 
Frontenac, and received his name. In 1762 the place was 
t aken by the British, who gave it its present name. As a 



24 

place of defense it stands next in strength to Quebec. The 
batteries of Fort Henry are calculated for the reception of 
numerous cannon and mortars of the largest calibre. These, 
together with neighboring martello towers, form a formid- 
able defense against any aggressive movement which might 
be directed against the city. These fortifications are seen 
to excellent advantage from the steamer soon after it leaves 
the dock. 

On the right is Garden Island; on the left, Cedar Island, 
and behind is Fort Henry. There is here, also, in view, the 
round stone towers referred to above. Near the middle of 
the river is Wolf, or Long Island, 21 miles long, and 7 
miles wide near the Western end. There is nothing either 
of romance or historical episode to weave into our story, 
concerning the inhabitants of this, the largest of the Thou- 
sand Island group. Suffice it to say, that the territory is a 
portion of the Dominion of Canada, and that the habits of 
civiHzed life characterize the people. Between one channel 
and the main land there is St. John's or Howe Island, of no 
mean proportions. 

Ordinarily, we have now spent about one hour on the 
steamer from Kingston, and come to the point in the chan- 
nel where we must diverge either for Gananoque or Clayton. 
We are bound for Clayton and the American channel of the 
St. Lawrence River. (For description of Gananoque and 
the Canadian channel, see Route of the Island Wanderer, 
old page 38.) As soon as the light-house on Burnt Island 
comes in view, we may be said to have fairly entered upon 
the real beauty of the " sacred river of America." Between 
here and Gananoque we pass many pretty little isles of six 
or eight acres. On the right is a range light, the boat of 



25 

•course, passing between the two. It is said that from the 
deck of the steamer, one hundred islands can be counted — 
in fact, the panorama is probably matchless on the globe. 
While the islands are so numerous both on the right and 
left, the*boat glides by without allo\^^ing the tourist to be 
distracted with the rapture of delight that is feasting his eyes. 
Some of these isles are scarcely more than barren rocks, 
while others are paradises of verdure. 

For the first three quarters of an hour after leaving Kings- 
ton, there is nothing especially worthy of note. Then we 
strike the cross-over channel. Now, the time is early morn- 
ing, the sun is quite bright, and the atmosphere is remark- 
ably clear. The scene is now attractive. Look ahead in 
the distance a Httle to the left, and you will behold the eagle 
tree. Hundreds have been deceived with the idea that it 
was an actual live eagle, spreading its wings and soaring 
aloft to a height that the imagination can scarcely reach. 
It is a delusion ; 'tis nothing but a tree, as its true features, 
or rather beautiful foliage has deceived the eye of the 
novice of this region. 

On the left is Grindstone Island. On it is an organized 
community. The inhabitants are farmers, and for the edu- 
cation of whose children a school is maintained. 

It may be well to state here that authorities (?) differ as 
to how many islands there really are. Some say fifteen 
hundred ; some eighteen hundred, and others carefully write, 
nearly two thousand. Life is too short for us to stop and 
count these natural beauties, and even the pilots have no 
desire to earn fame as statisticians by asserting the correct 
number. The " Phat Boy " has just issued the only correct 



24 

place of defense it stands next in strength to Quebec. The 
batteries of Fort Henry are calculated for the reception of 
numerous cannon and mortars of the largest calibre. These, 
together with neighboring martello towers, form a formid- 
able defense against any aggressive movement which might 
be directed against the city. These fortifications are seen 
to excellent advantage from the steamer soon after it leaves 
the dock. 

On the right is Garden Island; on the left, Cedar Island, 
and behind is Fort Henry. There is here, also, in view, the 
round stone towers referred to above. Near the middle of 
the river is Wolf, or Long Island, 21 miles long, and 7 
miles wide near the Western end. There is nothing either 
of romance or historical episode to weave into our story, 
concerning the inhabitants of this, the largest of the Thou- 
sand Island group. Suffice it to say, that the territory is a 
portion of the Dominion of Canada, and that the habits of 
civilized hfe characterize the people. Between one channel 
and the main land there is St. John's or Howe Island, of no 
mean proportions. 

Ordinarily, we have now spent about one hour on the 
steamer from Kingston, and come to the point in the chan- 
nel where we must diverge either for Gananoque or Clayton. 
We are bound for Clayton and the American channel of the 
St. Lawrence River. (For description of Gananoque and 
the Canadian channel, see Route of the Island Wanderer, 
old page 38.) As soon as the light-house on Burnt Island 
comes in view, we may be said to have fairly entered upon 
the real beauty of the " sacred river of America." Between 
here and Gananoque we pass many pretty little isles of six 
or eight acres. On the right is a range light, the boat of 



25 

•course, passing between the two. It is said that from the 
deck of the steamer, one hundred islands can be counted — 
in fact, the panorama is probably matchless on the globe. 
While the islands are so numerous both on the right and 
left, theiDoat glides by without allowing the tourist to be 
distracted with the rapture of delight that is feasting his eyes. 
Some of these isles are scarcely more than barren rocks, 
while others are paradises of verdure. 

For the first three quarters of an hour after leaving Kings- 
ton, there is nothing especially worthy of note. Then we 
strike the cross-over channel Now, the time is early morn- 
ing, the sun is quite bright, and the atmosphere is remark- 
ably clear. The scene is now attractive. Look ahead in 
the distance a Httle to the left, and you will behold the eagle 
tree. Hundreds have been deceived with the idea that it 
was an actual live eagle, spreading its wings and soaring 
aloft to a height that the imagination can scarcely reach. 
It is a delusion ; 'tis nothing but a tree, as its true features, 
or rather beautiful foliage has deceived the eye of the 
novice of this region. 

On the left is Grindstone Island. On it is an organized 
community. The inhabitants are farmers, and for the edu- 
cation of whose children a school is maintained. 

It may be well to state here that authorities (?) differ as 
to how many islands there really are. Some say fifteen 
hundred ; some eighteen hundred, and others carefully write, 
nearly two thousand. Life is too short for us to stop and 
count these natural beauties, and even the pilots have no 
desire to earn fame as statisticians by asserting the correct 
number. The " That Boy " has just issued the only correct 



2 6 

map of the St. Lawrence River, published, which will not 
be misleading to the student of minute details. But we 
digress. 

"DO YOU GO OUT FISHING?" 

Well not often, you see this ponderous body of nwne does 
not fit the average fishing boat. My fears are not all bound 
up in that one fact, nor in the satisfaction that if the boat 
should upset that I would not sink, but the fear that is in- 
dehbly printed upon my mind, that, as I would float, and 
being so large, some steamboat captain or pilot would take 
me for an island, lay alongside and let the passengers off 
for a little pic-nic or an hour's pleasure. Think of it. 

"NOT A GEORGE WASH." 

He had told several very improbable stories bordering 
upon the Eli Perkins order and then remarked to a friend 
that he could not tell a He. But the friend replied, that he 
could the moment he heard it, and to the best of his judg- 
ment he had told several. 

Names of Islands that are numbered on the Phat Boy's 
Birdseye Chart of the St. Lawrence, because the space would 
not permit printing the names in full : 



53- 


Robinson, 


60. 


Devil's Oven, 


54- 


Calumet, 


61. 


Cherry, 


56. 


Seven, 


6ii. 


Southgate, R. 


57- 


Pratt, 


62. 


Pullman, 


58. 


Wau Win net. 


63. 


Nobby, 


59- 


Cuba, 


64. 


Welcome, 



27 



65. 


Friendly, 


109. 


Rattle Snake, 


66. 


Florence, 


III. 


Round, 


67. 


Linlith Gow,late Maud 


,TI2. 


Poverty, 


68. 


Imperial, 


114. 


Hemlock, 


7o. 


Resort, 


lis- 


Snipe, 


71- 


Deshler, 


116. 


Three Brothers, 


72. 


Kipp, 


117. 


Half Way, 


73- 


Terry, 


137- 


Brush, 


75- 


Judge Donahue, 


139- 


Flat, 


79- 


Proctor, 


141. 


Round Top, 


8o. 


Pike, 


142. 


Indian Chief, 


8i. 


Idlewild, 


U3- 


Pine Tree, 


82. 


Little Lehigh, 


144. 


Middle, 


83- 


Sport, 


145- 


Big, 


84. 

85- 


y Summer Land Group, 


146. 

' 147- 


Shoemakers, 
Bill Berry, 


86. 


Arcada, 


148. 


Raspberry, 


88. 


Schooner, 


149. 


Bush, 


94. 


Snake, 


150- 


Coles and Smith 


95- 


Float, 


151- 


H. A. Fields, 


96. 


Milk, 


160. 


Melville, 


97- 


Sugar, 


163. 


Dixon, 


100. 


Wallace, 


164. 


McGraw, 


lOI. 


Walton Lotis' Land, 


165. 


Sears, 


102. 


Deer, 


166. 


Benedict, 


107. 


Hoopers, 


167. 


Ruy craft, 


108. 


Shanter, 


169. 


Deniston. 



Having already intimated that there are other routes 
which lead to the point in the river which we have now 
reached, we return westward to bring another party through 
the American channel. 



28 



YOU KNOW HER. 

She is one of the strong minded of the female sex, and 
generally has her own way in everything. At any rate she 
stands re^dy at any and all times to combat with any one 
of the lords of creation, or otherwise, who may dispute her 
sway. We prefer your imagination to fill in as a descrip- 
tion, because it would be next to an impossibility for me to. 
She has all the requisites : the thin, tall figure, the hatchet 
face, sharp nose, wears glasses, and always carries an um- 
brella. About one each day will pass down this route in 
Summer, except when an Eastern or Western Excursion 
€omes ; then it will be hard to select those who are not of 
her kind. The first object that strikes the eye is our manly 
figure. After looking it well over, she remembers that fat 
people are proverbially jolly and good natured, so she breaks 
into conversation, and about the first question she asks is : 
" Were you always as large as you are now ?" " Oh I Yes. 
I was born this size." The answer causes her to discover 
she has left out the word " proportion." So she apologizes, 
smiles for the first time, and we are friends for the trip. 

CLAYTON 

is in the American channel. In the distant front, just be- 
fore landing, we have a magnificent view of Prospect Park 
and hill, a delightful spot for recreation and pleasure. No 
better view can be had of the islands and surrounding 
country than from the eminence of the hill. Clayton is our 
first stopping place. It is a village that derives its impor- 
tance to tourists as being the terminus of the Utica and 
Black River Railroad, and here it is where passengers from 



29 

the East generally get their first glimpse of the St. Law- 
rence. There are three good hotels, the Hubbard, Walton 
and The West End Hotels, kept by as genial landlords as 
ever lived, and from the town many fishing parties go out 
daily. The steaaier J. F. Maynard runs from this port in 
connection with the above named railroads for Alexandria 
Bay and other landing places en route. Opposite Clayton, 
on the left as we proceed down the river, is Governor Island, 
owned by Hon. Thomas. G. Alvord, of Syracuse. Next to 
Gov. Alvord's Isle on left is Calumet, five acres, owned by 
Chas. G. Emery, of Old Judge cigarette and tobacco fame, 
who has lavishly expended a large amount of money for 
comfort. His villa and apartments are quite striking, hav- 
ing i,ooo feet of dockage and a stone wall all around the 
island, 4,300 feet — the only island having an elevation of 
35 feet and a perfect soil, all productive. He purchased 
the steam yacht Calumet, said to be the fastest yacht on the 
river. The next island on the left, about 200 yards distant,, 
is Powder Horn. The origin of this "euphonious" name 
has not been handed down by tradition. On the right is 
Washington Island ; on the left, nearly opposite, is Bluff 
Island, and behind which is Robin's Island. Next, on the 
right, over two miles from Clayton, is 

ROUND ISLAND 

and park. This is the property of the Baptist Association, 
and every year people of this persuasion in large numbers 
gather for religious worship and recreation. There is a 
temperance hotel, fitted with the modern appointments, for 
the accommodation of 300 guests, named the Round Island 
House. The docks are in excellent condition, and the fish- 



30 

ing boats are favorites. On the left is Little Round Island, 
and " Hog's Back." We have now several cottages in 
Yiew ; the one painted dark brown is owned by Mr. Har- 
bodle. On the point is Ethelridge cottage, and many 
others not known to me, as they spring up as quickly as 
mushrooms do in an open field. 

Leaving Round Island, and looking in the distant front, 
we have a view of the Thousand Island Park. About one 
mile from Round Island, on the right, is Watch Island or 
^' Indolence," owned by S. T. Skinner. On the left are 
Bluff, Maple and Hemlock, the three pretty islands fronting 
the foot of Grindstone Island. On Hemlock is the CHff 
House, owned by Mr. Garrison, of Syracuse. About five 
minutes after leaving Round Island, we come in sight of 
Hub Island and House, burned in March, 1884, which lie 
on the left ; Grinnell's Island and House ; Otsego Camp is 
also on the left. On the right is Fisher's landing, Robinson's 
island, owned by Eugene Robinson, New York banker and 
broker (he broke Drew), Johnson's Light, Washburn Island 
and Frederick Island. Mr. Johnson, the original light- 
house keeper, and after whom the island is named, was the 
man who burned the Robert Peel, the EngHsh vessel, in 
retaliation for sending the Carolina over Niagara Falls. 

Just before landing at Thousand Island Park, upper end 
of Well's Island, now called Wellesley Island, is Twin Island, 
owned by J. L. Huntington. On the left, and in connec- 
tion with the Thousand Island Park, is tlie bath house, in a 
dilapidated condition, where the Methodists can get bap- 
tism, a la Bob Ingersoll, with soap. Said to be good for 
this world, if not hereafter, ^^'e now land at 



31 

THOUSAND ISLAND PARK. 

The boat stops at the Western End of Wells Island, at a 
fine wharf, and close to a large number of handsome cot- 
tages. You can tell what the place is the moment you 
approach it. There is no mistaking a Methodist Summer 
Camp, find it where you will. It is always neat and clean 
and orderly. This is the Thousand Island Park, a Metho- 
dist resort, opened in 1873. Although the scenery is some- 
what marred by the great number of solemn-faced clergy- 
men strolling about the grounds, it is still one of the most 
beautiful spots to be found among the islands. Camp- 
meetings are held here ; also Sunday-school and temperance 
and educational conventions, and other meetings all through 
the summer. A large and spacious hotel, completed, was 
opened July loth, 1883. The name was originally Thous- 
and Island Camp Ground, but was changed in 1878 to its 
present name. 

Again on our way, the first house on the left is owned by 
Harlow J. Remington, Ihon, whose fame and fortune is in 
rifles. Next on the left is Wellesley House and beautiful 
cottage. On the right, handsome villas line the shore of 
the island. About half a mile from Wellesley House is 
Jolly Oak Point, with its four cottages, two owned by the 
Norton brothers, a third by Dr. Ferguson, and the fourth 
by Hon. W. W. Butterfield, of Redwood. From here to 
Lookout Point is about half a mile ; and next is Rood's 
place, with a fine dock and good accommodations for tour- 
ists. About two hundred yards below is Peel's dock, where 
the boat Robert Peel was burned in 1837. This dock was 
rebuilt in 1884. Robin's cottage, 100 feet to the left ; a 



32 

little below on the right is the farm of Captain Jack ; you 
can see the old saw mill in a dilapidated condition on the 
bank. Opposite on the left is the celebrated Limburger 
cheese factory. (Post mortem examinations held here 
weekly.) (This " goak" would take better if you was just 
introduced to Limburger for the first time.) On the right 
is CoUins' dock ; below a few feet is Calumet Island and 
cottage, owned by Rev. Henry G. Waite, of Ilion, N. Y. 
On the right hes the remains of old Captain Jack's boat, 
gone to rest. * * * Here you are expected to drop a 
tear. Brown's Bay on the left and Swan Bay on the right. 
The next island on the right is owned by Mr. Moffet, of 
Watertown, N. Y. Passing the bays, we come on the right 
to Central Park, formerly Grinnell's Point and parade 
ground, purchased by parties and laid out for a park. Sev- 
eral large and beautiful cottages were built last season and 
many contemplated for this season. Foot of Central Park 
is Page Point, a former wood station for the N. T. Co.'s 
line of steamers. On the right is 

POINT VIVIAN. 

Point Vivian is situated on the main shore of the St. 
Lawrence River, about 2J miles from Alexandria Bay. It 
was formerly owned by Capt. W. H. Houghton, and was 
purchased by Messrs. Geo. Ivers, John J. Kinney, Isaac A. 
Wood, Dr. L. E. Jones, R. Barnes, Rezot Tozer and E. 
Hungerford, in the fall of 1877 (all of Evans Mills, N. Y.) 
They had it surveyed into forty building lots, with parks, 
avenues and streets. A magnificent dock was built 200 
feet long, and any boat from a skift' to an ocean steamer 
can land here. 



33 

Point Vivian is one of the pleasantest resorts on the 
river; here every one throws oif all business cares, sitting 
under the wide spreading branches of the fragrant pine, 
watching sail and steam crafts passing up or down this 
beautiful queen of rivers. It is situated in what is known 
as the narrows and is noted for its fine fishing grounds. 
The boss fisherman on the point is Tozer. He appears to 
have a charm (we don't know where, but we know he has 
one), and when he launches his barque the fish swarm 
around and just ask to be '^ tuk in," and are always took. 

The following named persons together with the original 
purchasers have built cottages here : 

R. Rodenhurst, Theresa, N. Y. 
Mrs. Chadwick, Theresa, N. Y. 
C. Allen, Theresa, N. Y. 
Sidney Cooper, Watertown, N. Y. 
C. Young, Syracuse, N. Y.. 
L. Sharon, Sterlingville, N. Y. 
Mr. Aldrich, Sterlingville, N. Y. 
M. Horton, Watertown, N. Y. 
Taylor, Watertown, N. Y. 
W. S. Cooper, Evans Mills. 
E. O. Hungerford, Evans Mills. 
A. M. Cook, Evans Mills. 
C. Briant, Evans Mills. 
E. Hungerford, Evans Mills. 
Whitney & Kinney, Gouverneur. 
L. Smith, Gouverneur. 

Several gentlemen from Watertown have purchased a 
number of lots adjoining and have been incorporated with 



34 

the point. The management intends to add some valuable 
improvements the coming season, grading the streets and 
avenues, building a large ice house, putting up wind mill, 
&c. There are a few more desirable lots for sale on this 
point, those contemplating building on the river would do 
well to visit this famous resort. Connected with this point is 

LONG POINT, 

owned by Mr. Curtis of Cleveland, Ohio. He has erected a 
nice cottage thereon, where he spends his summer. Curtis 
is a "prince of good fellows," and the pointers reckon on 
him as one of 'em. 

The officers are : 

W. S. Cooper, President. 

Sidney Cooper, R. Rodenhurst, John J. Kinney, Trus- 
tees. 

W. M. Comstock, Secretary. 

Opposite Point Vivian on the left is Island Royal, owned 
by Royal E. Deane, of New York, firm of Bramall, Deane 
& Co. Mr. Deane is a very enthusiastic lover of the scenery 
as well as the hunting and fishing in this vicinity, coming to 
this, his summer home, quite early in the spring, and often 
remaining until winter fairly sets in, for no where else can 
he get such a variety of fish and game and have the sur- 
roundings so agreeable. 

After leaving point Vivian, on the right, is Curtis Point 
and cottage. The next is Alleghaney Point, owned by J. 
S. Laney, of Pittsburg, Pa. The fence was built to keep 
the children from faUing into the river. Next on the right 
is Keppler Point, Beula Vista Lodge, owned by F. A. Bos- 
worth, of Milwaukee, Wis. He is an invalid, and has not 



35 

been home for ten years, says he will not return home until 
he can walk. I am pleased to say he told a friend of mine 
that his stay of three months here was of more benefit to 
him than a tour through Europe. He died in 1885. Cen- 
tennial Isle is owned by Mr. Sissons, of Watertown, N. Y. 
Comfort, in close proximity is owned by A. S Clark, of the 
Chicago, 111., Board of Trade. His is the largest and finest 
cottage of the group. Beyond is Hills Island, also Devil's 
Rock and Oven. This gentleman has expended a large 
amount of money in building a stone wall around the same, 
and in many ways beautifying the surroundings. On the 
left is Winslow Point and Seven Isles. Beyond is Louisiana 
Point owned by Judge La Batte, of New Orleans. Next on 
the right is Warner's Isle, very much on the dilapidated or- 
der. On the right is Cuba Isle, owned by W. F. Storey, of 
Buffalo, N. Y. A little further on is Edgewood Park, owned 
by a Cleveland Stock Company, who contemplate many 
changes the coming season, and Edgewood Cottage, owned 
by G. C. Martin of Watertown, N. Y. Next on the right is 
Cherry Isle, upon which are erected several cottages, one is 
owned by Rev. George Rockwell, of Fulton, N. Y., and oc- 
cupied by Mr. Easton and family, of Brooklyn, N. Y.; he 
was the first pastor of the Reformed Church of Alexandria 
Bay. The two large cottages are owned by A. B. Pullman,, 
and G. B. Marsh, of Chicago, III, — named Ingleside and 
Melrose Lodge. Here the Hon. John A. Logan and wife 
were entertained for several days in 1885. Opposite on the 
left is Pullman, Nobby, Friendly, Rye, Welcome, Florence, 
Imperial and Linlith Gow. This group may be seen in the 
order given, beyond is Westminster Park, Hart's Island 
Fairy Land and Dishler. We now shoot into Alexandria 
Bay. 



3^ 

Cherry Island is owned by Rev. George Rockwell and 
occupied by Mr. J. T. Easton, of Brooklyn, N. Y. Next 
island on left, Devil's Rock and Oven; a little be- 
yond is Cuba, owned by W. S. Story, of Buffalo ; a 
little above on the left is Wau Winnet, owned by Mr. 
Hill, of Chicago, 111. Next, on the left, we pass very 
close to Warner's Isle (a little dilapidated). The next 
above, about three hundred feet, is Comfort Isle, 
owned by A. E. Clark, of the Chicago Produce Exchange. 
Neh-Mahbin joins Comfort by a bridge. On the right is 
Louisiana Point, owned by Judge La Batte, of New 
Orleans, La., who died about one year ago. A little above, 
on the left, is Keepler Point and cottage ; a little above is 
Brown's Bay ; a little above, on the left, Alleghany Point 
and cottage, owned by Mr. Lahney, of Pittsburg, Pa. ; a 
little above, on the left, is Curtis Point and cottage, owned 
by Mr. Curtis, of Cleveland, Ohio. A bridge connects him 
with ex-Mayor Rose's Island, who has just built a very 
handsome cottage and dock. Next on the left is Point 
Vivian ; beyond is Brown's cottage; opposite, on the right, 
is Island Royal, owned by Royal E. Deane, of New York. 
The next island has always been a favorite place for camp- 
ers. Nothing right or left for about one mile. We then 
arrive at Central Park, which has very many beautiful cot- 
tages and hotel. Island head of Central Park is owned by 
Mr. Mofifatt, of Watertown ; opposite, on the right, is Palisa 
de Point and handsome cottage — a great point for campers. 
After leaving the Bay, on the left is a cottage owned by 
Mr. Webb. A little beyond, on the left, is Capt. Jack's 
farm-house and old mill ; opposite is Limburger cheese 
factory (we do not get close enough to interfere with your 



39 

sense of smell ; keep your seat). Opposite is a brown cot- 
tage and bridge ; a little farther on is a farm and house ; on 
the right is Lookout Point and cottage. The barns look 
as if some thrifty and prosperous farmer resided there. 
Just beyond is Jolly Oaks and its four cottages ; Sans Souci 
and others, with camping parties, line the shore until we 
come to Wellsley House ; on the left is Fisher's Landing, 
Cedar, Hemlock and Robinson's Island, on the left beyond 
which is Johnson's light and cottage ; a little beyond is 
Thousand Island Park, with its magnificent hotel, hundreds 
of cottages boats and boat-houses. This is run by the 
Methodists. In the distance front, on the left, is Round 
Island Hotel, and splendid villas line the banks all round 
the island, which is owned by the Baptist's Association. In 
the distance is Clayton, in front of which is Gouverner's 
Island, owned by Gov. Alvord, and Calumet, owned by Mr. 
Emery, of Old Judge cigarrette fame. On the left is Gren- 
nell and Twin Island. The steamer stops at Thousand 
Island Park to take what is generally considered half the 
passengers which constitutes her load. Again, on our way 
we pass around the head of Wells Island, and have a view 
on the right of the finest avenue in the Park, a long line of 
boat-houses, and a number of steam yachts, sail and fishing 
boats, windmills, etc., etc. Beyond, on the right, is Hem- 
lock Island and Hotel, owned by Mr. Garrison, of Syra- 
cuse. On the left is Grennell's Island and house, where 
the boat stops for passengers; beyond, on the right, is 
Otsego Point and cottages. We next pass two cottages, 
after which Picton Isle. Beyond is Eel Bay ; on the left, 
beneath the brow of the hill, is where the American Canoe 
Club holds in annual convention. On Grindstone Island, 



40 

which is in Jefferson County, N. Y., there are 50c inhabi- 
tants on the island, all Republicans. They, however, all 
voted the Democratic ticket Presidential year, which elected 
Cleveland. After leaving Grindstone Island we cross the 
boundary line between the United States and Canada, after 
which we arrive at many very pretty islands, on the right as 
well as on the left. 

AMONG THE ISLANDS. 

It must not be supposed that these hundreds of Islands 
are all occupied and have cottages on them, or laid out 
with walks and fountains. For every island that has a 
house on it there are perhaps twenty that have none. The 
number of houses are increasing every year, and I think 
that in time nearly every island will be occupied in the 
Canadian channel as they are in the American. 

On the left is Darling's dock, the famous wood station. 
We have as yet never seeen the " Darling," although the 
dock is always visible. It may be she is busy in the pantry 
washing dishes. 

GANANOQUE. 

Here the captam announces a stay of twenty-five minutes 
for refreshments, remarking also that it takes twelve 
minutes to walk up town and twelve minutes back, with the 
remainder for refresh, which seems to my mind a little too 
fresh. Leaving Gananoque on time, we will return by the 
Canadian channel, whicli is more wild and picturesque, as 
far as scenery is concerned, although not one island or 
point is inhabited here to ten in the American channel. 



41 

On the right is Kipp Island. Passing many beautiful 
islands and lighthouse, we arrive at Halstead's Bay — after 
passing which the islands come thick and fast, all sizes and 
shapes, from a little one for a cent to those done up in 
bunches like asparagus, and you get a bunch for five. We 
soon arrive at Lind Light, on the right, and are coming to 
the Fiddler's Elbow: Lay this book aside at this point and 
feast the eye, for no one could do the subject of a descrip- 
tion justice. We soon emerge from our land, or island- 
locked, channel, and approach Darhng's dock. The dock 
is visible, but we have never seen the darling — after 
which comes Echo Point, where you can hear as many 
echoes as you pay cents fare. Passing a farm house on 
the right, we soon arrive on the left to Rockport ; here 
you will observe we have but two seasons of the year. Ice 
and Rock ; this is the rocky season. Turning to the right, 
we make direct for Westminster Park. Looking backward 
over the left shoulder, you will have a view of Idlewild and 
Sport Islands, owned by the Packers, of Pennsylvania. A 
better view of those islands may be obtained after leaving 
Westminster Park for Alexandria Bay. After passing the 
point, Hayden's Island, Fairyland comes in view. The lit 
tie island, with cottage, is owned by Mr. Hasbrock, of 
Ogdensburg, N. Y., called Pike Island. The next on the 
right is St. John's Island, owned by Judge Donahue, of 
New York. The next on the right is Manhattan group,, 
owned by Judge Spencer and Hasbrock, of New York. A 
wooden bridge joins them together. This is the first island 
inhabited for recreation, and was bought by Seth Green, the 
fish culturist of New York State ; on the left is Long Beach,, 



42 

Anthony's "Point, Bonnie Castle, on the right is Dishler and 
Hart's Island. We next arrive at Alexandria Bay, from 
whence we started most four hours ago. 

WHAT AND WHO MADE ALEXANDRIA 
BAY. 

In 1872, President Grant visited this delightful spot, a 
guest of R. M. Pullman, of Palace car fame, Pullman 
Island, There was at that time inadequate hotel accom- 
modations, for the tourist as well as the visitor who had 
been drawn to this the most beautiful natural scenery in the 
world. Messrs. Cornwall and Walton of Alexandria Bay, 
with their usual display of sense and sagacity, as well as 
business tact for which they have always been commended, 
offered to give the best site on the St. Lawrence to any man 
who would erect upon it, a first-class summer hotel. Mr. 
O. G. Staples, of Watertown, N. Y., hearing of this offer 
came, he saw, and how he conquered you shall know as we 
proceed with our narrative. Well, he concluded to father 
the scheme, securing a man with money, a Mr. Nott, of 
Syracuse, the ground, or rock rather, was broken January 
14th, 1873, and the Thousand Island House was completed 
and opened July 17th, 1873, just six months from the day 
of starting. Rumor says that although their money gave 
out a little above the first story Staples' indomitable will saw 
it completed and furnished, ready to receive guests, just as 
soon and as well as if he had been a millionaire. During 
the next two years of the partnership of Staples and Nott, 
everything did not go as smooth as a marriage bell, but 
still they went, and in the end Staples had the money and 
hotel. (I hope the reader if he knows Staples will not be 



43 

so unkind as to accuse him of parting with all his experience 
and make the pun that he took the money and Nott the 
experience.) Staples bought out Nott, and I believe, paid 
him what, was agreed, and he run the hotel until April 
15th, 1883, when Mr. R. H. Southgate, (the man of many 
hotels, too numerous to mention here), bought him out. 
The many changes that have been made, and those con- 
templated, and when completed, will make this the mecca 
of summer resort watering places, the Venice of America. 
I desire to say right here that I hope Mr. Southgate will 
not lose sight of what has in the past made the Bay popular 
as a resort. I hke to see the standard of visitors raised as 
well as the prices. I would Hke it to be the place for fish 
as well as those who love the piscatorial art No dust, no 
dampness, no malaria or hay fever, no mosquitoes, light, dry 
air, cool and bracing. Thermometer never over 80 or be- 
low 50 in July and August, and one can enjoy what is denied 
them almost everywhere else, a good nine hours of cool re- 
freshing sleep under a blanket. Those troubled with pul- 
monary complaints will find great relief here. Steamers, 
steam yachts and saiHng vessels abound, everything to ani- 
mate the scene and enhance the pleasure of visitors is done. 
Fishing, fishing boats, bathing, etc., as well as fish abounds, 
and we say here, if you have never been to the Bay come, 
if you have been come and see it under the new reign of 
Mr. Charles P. Clemes, and I know you will be pleased. 

" YES ! A GREAS-Y STATUE." 

" How much do you weigh ?" Well, I am asked that 
question many times every day, and as I am not sensitive 
will say my weight is three hundred and thirty pounds (in 



44 

the shade). The reason why I say the shade is because 
there has never been raised a mathematician with the ability 
to compute the weight of a grease spot, and were I compelled 
to remain in the sun very long would make one, and do not 
care to mislead people into an error. The fat of this land 
is about as unequally distributed as the wealth. Those who 
ain't got it want it ; those who have it, have too much. I 
am therefore a Vanderbilt in grease — have a corner in lard, 
as it were. 

'A LITTLE ONE ON PERKINS." 

Two gentlemen at the Thousand Island House one 
day were talking, when the subject of truth was approached, 
and one of them who stammered, said, " There are t-t-three 
great li-Hars i i-in America." The friend said, " Who are 
they ?" 0-o-one of t-t-them i i-is T-T-Tom Oc-Oc-Ochil- 
tree of Ta-Ta-Texas, and th-th-the other two is E-E-Eli 
Perkins. 

VISITORS AT THE i,ooo ISLANDS, 

who desire to vist Montreal and return by boat (their time 
being Hmited), the following information will be of interest. 
All passengers arrive in Montreal between six and seven 
o'clock p. m., as there is little to see at night and very little 
time to see it in. The boat leaves her dock, Canal Basin to 
return, every morning at 9 o'clock, except Sunday. You can 
remain in Montreal until the 12 M., train for Lachine from 
the G. T. R. Station, (by taking that train, fare 35 cents, you 
will arrive at Lachine in time to take the boat and enjoy your 
dmner while passing through Lake St. Louis.) Should you 
desire to prolong your stay, remain in Montreal until the 5 



45 

p. m. train leaves same depot for Coteau Landing. A car- 
riage in waiting will take you to the boat, fare from Mon- 
treal, including carriage $1.25. You will take passage 
from there at seven o'clock, and have your supper on board 
of boat while passing through Lake St. Francis. As it 
takes the boat sixteen hours longer to come back, than to 
go down (reason they are compelled to pass through the 
Lachine, Bohomoise and Cornwall canals, which con- 
sumes the time). All passengers arrive at Alexandria Bay, 
every day, between one and two o'clock p. m., except on 
Monday. 

WHAT I KNOW ABOUT CATCHING FISH. 

During the summer of 1885 I was at the Thousand Is- 
land House, Alexandria Bay, N. Y., and took note of some 
of the best catches of fish, which with pleasure I give space 
here, that my friends may see, and those who may have 
heard that there is no good fishing at the Bay, a chance to 
judge. Let me first say that anybody can catch fish of the 
following varieties anywhere in the St. Lawrence River : 
Rock Bass, Black Bass, Perch, Pike, Pickerel and Musca- 
longe. I have caught, off the dock at the Bay, in less than 
two hours, a Black Bass weighing three and one half pounds 
and a Pickerel weighing over six pounds. 

THE FISH CATCH OF 1885. 

The fishing season commenced early and many prominent 
in the piscatorial art were early at the Bay and secured good 
catches. A party of gentlemen, among them being Mr. 
A. Ehrich of New York, caught, within a week, four Mus- 



46 

calonge weighing, respectively, i8, 21, 29 and 30 pounds. 
This catch was not beaten during the season, therefore Mr. 
Erich will receive the medal for the best catch of Musca- 
longe for the season of 1885. 

Mr. B. E. Lockwood, Buckingham Lockwood, and his 
brother, of Nor walk, Conn, caught, June 27 th, fifty Black 
Bass, eighteen weighing over 2 pounds each. 

Mr. J. T. Easton, of New York, caught, June 28th, a 
Muscalonge weighing 2o|- pounds. 

Mrs. E. A. Madden caught, July 6th, eleven Black Bass, 
one weighing three pounds ten ounces, and two over two 
pounds ; also two large Pickerel, 

Mrs. W. A. Frazer caught fifty fish July nth, 20 Black 
Bass, weighing from one to three pounds. 

Little Julian Madden caught a Pickerel weighing three 
pounds off Thousand Island House dock. 

Mr. L. G. Cairns, of Gainesville, Texas, caught thirteen 
Pickerel weighing from 3 to 8 pounds. 

Miss Brown of New York, caught, in two hours, seven 
Black Bass and Pickerel weighing from 2-J- to 6 pounds. 

Miss Jessie Schwardt, of New York, caught several 
Pickerel weighing from 7 to 10 pounds ; also a Black Bass 
2^ pounds. 

Hon. R. B. Martine, District Attorney of New York, 
came home one evening after a day's sport bringing Black 
Bass over 2 pounds, some very large Pickerel and an Eel. 

Mr. Bruce Price and wife, of New York, two experts at 
fishing, never came home witliout a very handsome catch. 
He is credited with catching the largest framed Black Bass 



47 

ever seen at the Bay. Had he been as fat as the editor of 
this volume, would have weighed — well, you guess, 

Mr. A. Wallack and wife of New York, caught several 
good catches of fish, but one day were not one quarter of a 
mile from the hotel, nor gone over two hours, and returned 
with ten Pickerel weighing from 3 to 8 pounds. 

Mr. Robert G. McCord and wife, of New York, and party, 
caught, August nth, twenty-three Black Bass weighing 
from I to 3 pounds. Mrs. McCord caught a Black Bass 
weighing nearly 4 pounds. 

Mrs. Frazer and Mrs. Madden caught, August 7 th, 
twenty-two Black Bass. 

Mr. H. R. Clark, wife, and Mr. Post formed a party to 
go up the Reideau Canal in Canada as the spots for good 
sport at the Bay had become monotonous. They returned 
after eight days, and during a conversation with me said 
they would rather catch six one pound Black Bass at Alex- 
andra Bay, with all its pleasant surroundings, than catch 
one hundred weighing 6 pounds each in any other waters 
on earth. 

G. W. Morse, of Boston, Mass., caught a Pickerel weigh- 
ing io-|- pounds. 

Hon. Judge Troy and wife, of Brooklyn, and party, caught 
in one day forty fish — Black Bass, Pike and Pickerel. The 
judge always takes his rifle along, and is sure to bring home 
some rare specimen of the feathered tribe to place in his 
collection at home. They say he is no amateur as a taxi- 
dermist. 

Mr. J. A. Ehrich, of Ehrich Bros., New York, with a party 
of friends, on August 12th, caught one hundred and twenty- 
four Black Bass weighing from i J to 4 pounds each. 



Mr. A. Isaacs, wife, and Miss Cohen have never failed to 
bring in a good catch of Pickerel or Black Bass. 

Judge Smith, R. G. McCord, C. M. Stone, Dr. W. C. 
Wheeler and party, of New York, August 15th, caught 325 
Black Bass. Judge Smith caught the best or largest Black 
Bass (Oswego), 4J pounds. 

Mr. William White and wife. Fort Plain, N. Y., Mr. J. 
Lowery and wife and Mr. Isaacs and friends formed a party 
August 17th. The catch included fifteen Pickerel weighing 
from 4 to 9 pounds and ten Black Bass weighing from i to 
3 pounds. 

Mr. Proctor and the Smger family caught ten Pickerel, 
the largest weighmg 8J pounds, several Black Bass, and the 
largest Eel of the season. 

Mr. George White, a fisherman, caught a Muscalonge, 
August 19th, weighing 10 pounds. 

Mrs. L. H. Jauvrn and Miss Marie, of New York, caught 
two very large Pickerel and three Black Bass. 

Mr. Philip Tillinghast, Mr. Julian Nathan and Mr. 
Charles J. Henry, of New York, caught, in sight of the 
Thousand Island House, what proved to be the largest 
Black Bass of the season. Mr. Tillinghast was the lucky 
one, and the fish weighed 4 pounds 2 ounces. Mr. Nathan 
came next with an Oswego Black Bass weighing 3J pounds. 
Mr. Tillinghast of the Miles Building, New- York, takes the 
gold medal for the largest Black Bass caught for the season 
of 1885. 

Mr. and Mrs. W. S. Neilson, of New York, caught in one 
day twenty-three Black Bass weighing from ij^to 3 J pounds 
each. 



49 

F. G. Ringold and Mr. W. C. Compton, of Cincinnati, 
Ohio, who have been visitors at the Bay for the past thirty 
years, said to me last year that they were not troubled with 
the small shad this year as the year previous ; and the fish- 
ing must now improve since the restrictions were put upon 
nets, etc., by the Angler's Association. 

Mr. H. R. Clark of New York, the most enthusiastic 
fisherman in these parts, has captured and destroyed in 1885 
over ninety nets. Mr. Clark caught the largest fish ever 
landed with an 8-ounce rod on a single snell. The fish was 
a Sturgeon over 5 feet long, and weighed 78 pounds. He 
was one hour and five minutes landing him, which was 
great sport for Clark. 

Mr. H. Merrell, of Montreal (firm of W. H. Merrell & 
Co.), caught at Hamilton's Island, 84 pounds of Pike and 
Pickerel, and four Bass weighing 4 lbs. each ; fourteen Pike 
weighed from 4 to 8 lbs. each. Mr. Merrell caught last 
season the largest Wall Eyed Pike ever taken from the St. 
Lawrence on an 8 oz. rod, 1 7 J pounds weight. He is con- 
sidered one of the best fishermen on the St. Lawrence. 

Mr. Fulton, Mayor of Pittsburg, Mr. Higby, and a num- 
ber of friends, with their wives, went fishing a number of 
times from the Bay last season. The number of fish cap- 
tured, as well as the stories told by them, would fill a 
volume this size. I requested them to draw on Eli Perkins 
for facts, which will appear in the next edition of this work. 

To those who say there is no fishing at Alexandria Bay 
(and do not want the earth), allow me to say Mr. H. R. 
Clark has a standing off"er with me, to bet any man $10 that 
he can catch ten pounds of fish (any where within a mile of 
the Hotel) in an hour. 



5° 

I am really sorry to cut this subject short, but space 
prevents my giving any more names and catches. The 
largest fish caught during the season was a Muscalonge, 
weighing ^S lbs., caught at an island opposite Rockport ; 
the largest caught at the Bay, i8 lbs.; the largest Pike, 7 J 
lbs.; the largest pickerel, 13 lbs., and the largest Bass, 5^ 
lbs. Respectfully yours, 

E. F. BABBAGE. 

*' I OWE YOU AN APOLOGY," 

Dear reader, because since the first edition of this work 
it has claimed that there were no mosquitos at Alexandria 
Bay, but on at least three occasions when the wind was in 
a certain direction we were visited last year by at least a 
dozen or so. After a thorough search of three weeks, 
unable to find the cause, we were about to give it up 
when, to our astonishment, we discovered it. Upon 
looking up the hotel register we found that the hotel 
opened that year with twenty-seven guests, all from 
New Jersey. Comments are unneccessary. We found 
relief in attending Sunday School, and after the usual 
exercises were gone through with a collection was to be 
taken for the poor. The teacher, desiring to show the 
aptness of the pupils, asked each one as he put his mite 
into the box to recite an appropriate verse from the Bible. 
The first lad said, " The Lord loveth the cheerful giver," 
placed his mite in and took his seat. The second one said 
" He that giveth to the poor lendeth unto the Lord," and 
proudly took his seat. The third boy, more worldly than 
the rest, remarked " that a fool and his money soon 
parted." — He will sit down, if he can. at home. 



51 
A REAL LIVE DUDE 

was at the Bay last season, and I must give him credit for 
one thing, if I could not for having either money or brains, 
but will say he was very attentive to the ladies, and it may 
be said to his credit he never tried to cut me out. One 
fine morning he induced three of the nicest young ladies at 
the Bay to take a boat ride, and for the privilege of their 
company agreed to do the rowing himself. They had been 
out upon the water for some time, and he had done the 
rowing heroically, but, getting into the strong current, his 
physical development was being tested to its utmost, when 
he asked the young ladies " if it would not be better for 
him to hug the shore." After a pause of a minute, the 
girliest girl of the group exclaimed: "Well, if you cannot 
find anything better to hug, do for heaven's sake, ' hug the 
shore ! ' " 

SOME OF THE OWNERS. 

St. John's five acres, Judge C. Donohue, New York. 

Manhattan, five acres, Judge Spencer and J. L. Has- 
brouck. New York. 

Deshler, twelve acres, W. G. Deshler, Columbus, O. 

Deer, twenty-five acres, S. Miller, Rochester, N. Y. 

Fairy Land, twenty acres, C. H. and W. B. Hayden, 
Columbus, O. 

Piatt, two acres, Sisson & Fox, Alexandria Bay. 

Brown's, ten acres, S. G. Pope, Alexandria Bay. 

Pleasant, three acres, Sisson & Fox, Alexandria Bay. 

Pullman's, three acres, George M. Pullman, Chicago, 111. 

Friendly, three acres, A. B. Parker and Abner Mellen, 
Jr., New York. 



52 

Cherry, eleven acres, A. B. Pullman and C. B. Marsh, of 
Chicago, 111.; the Rev. George Rockwell, Fulton, N. Y. 

Nobby, over three acres, H. R. Heath, New York. 

Welcome, three acres, S. G. Pope, Ogdensburgh, N. Y. 

Florence Proctor, one acre, E. R. Proctor, Cincinnati, O. 

Maple, three acres, J. L. Hasbrouck, owner. 

Netts, one-half acre, E. A. Kollymer, Brooklyn, N. Y. 

Summer Land, ten acres, the Reverend Asa Saxe, D. D., 
Rochester, N. Y.; Almon Gunnison, D. D., Brooklyn, and 
Richmond Fisk, D. D., Syracuse, N. Y. 

Isle Imperial, one acre, Mrs. LeCount, Philadelphia, Pa. 

Linleth Gow, one-half acre, R. A. Livingston, New York. 

Elephant Rock, one-fourth acre, T. C. Crittenden, Water- 
town, N. Y. 

Idlewild, four acres, R. A. Packer, Sayre, Pa. 

Arcadia and Ina, two acres, S. A. Briggs, New York. 

Sport, four acres, H. A. Packer, Mauch Chunk, Pa. 

Rye, J. H. Hunt, New York. 

Kit Grafton, one-fourth acre, Mrs. S. L. George, Water- 
town, N. Y. 

Island Mary, two acres, W. L. Palmer, Watertown, and 
James M. Browner, St. Louis. 

Little Charm, one-eighth acre, Mrs. F. W. Barker, Alex- 
andria Bay. 

Frost, two acres, Mrs. Sarah L. Frost, Watertown. 

Excelsior Group, five acres, C. S. Goodwin, Oneida, 
N. Y. 

Resort, three acres. Pioneer Club, Watertown. 

Island Royal, Royal E. Dean, New York. 

Devil's Oven, one-fourth acre, has been fitted up with an 
observatory, H. R. Heath, New York. 



53 

Sylvan and Moss, three acres, S. T. Woolworth, Water- 
town, N. Y. 

Cuba, five acres, W. F. Storey, Buffalo, N. Y. 
Little Angell, one-eight acre, W. A. Angell, Chicago. 
Little Lehigh, one acre. Col. R. B. Yates, Rochester, and 

C. H. Cummings, New York. 
Warner's four acres. 

Island Home, one acre, S. D. Hungerford, Adams, N. Y. 

Sunny Side, one acre, Mrs. Emily Moak, Watertown, 
N. Y. 

Wild Rose, one acre, W. G. Rose, Cleveland, Ohio. 

No name, one-quarter acre, Mrs. F. Hammerkin, Syra- 
cuse, N. Y. 

Harmony, one-quarter acre, Mrs. Celia Berger, Syracuse, 
N. Y. 

Wynnstay, one acre, Mrs. Bergin, of Spuyten-Duyvel, 
N. Y. 

Alice Isle, two acres, J. G. Hill, Brooklyn, N. Y. 

Island Royal, Royal E. Deane (firm of Bramall, Deane 
& Co.), New York. 

Sunbeam Group, one acre, C. E. AlUng, Rochester, N. Y. 

Walton, now Lotus Land, twenty-two acres, Mrs. J. N. 
Robins and Mrs. G. H. Robinson, of New York, purchased 
in 1883, will be improved by all the art at their command. 

Bula Vista, Lodge Keepler Point, owned by Mr. Bos- 
worth, of Milwaukee, Wis. 

Seven Sister Isles, owned by Dr. Winston, of Washington, 

D. C. 

Comfort, formerly Pratt and Centennial, owned by A. E. 
Clark, of Chicago Produce Exchange, who has spent 
$20,000 upon the spot to beautify it. 



54 

Deer Island, owned by Hon. Sam. Miller, of New Haven, 
Conn., formerly of Rochester, N. Y. 

Melrose Lodge and Ingle Side, owned by Messrs. A. B. 
Pullman and C. B. i\Iarsh. 

Florence Island, owned by H. S. Chandler, of the Inde- 
pendent. 

Two-Islands-in-Eel-Bay, two acres, E. L. Sargent, Water- 
town, N. Y. 

Long Branch, ten acres, Mrs. C. E. Clark, Watertown, 
N. Y. 

Nigger, three acres, Eugene Robinson, of New York. 

Ella, one-quarter acre, R. E. Hungerford, Watertown, 
N. Y. 

Lookout, two acres, Thomas H. Borden, New York. 

Grinnell Island, two acres, D. G. Grinnell, Brooklyn, 
N. Y. 

Douglass, three acres, Douglass Miller, New Haven, 
Conn. 

Hub, opposite Alexandria Bay, owned by H. R. Clark's 
youngest son, a birthday present from Cornwall and Walton. 

Hart's, five acres, E. Kirke Hart, Albion, N. Y. 

Sunny-Side, two acres, Wm. Stickenson, Sayre, Pa. 

Wau Winnett, two acres, Mr. Hill, Chicago, III. 

WESTMINSTER PARK. 

Opposite the Thousand Island House, is Westminster 
Park, on the lower end of Wells Island. It is eight miles 
long and from three to four miles wide. On the other side 
of it is the Canadian channel of the river, about half a 
mile wide. The lower end of the Island is separated into 
two parts by one of the prettiest sheets of water that ever 



55 

rippled against the bows of a canoe. This is called the 
" Lake of the Island," and it is connected with the river, on 
both the American and Canadian sides, by a narrow chan- 
nel. The Lake is five or six miles long, as smooth as glass, 
and is altogether too pretty and too romantic to attempt to 
describe. 

Westminster Park was bought in 1874 by a Presbyterian 
stock company, and it now has about 15 miles of drives 
and some fine buildings. It has two long water fronts — one 
on the American side of the river, and the other on the 
Lake of the Island, on the Canadian side, there is a high 
hill on the island called Mount Beulah, though after cUaib- 
ing it I think the Hill Difficuity would be a more appro- 
priate name. There is a large chapel on the top of the 
hill, known as Bethune Chapel, with seating accomodations 
for a thousand persons, and with a tower 136 feet high, (was 
blown down in March, 1885,) affording a beautiful view of 
the river and the islands The name of the chapel recalls 
the fact that the late Rev. Dr. Geo. W. Bethune was the 
pioneer tourist through this region, and until his death con- 
tinued to come here summer after summer for recreation. 

BONNIE CASTLE. 

" Timothy Titcomb " (Dr. J. G. Holland, editor of Scrib- 
ner's Monthly), chose this point as a haven of rest and re- 
cuperation, and who does not commend his choice. It will 
be remembered that he died in New York shortly after 
leaving his cherished Bonnie Castle in 1881, for his ardous 
winter's labors. Light house in the distance. 



56 
A LETTER FROM SETH GREEN. 



NEW YORK STATE FISHERY COMMISSION. 



Office of the Superintendent. 

Rochester, N. Y., March 20th. 

My Dear Little " Phat Boy" : 

You request of me a letter for your book. Let- 
ter writing is not my forte, but you are welcome to use these 
facts. In 1855 I bought an island and named it Manhat- 
tan, near Alexandria Bay, built house upon it in the fall and 
moved there with my family the next spring and lived there 
during the summers of 1856 and 1857. The year of 1858 
I spent a part of the season with a party of prominent gen- 
tlemen. During the time I was there, if I wanted black 
bass for breakfast I could take my two fly rods and take 
from 5 to 10 black bass by trolling around my island of 4 
acres, and at any time after August ist. I could take my gun 
and kill a mess of ducks in a short time. There was a few 
deer on Welles Island then. I have killed -50 ducks in one 
day among the islands, and I could take 100 black bass with 
fly any day I wished. 

Immediately opposite is Hart's Island, back of which is 
Deshler. Next on the left is 

MANHATTAN, 

the first island on which habitation was attempted. It was 
bought by Mr. Seth Green, the fish culturist of N. Y., in 
1855. He built a cottage upon il and for several years 
spent his summers here. Mr. J, L. Hasbrouck and Judge 



57 

J. C. Spencer, of N. Y., purchased it from him. They have 
spent $15,000 upon the Island. The original cottage built 
by Seth Green still remains and is used by them as a dining 
room. 

Between Deshler and Manhattan, looking backward, is 
Fairyland, owned by C. H. and W. B. Hayden, of Colum- 
bus, Ohio. This is really one of the finest islands in the 
river. At a vast expense art has triumphed over nature, 
transforming a barren into the loveliest of green lawns. 
Next on the left is deer island ; then 

SUMMERLAND. 

Summerland, one of the most beautiful of the "Thousand 
Islands," is located mid-way between the north and south 
channels of the St. Lawrence, about three miles below 
Alexandria Bay, having an area of fourteen acres and is 
the largest of the " Summerland group," which includes 
"Idlewild," "Sport," "Ida" and "Arcadia." The island 
is covered with a dense forest furnishing an abundance of 
shade and is said to have the finest groves on the 
river. At the extreme northerly and southerly ends of the 
island there are extensive sandy beaches, a great rarity in 
this locahty, which are used by the " Summerlanders " for 
bathing purposes. The island is traversed from end to end 
by a most dehghtful natural avenue, densely shaded and 
lined on either side with a thick undergrowth of wild 
flowers and ferns. The island is owned by the Summerland 
Association, a corporation organized under and by virtue 
of the laws of the State of New York, for social and yacht- 
ing purposes, and composed of the following stockholders : 
Rev. Asa Saxe, D. D., Isaiah F. Force, James Sargent, 



■5» 

Sears E. Brace, Emory B. Chase, Henry C. Wisner, Lewis 
P. Ross, Francis M. McFarlin, Chas. W. Gray, George H. 
Newell, Henry O. Hall, Joseph A. Stull and Frank W. 
Hawley, of Rochester, N, Y. ; Rev. Richmond Fish, D. D., 
Alfred Underhill and Horace Bronson of Syracuse, N. Y. ; 
Rev. Almond Gunnison, D. D., and Frank Sperry, of 
Brooklyn, N, Y, The association have erected upon the 
island a large and commodious " Club House," wherein the 
members of the association and their families take their 
meals. 

After setting apart a large grove at each end of the island 
for general use, the balance of the island was divided into 
lots, one of which was assigned to each stockholder. Upon 
these lots so assigned, the members of the association have 
erected cottages for the sole use of their own famihes. 

In addition to the Club House the association has erected 
numerous pavilions and summer houses in different parts of 
the island, together with a large ice house, and has con- 
structed several docks of sufficient size to permit of the 
landing of large steamers. 

The association owns a large steam yacht, which is used 
in running to and from Alexandria Bay and for fishing and 
pleasure excursions. 

Each member of the association provides himself with 
saihng and row boats. The Club House is opened for the 
reception of the members of the association and their im- 
mediate families o/i/j', on the first day of July of each year, 
and remains open until about September 15th, dunng all 
of which time the yacht is at the service of the party. 



59 

Between Deer Island and Summerland is Cedar ; back of 
Cedar is Sport, owned by H. A. Packer, who died in 1884. 
The island, however, will be occupied this year by H. C. 
Wilbur, G. B. Linderman, C. B. Newton and other friends. 
Anthony Point is on the right. This place is the resort of 
E. and T. H. Anthony, the extensive dealers in photogra- 
phic goods in New York. 

APING CUSTOMS, MANNERS, ETC., OF 

THE ENGLISH. 

This is done to a great extent, not only in Canada, but 
I am sorry to say in Free America, better known as the U. 
S. I cannot find any fault with the average Canadian, who 
is, as it were, governed by Queen Victoria, and must have 
some reverence for royalty in the aping of their manners 
and customs, but in this land where we have an abundance 
of Queens, Princes, Lords and Sovereigns who are not 
flattered by titles, but bear their honors meekly, all are 
royal born and bred. Speaking of titles reminds me that 
at home I am plain Edward F. Babbage, or. " Phat Boy," 
(I spell it with ' Ph ' because it does not sound so greasy), 
but the moment I leave home, say for a trip through the 
South, I am called Captain for the first few hundred miles, 
then a little way on its becomes Colonel, and when I getta 
Georgia it is Major, in South CaroHna it is Judge or 
General, until I get to Florida, and I have heard them say 
there " great God is that you ?" But we diverge. Returning 
to the aping of the manners of Princess Louise, I wish 
to say right here that I firmly believe it did the Canadian 
people a great amount of good, but fail to see where the 



6o 

people of the United States could be benefitted. I was told 
that at Kingston the Princess asked for her strawberries in 
a box with hulls on, and when placed before her she took 
them up by the stem between the thumb and finger and bit 
the berry off and placed the hull on the plate. Now every- 
body does the same ; previous to her visit they used to hull 
and wash them before placing them on the table. The 
same with grapes. They used to wash them in a goblet of 
water at the table before eating them ; now they take the 
grape between the thumb and finger, press it to the lips and 
squeeze gently, and juice as well as insides are soon on the 
way to digestion, and the skin laid away on the plate as the 
Princess did. Asparagus — it was almost painful for me to 
see Canadians eat it in as many ways as there were people 
at the table, in fact no two ate it alike until after the Prin- 
cess came ; now everybody takes it by the hard green end, 
between thumb and finger, and putting it into the mouth, 
closes the teeth down upon it and draws it gently from the 
mouth, leaving all that is digestible within, and the remain- 
der is laid on the plate. The Princess once took a walk 
through her kitchen at Rideau Hall, Ottawa, took the vege- 
table cook to task for washing fresh picked peas from the 
vine that had just been shelled, saying it was nonsense, if 
your hands are clean, to wash a virgin pea. 

HOW WOMEN FISH. 

Having read various descriptions of how fishing is carried 
on by the fair sex at the several watering places, permit us 
to mention some of them. One writer said : " Ah ! what 
joy to have a bite ; what rare delight to find one's bait 
gone" — and it was only by the suicidal policy of some 



6i 

water-weary fish who chance to pass our way that we could 
record one fish for our day's sport. How different is the 
fishing at the Bay. I have known Mrs. A. Isaacs and 
daughter, of Brooklyn, to catch in four hours 20 fish, two 
of which weighed over 25 pounds. A gentleman says of 
the fishing near the Hudson: "The first thing a woman 
d' es when she goes fishing is to make herself look as hideous 
as possible — a sort of a cross between the Witch of Endor 
and Meg Merrilles. This is done by a hideous straw hat 
big enough to cover a chicken coop, the oldest and most 
unbecoming dress she has got, a pair of gloves six sizes too 
large, and, if possible rubber boots ; and the sight of woman, 
lovely woman, so dressed presents a spectacle of pity." 
You will not have occasion to pity any of the ladies who go 
fishing from the Bay, for they look so jaunty you would 
envy them and their enjoyment as well as fish. I have 
known Mrs. Madden and party to bring home 30 fish, from 
a 3J black bass to a 7 ft) pickerel. A friend writes from 
C Lake, telHng how he spent a day fishing there, ac- 
companied by three ladies and a gentleman friend. Women 
never step into a boat here, but always jump. Of course 
she slips, falls down, yells for help, nearly upsets the boat, 
and is put to rights by the most eligible young man in the 
party. Nothing will do, then, but she must row, and she 
knows as much about rowing as a cow does about biUiards. 
She handles her oars as if they were trees, splashes every one 
with water, bhsters her hands, and after half an hour's work 
she is about ten feet away in the wrong direction, when one 
of the men takes the oars and we are soon at our fishing 
place. She tries to bait her hook, and after getting the 
hook into all her fingers, in fact everywhere but into the 



62 

minnow, her friend baits the hook, and she throws it out. 
The first time it catches on to one of the ladies' ears, the 
next throw, into the back of the gentleman's neck, and the 
third time into the coat of her friend, who quietly cuts it 
out (it is his best coat), and he quietly puts the line into the 
water without saying a cuss word, and says he hopes she 
will catch a whale. After a few moments of quiet all are 
informed she has a bite; she pulls it in steadily, to find it is 
part of the carcass of a dead horse. She is soon relieved of 
the burden and catches a small perch. She is so delighted 
that she must let it flop into the faces of every one in the 
boat, tries for twenty minutes to take it off the hook, but 
her fingers are so sore she lets the job out to her male com- 
panion. One of the other ladies has sat for two hours 
without moving a muscle, while the other, I believe, would 
fish with a hair-pin baited with a piece of red flannel hung 
to a skein of silk in a stationary wash tub, and swear 
solemnly when she got through that she had millions of 
bites. Dear lady readers, we have no such experiences to 
relate at Alexandria Bay. The boats are the prettiest, the 
fishermen the nicest, the fish the largest and best, the boat- 
men bait your hooks ; the hotel furnishes the lunch, and 
you are sure to catch fish ; and when they are cooked and 
you eat your meal served upon an Island, and do not say 
you have had the most pleasant day ever spent fishing, draw 
on me for the balance. P. B. 

YACHTING. 

Water — and as one enthusiastic writer puts it — such 
water ! — is abundant, and to enjoy this water in a pensive 
or poetic mood, the steam yacht should be brought into 



63 

requisition. Private yachts are numerous and elegant, and 
it is to the credit of the owners that they are not niggardly 
in exhibiting a spirit of generosity and courtesy. They are 
constantly inviting individuals and parties to enjoy the 
€xhilerating excitement of the shooting around the beauti- 
ful spots. And if you, dear tourist, have no friend that 
invites you to share a cushioned seat in his graceful fairy 
like craft, then go to Capt. E. W. Visger, on the Island 
Wanderer^ or Capt. Sweet, of the John T/iorn, and they 
will take you on an excursion among the Islands that you 
will gladly recall as a cheerful reminiscence of your St. 
Lawrence excursion, for the opportunity will have been 
•offered to bring within the range of your vision enchanting 
scenes that pen is not adequate to describe, but by pur- 
chasing one of the " Phat Boy's " Birds-eye Charts of the 
St. Lawrence, you will be the possessor of the only correct 
map of the St. Lawrence. A perfect guide to the river. 

Still continuing our course, looking to the right, is the 
cottage of Mrs. Clark, of Watertown. Next, Goose Bay is 
the island owned by Dr. Carleton, near which is the Three 
Sisters' Island ; before the Three Sisters' is Hume's Island^ 
Next, on the left, is Whiskey Island, and on the right oppo- 
site are a number of large and small islands, the names of 
which we will not weary the tourist's brain with. 

Goose Bay is really beautiful, if its name is shghtly 
homely. It is studded with islands, and fishing abounds. 
It is here that Mr. Hurbert R. Clark, of New York, in one 
■day caught some 300 pounds of black bass, ranging in 
weight from 1^ pounds to 6^ pounds. On the right is 
Lyon's dock and Meeker's island. Next, on the left, is 



64 

Three Sisters light ; in the distance is Lone Star, or Dark 
Island; Island No. i, it is called by some. After passings 
on the left is a small cluster of island shoals. On the right 
is Chippewa Bay. This is a superb sheet of water, where 
the fishing is a marked feature. It is a favorite resort of 
Ogdensburg people, who occupy the contiguous islands. 
All around the shore are camps, cottages, etc., and make 
an animated scene for the tourist. Three miles from Chip- 
pewa Bay on the left is Crossover light ; thence three miles 
to Cole's light on the left, where we enter the Canadian 
channel. Nine miles in the distance is Brockville. On the 
right opposite Cole's Hght is Oak point. Four miles below 
is Allen's landing, a very popular place for picnics, etc. 
On the left a prominent bluff. On the right for six miles 
the islands come thick and fast ; huge rocks rise from the 
water's surface, with very little vegetation or foliage, and 
the boat makes her way rapidly among them, winding around 
like a snake, heading for all the points of the compass, fre- 
quently getting herself into coves and bays that apparently 
have no outlet, but always finding a channel, and sailing 
triumphantly out into the broad waters again. 

A little beyond is St. Lawrence Park, used for pleasure 
and picnic parties, especially by our Canadian friends of 
Brockville. We are now at the village of Brockville ; we 
" take a rest " for route B. 

In front of Brockville are the last three of the Thousand 
Islands ; being some distance from the rest, it is presumable 
they drifted away, and finally rooted here. This, however, 
was " long befo' the wah ! " 



6s 

Opposite, on the right, is Morristown, a small, lively 
American village, of about i,ooo inhabitants, a station on 
the Utica and Black River R. R., connects with Brockville 
by two steam ferries. 




This is a picture of my twin brother, Dr. E. F. Babbage, 
of Rochester, N. Y. " A friend in need." How I wish I 
was a doctor. 

" Phat Boy." 



66 



Route B. 



Our object being to make this little book a complete 
Guide to the Thousand Islands and St. Lawrence River, so 
that tourists from any section, no matter where they strike, 
will find it intelligible to learn their location. We have 
therefore divided the explanation into two routes. First, we 
took our friends from New York to Niagara Falls, Lewis- 
ton, Toronto, Kingston and the American channel of the 
St. T>awrence as far as Brock ville. Second, our journey 
will be from Cape Vincent, thence down the St. Lawrence 
through the American channel to Brockville. 

CAPE VINCENT 

is a pleasant little village in Jefterson county, N. Y., at the 
junction of Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence River. It 
is also the terminus of the Rome, Watertown and Ogdens- 
burg Railroad, and connections by steamer St. Lawrence 
are made to Alexandria Bay. 

As we steam out of this port, on the left is Long, or 
Wolf Island, 21 miles in length and 7 miles in width. The 
next on the right is 



67 
CARLETON ISLAND. 

At the upper extremity, the land narrows into a rugged 
promontory, ending in a bluff sixty feet in height. Here, 
lifting their ruined heads aloft, and plainly visible to all 
passers along the river, stand a number of toppling and 
half ruined chimneys. These may be seen for miles around. 
So long have these old sentinels watched over the scenes 
around them that their history is lost in the misty past. 
Around them are the remaining ruins of an old fort, sup- 
posed by many to be the ruins of old Fort Frontenac. 
Around its old redoubts and parapets linger antiquated his- 
torical legends and traditions enough to fill a volume, and 
forming an interesting study. An ancient well, cut in the 
solid Trenton limestone down to the level of the lake, has 
been converted by the reckless imaginations of the natives 
into a receptacle of the golden doubloons which the French 
soldiers, upon evacuating the old fort, are said to have 
thrown there, with the brass guns on top of them. Upoa 
either side, and immediately in front of the bluff upon which 
the old fort stands, is a quiet, pretty little bay, which may 
once have supplied a safe and easy anchorage for the vessels 
that lay under its protecting guns. 

The fortress is supposed to have been one of importance 
as a military post at some time, having been built upon aa 
excellent plan and in the most substantial manner. Num- 
bers of graves still occupy a field near by, the remains of 
the brave soldiers who once occupied the fort. The scene 
is of deep interest to the students of history. 

About six miles this side of Clayton is Lindsay Island, 
the only one on the right between Cape Vincent and Clay- 



68 

ton. On the left, two miles before reaching Clayton, is 
Grindstone Island, five miles long. Cross-over channel is 
where the Canadian line of steamers, leaving Kingston at 5 
o'clock in the morning, comes through into the American 
channel. Before landing at Clayton is Prospect Park and 
hill, which has been systematically laid out for villas and 
camping parties, and where tourists can always find a com- 
fortable stopping place. Although we have been travelmg 
among the islands quite early in the morning, we have 
noticed that the people who occupy the cottages are all up, 
the ladies sitting on the piazzas reading, generally, and the 
gentlemen out in small boats fishing. There are two kinds 
of fishing done here — fishing for fun and fishing for fish. I 
cannot explain the distinction better than to repeat what a 
gentleman who was traveling with the party, said to me one 
afternoon : " We are going to take the ladies out fishing 
to-morrow," he said, " to give them a taste of the sport. 
Then, the iiext day, we are going out alone to catch some 
fish." 

''DON'T DO IT." 

This startling head-line, when it strikes the eye, denotes 
that there is something to be said of personal benefit to the 
reader of the article, and we hope to make it pleasant as 
well as profitable to those who take the time to peruse it. 
To begin with, we desire to say, don't get fat ; do not allow 
yourself to develop beyond the line which is laid down for 
the average man or woman ; because, if you do, the average 
chair will not fit, the average seat in a railroad coach will be 
too small ; you will be obliged to shrink into it, and then 
take up the seat of another after you get in. The same 



69 

trouble will occur at amusements, which jou enjoy very 
much, but it so distorts you to occupy the chair that the 
pleasure is lost ; the average door to a hack is too smal), 
and so is the omnibus, and you are obliged to walk. Here 
you will enjoy it, especially if it is a little slippery, dropping 
now and then three hundred and thirty pounds, because 
your friend thinks it does not hurt a fat man to fall. You 
will get no sympathy from any one ; this I will guarantee, 
because I have tried it. By way of illustration, if I had 
not eaten anything for three days but a yard of pump 
water, and was to come to a friend and say I was hungry, 
and had not had anything to eat for three days, he would 
look me all over, and in reply would say : " Well, I guess 
you can stand it until next fall." So the fleshier you are 
the least spmpathy you get ; and if Dr. Tanner stood it for 
forty days, you have sufticient fat to last you six months, to 
say the least. Second, you become, as it were, a curiosity, 
and all look at you with amazement and wonder what 
circus or side show you escaped from, or to what dime 
museum you belong. Third, there isn't anything made 
for the average man that will fit you, therefore, everything 
must be made to order than you wear, except a necktie, 
pair of socks or handkerchief. The latter must be seven- 
eighths of a yard wide in order to hold the perspiration it 
will mop up in once passing over your manly brow. Fourth, 
when at the age of 21, and weighing 225 pounds, I had no 
trouble in making a selection of a partner for Hfe. She 
climbed the golden stairs about five years ago, and now I 
am fair, fat, funny and forty ; would pass in a crowd for 39, 
if my daughter was not around. If I find one now who 



70 

loves a fat man — I am a little too fat — therefore, this world 
is a very chilly one for me. 

After you become a Httle above the average size, as I 
have in development and are conspicuous, everybody will 
know you ; if they do not, it will be easy for them to find 
out ; all they are obliged to do is to ask anyone. You will 
not know only those of your relations and friends very near 
to you. Then this world will be very lonesome and cold, or 
your experience will be different from mine. It would be 
a treat (were you not sensitive) if you could walk one block 
and hear the expressions that come from the vulgar throng 
as they pass. One female, with eyes like two saucers, ex- 
claimed : " Glory be to the father, Mary Ann, phwat's that?" 
And another say " Got in himmell, what a fat man," or a 
lady of color declare, 'Umph! Umph ! ! Dat am de big- 
gest man I ebber seed." 

FROM BROCKVILLE TO MONTREAL. 

Brockville was named in honor of General Brock, who 
fell in the Battle of Queenstown Heights in 1812. It is 
situated on the Canadian side of the St. Lawrence River, 
and is one of the pleasantest villages in the province It 
lies at the foot of the Thousand Islands on an elevation of 
land which rises from the river in a succession of ridges. 
The town was laid out in 1802, and is now a place of con- 
siderable importance. The present population is about 
7,000. 

After leaving the wharf, the boat ])asses the most beauti- 
ful cliff on the river, the Palisades of the St. Lawrence, on 
which are erected ma2;nificent mansions and suburban resi- 



71 

dences and villas of Canada's distinguished sons. The 
most prominent of these is the son of Sir Hugh Allen, 
whose residence is really superb. The sightseer can observe 
the winding stairs, boat and bath houses and other appoint 
ments for recreation. 

Having left Brockville, a magnificent view greets the eye ; 
islands are not now in view ; the river is a most beautiful 
sheet of water, running perfectly straight for about sixteen 
miles with the land on either side in good view, for the 
river is a little over two miles wide. Three miles from 
Morristown, on the right, is a camp ground of the Baptist 
persuasion, mostly from St. Lawrence County. Five miles 
on the left from Brockville is Maitland. At this point is a 
prominent object known as the old distillery, whose proprie- 
tor is said to have been worth, at one time, a million dol- 
lars, but whose cupidity during "America's unpleasantness " 
led him into selling '* crooked whiskey," or rather disposing 
of his distillery products in a very " crooked way." With- 
out givmg the details, the facts in brief are : He antagon- 
ized the Canadian government in the matter of paying 
revenue, and in his fight for stupid supremacy, he not only 
lost his distillery, but his fortune too, and he and his family 
became reduced to poverty, and none of them remain 
around their former home. It is said he first induced his 
niece to marry the revenue collector of the district, that he 
might carry on the nefarious business in collusion and with- 
out detection, but, you see, 

" The deep laid plans of mice and men gang aft aglee." 

About four miles below, on the left, is the old blue stone 
church in the graveyard of which rests the remains of the 



72 

founder of Methodism on this continent, Barbara Heck. 
One mile farther, on the left is McCarthy's new brick brew- 
ery. Half a mile beyond is the celebrated Rysdick stock 
farm, owned by J. P. Wiser, M. P. Here is owned the 
celebrated stallion Rysdick, which cost Mr. Wiser $25,000. 
It is a farm of about six hundred acres, and is unquestion- 
ably the finest stock farm in the Dominion of Canada. 
The thrift, energy and ability of this gentleman will not be 
wondered at when it is learned that he is of American 
birth. Next, on the left, is the celebrated Labatt's brewery 
and 

PRESCOTT. 

with its 3,000 inhabitants, who seem to have lost their grip 
on the trade of the river, judging from the dilapidated con- 
dition of the stores, warehouses, etc., on the wharv-es. The 
town, however, is handsomely laid out, has a fine city hall 
and market, and there are many fine private residences. 
It is connected with Ottowa, capital of the Dominion, by 
the St. Lawrence and Ottowa Railroad, distance 54 miles. 
Here many tourists who desire to visit the capital disembark 
for that purpose. We refer the tourist to Daniel's Hotel as 
a good stopping place. L. H. Daniels has taken the hotel, 
and spent $8,000 in improvements ; he is too well known 
to the traveling public to need any praise from me. Oppo- 
site is 

OGDENSBURG, 

founded by Francis Picquit in Mav, 1749. It now contains 
about 10,000 people, and of course ranks as a city. It is 
the terminus of the Rome and Watertown, Utica and Black 
River, and the Ogdensburg and Lake Champlain railroads. 



73 

It is beautifully laid out, well planted with maple trees, and 
is called the " Maple City," It has a United States Cus- 
tom House, post-ofifice, and a new opera house, costing- 
$150,000, six fine church edifices, water works, gas works,, 
a fire alarm telegraph and two daily newspapers, and possi- 
bly other modern improvements. At the lower end of town 
is the big elevator of the Ogdensburg and Lake Champlain 
Railroad. 

One mile and a half below Prescott, on the left, is Wind- 
mill point ; the old windmill has been turned into a light- 
house. Here, in -1837, the "Patriots," under Von Shultz a. 
Polish exile, estabHshed themselves, but from which they 
were driven, with severe loss. We believe this Von Shultz 
was subsequently hung by the Canadian authorities, and 
his followers banished, probably to New Jersey. On the 
left, a Httle below the light-house, is the residence and farm 
of W. H. McGannon, the oldest pilot on the St. Lawrence 
river, the man who first took the Passport of the Richelieu 
fine down the Long Sault Rapids, in July, 1847. I am also 
indebted to him for the correctness of my New Map of the 
St. Lawrence and other information of benefit to me and 
the public. 

Three miles below, on the left, is Johnstown Bay, with 
Johnstown — not a very important trading post— overlook- 
ing. This place has a custom house officer, commissioner 
of fisheries, mayor. and marshal of the district; but these 
important officials are concentrated in one man. 

We turn here to the right, leaving the far-famed Chimney 
Island on the left, on which are said to be the ruins of old 
French forts, battlements, etc. The only remains we have 
discovered of these supposed formidable defences is an ex- 



72 

founder of Methodism on this continent, Barbara Heck. 
One mile farther, on the left is McCarthy's new brick brew- 
ery. Half a mile beyond is the celebrated Rysdick stock 
farm, owned by J. P. Wiser, M. P. Here is owned the 
celebrated stallion Rysdick, which cost Mr. Wiser $25,000. 
It is a farm of about six hundred acres, and is unquestion- 
ably the finest stock farm in the Dominion of Canada. 
The thrift, energy and ability of this gentleman will not be 
wondered at when it is learned that he is of American 
birth. Next, on the left, is the celebrated Labatt's brewery 
and 

PRESCOTT. 

with its 3,000 inhabitants, who seem to have lost their grip 
on the trade of the river, judging from the dilapidated con- 
dition of the stores, warehouses, etc., on the wharves. The 
town, however, is handsomely laid out, has a fine city hall 
and market, and there are many fine private residences. 
It is connected with Ottowa, capital of the Dominion, by 
the St. Lawrence and Ottowa Railroad, distance 54 miles. 
Here many tourists who desire to visit the capital disembark 
for that purpose. We refer the tourist to Daniel's Hotel as 
a good stopping place. L. H. Daniels has taken the hotel, 
and spent $8,000 in improvements ; he is too well known 
to the traveling public to need any praise from me. Oppo- 
site is 

OGDENSBURG, 

founded by Francis Picquit in May, 1749. It now contains 
about 10,000 ])eople, and of course ranks as a city. It is 
the terminus of the Rome and Watertown, Utica and Black 
River, and the Ogdensburg and Lake Champlain railroads. 



73 

It is beautifully laid out, well planted with maple trees, and 
is called the " Maple City." It has a United States Cus- 
tom House, post-office, and a new opera house, costing^ 
$150,000, six fine church edifices, water works, gas works, 
a fire alarm telegraph and two daily newspapers, and possi- 
bly other modern improvements. At the lower end of town 
is the big elevator of the Ogdensburg and Lake Champlain 
Railroad. 

One mile and a half below Prescott, on the left, is Wind- 
mill point ; the old windmill has been turned into a Hght- 
house. Here, in -1837, the "Patriots," under Von Shultz a 
Pohsh exile, established themselves, but from which they 
were driven, with severe loss. We believe this Von Shultz 
was subsequently hung by the Canadian authorities, and 
his followers banished, probably to New Jersey. On the 
left, a Httle below the light-house, is the residence and farm 
of W. H. McGannon, the oldest pilot on the St. Lawrence 
river, the man who first took the Passport of the Richelieu 
hne down the Long Sault Rapids, in July, 1847. I am also 
indebted to him for the correctness of my New Map of the 
St. Lawrence and other information of benefit to me and 
the pubHc. 

Three miles below, on the left, is Johnstown Bay, with 
Johnstown — not a very important trading post— overlook- 
ing. This place has a custom house officer, commissioner 
of fisheries, mayor and marshal of the district ; but these 
important officials are concentrated in one man. 

We turn here to the right, leaving the far-famed Chimney 
Island on the left, on which are said to be the ruins of old 
P>ench forts, battlements, etc. The only remains we have 
discovered of these supposed formidable defences is an ex- 



74 

tensive moat around the island, twelve feet deep, filled with 
water. The chimney, from which it derives its name, is 
supposed to be on the island, but we have looked in vain 
to discover it. It may be, however, that it has floated down 
the river ; we will speak of it further on. 

In the distance, on the left, are Tick, or Pier islands. 
Some of the finest bass fishing in the river is off this old 
pier. Dr. Melville, of Prescott, the inventor of rheumatic 
victor, and an enthusiastic fisherman of this section, last 
summer caught a black bass weighing seven and one-half 
pounds while enjoying the sport around the pier. 

Three miles from Chimney island in the distance, is what 
is termed " the cut," formxing the channel between Galop 
and Moore's islands. It was the former channel of this fine 
of boats, but the Dominion government are expending six 
miUions of dollars for the enlargement of the canals of this 
route, and the survey party at present are blasting a chan- 
nel through the 

GALOP RAPID, 

which may be seen in the distance. The reason of the 
change of channel is formed with an edict of the pilots not 
to interfere with the work of the engineer corps engaged on 
this necessary improvement of excavating a fifteen foot 
channel, to allow larger boats to pass, and dispense with the 
use of the Edwardsburg canal. This is the first and small- 
est rapid on the St Lawrence River, and as the Phat Boy 
has termed it, " a little one for a cent." I will, however, 
give you an idea of what the rapids are. All the rapids on 
this river are caused by numerous rocks, large and small, in 
the bed of the river, and the swift current of water passing 



75 

over these rocks causes the fearful commotion that you 
observe. Now, to carry our philosophy a little farther, we 
say the larger the rock and the stronger the current, the 
better the rapids. No rocks, no water, no current, no 
rapids ! This commotion which you see here is caused by 
a ledge of rocks five and one-half feet in height under nine 
feet of water. You can see the swell and white cap which 
this rock occasions, and then use your best judgment to 
determine the height of the rocks in Long Sault, where we 
hope to arrive at one o'clock. (There are, let me state 
here, eight rapids on our trip to-day, which may be divided 
into two classes, first and second. The first class are Long 
Sault, meaning a long leap or jump; Cedar, deriving its 
name from the trees in the vicinity, and Lachine. The 
second class are Galop, meaning a hopping, jumping rapid ; 
Rapid Piatt, meaning in French, flat ; Chateau du Lac, 
meaning foot of the lake ; SpHt Rock, derived from a fissure 
which makes the channel, and the Cascade, from its resemb- 
lance to a cascade). 

On the left, before arriving at the Galop rapids, is the 
entrance to the Edwardsburg canal. This canal is seven 
and one-half miles in length, and is the first canal we ar- 
rive at ; its terminus is at Iroquois. It would be well here 
to say that we only have canals around the rapids, or where 
the current is too strong for a steamer to ascend. We here 
append a tabular statement of the 

ST. LAWRENCE CANALS. 

Edwardsburg canal, j^ miles long, three locks, 14 feet 
fall m the river ; Morrisburg canal, 4 miles long, 2 locks, 
II 1-6 feet fall; Farron's Point canal, J mile long, i lock. 



76 

4 feet fall ; Cornwall canal, 1 2 miles long, 7 locks, 48 feet 
fall; Beauharnor's canal, 11^ miles long, 9 locks, 84 feet 
fall ; Lachine canal, 9 miles long, 5 locks, 45 feet fall. 

In the distance, on the left is the village of Edwards- 
burg, now called Cardinal. Here is located the Ed- 
wardsburg starch factory, the largest m the Dominion of 
Canada. The president of the company is the Hon. Walter 
Shanley, of Hoosac Tunnel fame. He was the great con- 
tractor who completed that wonderful piece of work, and is 
now manager of the St. Lawrence and Ottawa Railroad. 

Twenty minutes from Edwardsburg to the next point of 
interest. 

WHAT I KNOW ABOUT ELI PERKINS. 

Some few years ago, Mr. Perkins was a passenger on one 
of the boats. I do not know whether he took me for the 
captain, director or manager of the line or not, but he ex- 
erted himself considerably to form my acquaintance. 
There was nothing unusual about that, however, as there is 
something '■''distingue'' about me, and when on the boat I 
stand considerably " above proof." I have frequently dined 
at the same table with the Governor-General, Lord Dufterin 
and retinue — after his lordship had left. But to return to 
EH. The day in question I was upon the deck of the boat 
as usual, describing the points of interest, especially the one 
on the Canadian shore, where the St. Regis Indians come 
year after year to gather the famous elm and basswood with 
which to make their celebrated baskets. I was delineating 
at some length upon the noble red man, when Eli came to 
me and said, I will write you a verse of poetry about that. 



77 

Glad to get a memento in that shape from so distinguished 
an individual, who had so often been accused of being witty, 
I said it would please me very much. Here is the verse : 

" Once here the noble red man took his dehghts, 
Fit, fished and bled ; 
Now most of the inhabitants are white, 
With nary a red." 

I thanked him very profusely, and on subsequent occa- 
sions took great delight in repeating the lines to the pas- 
sengers — never forgetting for a moment to remind them 
that they were written for me by the alleged American 
humorist. One day, after delivering myself of the poetry 
and repeating to the passengers that it was written by the 
celebrated poet, writer, humorist and lecturer, Eli Perkins, 
I was approached by an exceedingly polite and affable gen- 
tleman, whom I learned was Mr. John H. Rochester, of 
Rochester, N. Y., who asked if he understood me correctly 
in attributing the authorship of the Hnes quoted to Mr. 
Perkins. I assured him that he had written them expressly 
for me, and produced in Eli's own handwriting the original 
copy. With a subdued smile resting upon his counten- 
ance, Mr. Rochester informed me that there must be an 
error somewhere, as a gentleman, a Mr. Fletcher had writ- 
ten a poem in 1834, in which the exact verse occurred, and 
he proceeded to repeat the verse from memory. This took 
me slightly back, and I subsequently came to the conclu- 
sion with " my friend " of the Oil City Derrick, that a cab- 
bage leaf was never more at home than when in the crown 
of " Uli Perkins' hat." After that I had no more use for the 
poem, but determined if I ever met " Uli " I should call to 
his mind the circumstances connected with " his Httle 



7S 

poem." I had not long to wait, for one day, while in 
Evansville, Indiana, at the St. George Hotel, I met the 
gentleman, and recalled the circumstance connected with 
the little verse, and be, with a perfect air of fionchalance^ 
said that he had never given it a thought since — dashed it 
off in a minute. I told him how remarkable it was that 
great minds often run in the same channel, and related my 
experience with his gem. He scowled, and, turning on his 
heel, said it was indeed a singular word for word resem- 
blance, but changed the subject at once, and asked me to his 
room on the following morning, which invitation I cheerfully 
accepted, doting all the evening upon having a nice time^ 
and swopping a few gags, etc., etc.; but my hopes were 
blighted, for the next morning I was informed of his very 
early departure — gone up to he to the people of Rockport, 
I was told. " Uli " is a great man, and contracts a larger 
amount of business upon a very small amount of capital 
than any public character I know of. When Eli reads 
this I expect he will load his big gun — not intellectual, but 
otherwise — and come for me. I will, therefore, give him 
a pointer in advance ; there won't anything scare me but a 
stomach pump. 

Distinguished among Indian names is that of Iroquois. 
Here it names a village, formerly known as Matilda ; but, 
like all other good Matildas do, she changed her name to 
Iroquois, in order to preserve the name. The Iroquois 
Indians formerly owned this section of country. One and 
a half miles below this village is the narrowest point in the 
St. Lawrence River, from Kingston to the gulf. This broad 
expanse of water we are just passing, and the one we arrive 
at immediately after leaving the point, are very shallow,. 



79 

consequently holds the water in check at the point — the 
depth of water in the shallow places being about 22 feet, 
while at the point it is 84 feet. Width of the river 1,14a 
feet — 170 feet less than a quarter of a mile. 

On the right in the narrowest portion of the river is Cedar 
Point. On the left is a small bluff, formerly called Hemlock 
Point, on account of a fine hemlock standing there ; but on 
one fine morning the hemlock, the tree and the point all slid 
into the river, and have not yet returned. About fifteen 
feet back from the point is a rail fence, which is outside of 
the earth-works that were thrown up in 181 2-13, and bat- 
teries were erected on Cedar Point. 

On the left is the main shore of the Dominion of Canada^ 
with a population of over five millions. On the right is the 
main shore of the United States of America, with a popu- 
lation of over fifty millions. When the five milHons want 
those fifty millions all they will be obliged to do is to walk 
over and take them. Then will be verified that beautiful 
passage in Holy Writ which says, " One shall chase a thou- 
sand and two put ten thousand to flight. Sing ! " 

This was really a strong point, and was fortified on both 
sides of the river by the opposing parties. From the fact 
of the successful fortifications by the Americans the Rideau 
Canal owes its origin. Guns and stores or merchandise 
could not be taken up the river. It was conceived by 
Colonel By, of the Engineer corps, that a new canal would 
obviate the difficulty, and all his resources were immediately 
put into requisition, and the canal was completed at a cost 
of $5,000,000. It extends from Ottawa, formerly By-town,, 
to Kingston, and is still in use. 



8o 

Ten minutes from here to the next point of interest. On 
the left is the entrance to the Morrisburg Canal, the second 
canal in the chain, but it is not used by this lin^ of boats. 
All tows and saiHng vessels have to use the canal. In the 
distance front is Rapid Piatt ; on the right is Ogden's 
Island, the finest wooded island in the St. Lawrence River. 
Beyond is Waddington, St. Lawrence county, N. Y. In 
front is this rapid we have just named; it is the second one, 
and is a "Httle one for two cents." It has, however, eight 
feet more descent than the first, but is only a one cent 
desc enter rapid. 

MORRISBURG, 

After passing the point, Morrisburg comes into view on 
the left — the prettiest village in the Dominion of Canada. 
Look at its churches, public buildings, private residences, 
and hotels (the St. Lawrence Hall is kept by W. H. Mc- 
Gannon and Brother, and I can say cheerfully no better 
hotel in town), that greet the eye, for we are still in the 
Province of Ontario. At half past three o'clock we enter 
the Province of Quebec. You will have a good chance then 
to compare the difi'erence between the two Provinces. 
Your especial attention is called to this now, that you may 
be prepared to scan the change you will not fail to observe 
Before reaching Morrisburg is Doran's Island, which was 
rented by Mr. Oz Doran of the St. Regis Indians for one 
dollar per year, and they come every year 60 miles to col- 
lect one dollar. Opposite Morrisburg is Dry Island, used 
for picnics, etc. 

One hour from this point to the Long Sault Rapids. We 
speak of this here, for it is about dinner time, and if you are 



lucky enough to secure a seat at the first table you will lose 
no point of interest, for it is presumable you will finish 
within the hour. 

THE CUISINE ON THE BOAT. 

It will not be amiss here to state that the meals were 
formerly served on the American plan, and were served in 
the upper saloon, and to give you but a faint idea of the 
commotion created by the passengers when there was one 
more person on board than seats at the table would require 
a volume ten times this size to describe. Therefore, please 
excuse me if I relate by way of illustration what an emin- 
ent French writer said on the subject : " The waiters, like 
httle puppets, would bob up serenely at any time and place, 
drop a dish or whatever the hand contained, and was as 
soon out of sight. This continued for about one hour, 
while we were seated back against the cabin wall, with just 
space enough for the waiter to pass between us and the 
table. When the signal was given everybody made a rush 
for the table, and if the scene depicted could only be de- 
scribed humorously or otherwise I would like to read it." 
But the writer said it reminded him of the famous picture 
in her Majesty's gallery, " The Rape of the Sabines." (I 
have never seen the picture, but presume it is that of a 
beautiful female poised as a central figure, and about ten 
soldiers ready to embrace her on a given signal.) Things 
have changed, however, and this season the meals will be 
served on the American plan, run by the company, who 
have secured the best stewards, etc., to superintend the 
service to the end, that everyone may be pleased. The 
upper saloon will not be used, but what was formerly known 



82 

as the ladies' cabin will be the dining-room, which gives the 
whole saloon as a promenade and place of repose and rest 
for the passengers. I am positive the change will be ac 
ceptable. 

About a mile below Morrisburg, on the right, is Goose- 
neck Island, so called from its resemblance to the neck of 
a goose ; the upper end is the neck ; the narrative is about 
nine miles long. Five miles from Morrisburg to 

CHRYSLER'S FARM, 

memorable for the battle fought on this ground in the year 
1813. The Americans were the attacking party on this oc- 
casion, having arisen early in the morning, crossed the river 
into the Uttle bay, landed, and immediately gone into the 
contest by attacking the Httle house. The fight was des- 
perate, lasting until eleven o'clock, when the Americans, 
under General Williams, were repulsed with great slaughter. 
The house was completely riddled with bullets. It has since 
been torn down, and the chimney left as a monument to 
the battle. They retreated in good order, re-crossed the 
river, and remained, having abandoned the trip to Montreal 
which they intended. I draw this mild, because I am one 
of " God's people " myself. 

Next in interest is Farron's Point, opposite which is 
Croyl's Island. Six minutes from here to Long Sault 
Rapids ; we pass on the left Harrison's Landing. 

LONG SAULT ISLAND. 

At this point there are really two channels, the American 
channel being on the right of Long Sault Island, the rapids 
forming the Canadian channel, and are on the left of the 



83 

island. The distinguishing feature about the American 
channel is while it is swift in current, it has no rapids worthy 
of note, and the channel is used for tows, etc., and all the 
rafts naturally prefer this way, because it would be impos 
sible for them to go down the Long Sault. 

In the distant front observe a light-house at the head of 
the Cornwall canal. This canal is twelve miles in length, 
and passes around the Long Sault Rapids. 

The boats are steered from landmarks on shore ; by that 
small ball you see on the end of the pole, which is the bow- 
sprit. The target that you see in the distance is used by 
ihe pilot to get his position in Long Sault Rapids. These 
tai'gets will be seen frequently as you progress, and as they 
all answer the same purpose, this reference to them will 
suffice. 

LONG SAULT RAPIDS. 

Dickinson's Landing on the left was formerly a very im- 
portant point on this line, as it was the foot of navigation 
before the canal was completed some forty years ago. Few 
changes have taken place since, that are apparent to the 
eye. The Long Sault is the first one of the first-class rapids, 
and the third one in line proceeding down the river, and as 
we set a price on the other two, you can set your own price 
on this one. A description of these rapids has been given 
from time immemorial ; it does not behoove us to give any 
graphic or colored description of this scene, although we 
might do so satisfactorily, having seen depicted on the 
countenances of thousands of passengers who have passed 
this way everything in nature from the sublime to the ridicu- 



M 

lous as well as between the two, and as each individual's 
feehngs differ, no one description would do the subject jus- 
tice. One writer said, " it was like sliding down hill on a 
steamboat." Another said he felt as if he was being ungliied ! 
A third said he felt as if he had taken a large dose of epecac. 
Still another as if he was on a ship at sea in a storm. 
And yet one more was so exhilerated that he imagined he 
owned Maud S. and would Uke to spend his days on the 
rapids. Another party who had ridiculed the trip a good 
deal, until the spray began to cover the deck, wetting them 
to the skin, drenching their store clothes, which, when dried, 
revealed awkward misfits, exclaimed that "it was the grand- 
est sight they ever witnessed," 

AN INCIDENT WORTHY OF NOTE 

Occurred at this point on the right hand side of the rapids. 
Mr. Isaac Johnson and wife, of Spuyten Duyval, N. Y., and 
some friends were in the habit of coming to this section 
once every year, (as he also is at a great many other places 
in this country), which is noted for its fishing, being quite an 
enthusiast in the art. His guide, however, this year had 
built a new boat much larger than of previous years, conse- 
quently they ventured a little farther into the boiling caldron 
of remorseless strife and were upset, (just take a view of the 
position dear reader,) lucky for Mr. Johnson he always car- 
ries a rubber bag which he uses for a cushion whenever he 
is required to sit long in a boat, being a heavy man as well 
as tall. His first thought was to grasp the cushion, which 
acted as a life preserver ; his wife clung to his neck, which 
forced him under water and in order to get breath he forced 
the cushion under water which allowed his head to appear 



85 

above the wave and current, in this way they floated two 
miles and were rescued by the guide and boat coming along, 
and with clasped hands over the overturned boat were 
towed to shore. Mr. Johnson became bUnd and fainted 
from exhaustion, his plucky little wife was as firm and cool 
as a soldier under fire. 

I could enlarge upon other descriptions, but prefer to give 
the Phat Boy a privilege to relate a few facts — no " taffy." 
All the boats of this line are built of Bessemer steel or iron, 
with three and one-half inches of elm rivited close to the 
iron on the bottom outside to prevent accidents if we should 
strike against a rock. This precaution was found necessary, 
because the first iron boat that struck a rock became a total 
wreck. With the protection of elm no injury has resulted 
from the occasional striking of the boats against the rocks. 
There is no danger, however, in this rapid, for the water in 
the shallowest place is thirteen and one-half feet, and we 
are drawing about seven feet. During our passage through 
all the rapids, we have four men at the wheel, and four men 
at the tiller aft, who assist the men at the wheel. Any ac- 
cident that should happen to the chain or the wheel, the 
pilot immediately goes to the right hand of the tiller. 

The Long Sault rapid is nine miles in length ; three miles 
of boisterous commotion : six miles of current and sudden, 
sharp turns. When we first enter the rapid, the steam on 
board of the boat is slowed down until she gets her position 
in the rapids, as she draws less water than when under full 
head of steam. We are then compelled to put on full steam 
as the boat must go faster than the current in order to ob- 
tain steerage way. Many suppose that no steam is used 



86 

through the rapids, which is an error. If we were to at- 
tempt to go down without any propelHng power, we would 
be at the mercy of the current of this stupendous agitation 
called rapids. One couldn't tell which end of the boat 
would be first, and it is presumable that this would be any- 
thing but pleasant to the passenger, for he would go down 
the same as a log, no one could tell which end of the boat 
would be first, anything but pleasure to pa^engers. 

When we first enter this rapid, the finest view is obtained 
on the right side of the boat. It is expected, however, that 
the passengers will distribute themselves equally on either 
side to keep the boat in good trim ; the Captain generally 
uses the " Phat Boy " for this purpose ; when he is not on 
board, the passengers are expected to distribute themselves. 
The view, however, soon changes to the left, and when 
nearing the point, the swell and white caps run from seven 
to eleven feet in height. 

We have already explained the causes of the rapids. 
Now, will any one please explain to me what is the height 
of the rocks which create this commotion, and at the same 
time set their price on this rapid. After passing this point 
and the swell and white caps that we have been describing, 
on the left is the passage to the Canadian channel of this 
river, which forms Earnhardt's island. On the right is the 
American channel. This was formerly used by boats before 
they came down the Long Sault, which for a long time was 
knov,'n as the lost channel. This channel having been lost 
for some years it was discovered by Captain Rankin, who 
received for that service a magnificent silver watch, the 
value of which at the present day would be about $6.50. 



87 

The first steamboat of this line that passed through the 
Long Sault, was the Passport, in 1847, and the pilot was 
W. H. McGanon, who is still in the employ of the company. 
The soundings were made by scows and rafts, with poles 
attached to the sides, of 8 to 15 feet in length, and as either 
of these met an obstruction and became dislodged or broken 
off, the depth of water was ascertained and a record made. 
The propelling power of these scows or rafts was oars or 
large paddles, worked by from 10 to 40 men as the necessi- 
ties of each required. 

The steamer Gill was the first boat through the rapids, 
and went down more by accident than otherwise, but it 
demonstrated the certainty of a channel. 

Earnhardt's island on the left, 7^ miles in length by 4^- 
miles in width, belongs to the United States. On the right 
is the main land, St. Lawrence county, N. Y. Both sides 
of the river for the next seven miles belong to the United 
States. The King of Holland, who was the arbitrator of 
the treaty of 181 2, from charts, maps, etc., furnished him, 
supposed that the main channel of the river passed around 
that island on the left. He was mistaken, however; this is 
the main channel of the river, and the only navigable one ; 
the Canadian channel containing only about 3^ or 4 feet of 
water. 

Durmg the next eight minutes we pass three very sudden 
turns in the river ; the first turn is to the right ; then to the 
left; next to the right again; the second turn being the 
sharpest on the St. Lawrence river ; at direct angles turning 
to the left. Passengers on the left side of the boat, by look- 
ing backward, have a fine view of that portion of the river 



88 

we have just passed, and looking forward see where we are 
compelled to go, and more easily note the sharpness of the 
turn. Rafts entering the American channel at the foot of 
the Long Sault rapids will drift nine miles in forty minutes, 
and are often thrown on shore on either side in making this 
sudden turn. After making our next turn to the right, by 
looking in the distance front, between the narrow point, will 
discover what is known as "The Crab." The current 
crosses here from right to left, then left to right, and from 
right to left forming the letter Z. Rafts get entangled in 
this portion of the river, and are easily torn to pieces. 

There is a ferry boat plys between this point, on the right 
Macenia point and Cornwall point on the left, touching at 
two places on Earnhardt's island, to convey passengers who 
are desirous of visiting Macena Springs, six miles distant. 
The steamboat is a side-wheeler, two horses tread the power 
that revolves the wheels ; it is therefore a two-horse power 
boat ; they convey the steam on board in a bag well filled 
with oats. The deck hand is the cook ; the cook is the 
engineer ; the engineer is the mate, and the mate is the cap- 
tain ; one man supreme command ; no mutiny ever occurs, 
unless the mule should kick the deck hand overboard — that 
would be a " mu/ity" would it not 7 

On the left is the entrance to the Canadian channel at 
the end of Earnhardt's island. Two miles below on the 
right is the last of the American shore on the St. Lawrence, 
lat. 45*^ N. Some few years ago I was presented by Messrs. 
W. H. Merrill & Co., 88 St. James St., Montreal, one of the 
dry goods firms in the city, with an American flag, fifteen 
feet in length, to designate the last of the United States 



89 

shore on this river. Through the assistance of a friend at 
Cornwall, and thirteen dollars in cash, I succeeded in get- 
ting the flag in position. It remained there for about ten 
days, when a party of St. Regis Indians, who occupy a re- 
servation six miles distant the other side of the Island — four 
of them came over to the point, filled themselves full of 
" ice water," climbed up the flag-staff and took down the 
flag. They cut it up into three or four suits of clothes, and 
went around this vicinity for about a week as full as a boiled 
oyster, singing " Hail Columbia, right side up," rolled up 
in the Stars and Stripes, full of fire-water, was said to be 
the happiest moment of their lives, and I have no reason to 
doubt it. 

That portion of the river on the right is the dividing hne 
for five miles; afterwards an iron fence or posts, set at 
equal distance apart, mark the boundary Hne. The river 
passing around that way forms Cornwall Island, about six 
miles wide. Rafts enter this portion of the river where the 
Racket River empties in, and are here refitted preparatory 
to being towed through the lake. Both sides of the river 
from this point downward belong to the Dominion of 
Canada. 

In the distance, on the left is Cornwall, a village of 5,000 
people, with the largest cotton and woolen mills in the 
Dominion. Since the protective tarifl" was inaugurated by 
the Dominion Parliament these industries have thrived won- 
derfully, and the town is correspondingly prosperous. Just 
before landing, a fine view is obtained of both the old and 
new Cornwall Canals. Looking at the old canal lock, and 
learning its dimensions, it is obvious why the steamers are 
their present size and no longer. These steamers are the 



90 

limit which the locks will admit, hence if they were five feet 
longer or a trifle wider, they would be compelled to remain 
at Montreal, not being able to work through the locks. The 
new canal, which is alongside of the old one, will have locks 
loo feet longer than the present one in use, consequently 
much larger boats will be able to ply the river. The old 
canal was considered amply large when built ; it was not 
supposed that the travel on the St. Lawrence would ever 
reach its present and constantly increasing numbers. 

After leaving Cornwall, on the right is Cornwall Island, 
6 miles wide. Just beyond the island, on the right bank of 
the river, is St. Regis, an old Indian village, which cannot 
be seen from the deck of the steamer. But there is just 
one point where the church roof can be observed for a mo 
ment or so. There is, however, a tradition worth relating 
here : The bell hanging in this church is associated 
with a deed of genuine Indian revenge. On its way from 
France it was captured by an English cruiser and taken 
into Salem, Massachusetts, where it was sold to the church 
at Deerfield, in the same State. The Indians, hearing of 
the destination of their bell, set out for Deerfield, attacked 
the town, killed forty-seven of the inhabitants, and took 112 
captives, among whom was the pastor and his family. 
The bell was then taken down and conveyed to St. Regis, 
where it now hanjrs. 



O" 



During the next 10 miles of our trip the river is beauti- 
fully studded with Islands, and resembles the Thousand 
Islands scenery very much. Many of these islands are in- 
habited ; some of them elegantly laid out with drives, etc. 
Rev. Mr. Dickinson's, called after himself, has a dock, at 



91 

which steamers of this size can land ; it has a hotel, num- 
ber of cottages, and is quite a gay place in summer. On 
the left is Summers Town, beyond which is Hamilton's 
Island. Just before reaching Summers Town is the resi- 
dence of Captain Cameron, of the Cultivature of this Hne ; 
beyond is the magnificent villa of Hon. Caribou Cameron,, 
the finest on the St. Lawrence. It is built of Ohio free- 
stone, and cost $80,000. Hamilton Island, on the left, is 
occupied every summer by camping parties, who come from 
great distances, even from Virginia and Ohio, and remain 
two, three, and even four months. Day after day, one of 
their principal amusements is rowing out in their small 
boats, awaiting the arrival of the steamers, and then 
swiftly riding on top of the swell that is occasioned by. the 
wheels of the steamer. The scene is exciting and pictur- 
esque On the right, we have now a fine view of the 
Adirondack Mountains of northern New York, and beyond 
the Green Mountains of Vermont, except it be a smoky or 
misty day, when the view is slightly obscured. It is 56 
miles from the river to the mountains, and intervening is 
the wilderness of the State *of New York, known as the John 
Brown tract, more famous as the hunting ground of adven- 
turous gunnmg and fishing parties. 

Continuing our course, we pass three small islands and 
enter Lake St. Francis, 28 miles in length — a very pictur- 
esque sheet of water indeed ; but the trip through the lake 
is quite monotonous, therefore, for the next two hours, the 
guide, as well as the passengers, can " take a rest." This 
being a favorite route for honeymoon parties, there is now 
two full hours for these couples to enjoy the " honey " or 



92 

the " moon,"' as seemeth to them best. After making this 
announcement one day, 53 left the deck ; one. however, was 
an old bachelor, who went to curl his hair. 

BOYS ON A STEAMER. 

Here is a genuine. His parents are with him ; he can- 
not keep still ; he wants chiefly to break his neck or fall 
overboard, or to get crushed by the walking-beam ; he has 
been twice dragged from the steps leading to the walking- 
beam, used by the assistant engineer for lubricating pur- 
poses ; he would Hke to get in the paddle boxes, has talked 
every officer on board to death, and is now trying his best 
to worry the deck hands. How curiously constructed is a 
real boy, to go whither he should not, and especially where 
his anxious mother most fears he will go ; he is now doing 
his best to spoil his parents trip. We can leave him for a 
moment ; he won't flag in his endeavor to get into trouble 
or to make his parents miserable. 

This is a smaUer boy — not yet out of his petticoats, but 
very active ; he, too, has with him an anxious mother ; he 
has found another boy — a strange boy — of the same size 
and sex ; they have become acquainted ; the strange boy is 
allowed by his parents to roam about the boat at will ; he 
invites the nice little boy to roam also ; he wants him to 
roam as near the walking-beam as possible ; he has roamed 
there himself before and escaped ; he tells the nice little boy 
how cunning it is to come near being crushed ; the nice 
little boy's mother forbids any roaming at all ; she looks 
with disfavor on the strange boy ; but the strange boy con- 
tinues to hang around ; he knows, so does the nice boy, 



93 

together they can fool any one mother ; united they standi 
divided they fall ; now the nice boy edges away from the 
side of his mother, for her energies are momentarily con- 
centrated on the set of her bonnet and the nice-looking 
gentleman at the other end of the saloon who is taking side 
glances at her through the mirror. Now the nice boy gets 
farther away ; they are on the forbidden part of the deck, 
near the walking beam. It is great fun. Now the cross 
man who keeps order on the deck drives them away. They 
go to the news agent's stand and help themselves to any- 
thing, on the table when he is not looking. They are now 
running in and out of the state rooms, where the passengers 
have gone to take a Httle rest, getting in everybody's way ; 
it is a wonder they haven't been killed twenty times. It is 
great fun for the boys, but almost death to the passengers. 
And the mother is still so occupied with her bonnet and the 
dude who has made a mash or favorable impression upon 
her that she has not missed her nice little boy. 

In the center of the lake, on the left, is the village of 
Lancaster, an old Scotch settlement. Just before reaching 
the village, what appears to be a stack of hay, but what is 
commonly known throughout Scotland as a Cairn. It is 
no more or less than a heap of stones in a rounded or coni- 
cal form, placed in that way to commemorate some especial 
historic event. This one was built by the Glengarry High- 
landers in 1847, to perpetuate the memory of Sir John Col- 
burn, who was Commander-in-Chief of the Army and Gov- 
ernor-General of the Province. It was built by putting 
cobble-stones one on top of the other— each individual in- 
habitant or stranger passing that way adding a stone. See 



94 

Queen Victoria's Book, where she describes helping to build 
a Scotch Cairn with the assistance of John Brown, and one 
will get a better idea of how to build a Cairn. The county 
in which this place is located is named Glengarry, and is 
mainly or almost wholly inhabited by the sturdy Scotch 
highlanders, whose farms are of the finest in the Dominion. 
This is the last English speaking village on the route. 

Passing three Hghthouses, showing that the channel across 
the lake is quite intricate, we leave St. Anisette on the 
right, a small French town. We are now approaching the 
boundary line between the provinces of Ontario and Que- 
bec. The lighthouses on either side show the geographical 
divisions. From the lighthouse on the left the line runs 
straight to the Ottawa river ; then the Ottawa becomes the 
dividing hue. Just before arriving at the foot of the lake, 
where the river re-forms, we pass San Zotique ; next Coteau 
landing, where we call for the purpose of taking on a pilot, 

EDWARD WILLETT, 

whose duty it is to pilot this line of boats through the next 
series of rapids. We are coming to four rapids : first, the 
Coteau ; second, Cedar ; third, Split Rock, and fourth, the 
Cascades. The Canada Atlantic Railroad running from 
Ottawa, the capital of the Dominion, to Coteau Landing, 
the railroad ferry at this point conveys whole trains to 
Valley Field, where connections are made for Boston and 
New York — the shortest route from the capital to those 
points. On the extreme right at the foot of the lake is the 
village of Valley Field. It is at the head of the Beauhornias 
Canal, ii^ miles in length, which passes around this series 



95 

■of rapids. The river, in i i-J miles, has a fall of 84 feet. 
The finest water power privilege on the continent of Amer- 
ica, except Niagara, is at this point. The largest cotton 
mill in the Dominion, the Canada Paper Go's mill, and 
several other manufacturing establishments are located at 
Valley Field. After leaving St. Francis Lake, we re-enter 
the river. With our pilot we go down the small rapid known 
as the Coteau, passing Prisoner's island on the left, and on 
the left bank is the old French village of Coteau du Lac. 
On the extreme left at the point is an old French fort, 
where battles were fought in 181 2 and 1813 ; the earthworks 
are still in a good state of preservation, behind which is the 
old saw-mill. Twenty minutes (or five miles) from this point 
to the Cedar rapids, then you will see der Rapid that is a 
Rapid, the most Rapid Rapid of all the Rapids, opposite 
the rapid is the village of Cedar on the left and St. Timothy 
on the right, the Cedar rapid the finest upon the St. Law- 
rence River. Look at St. Timothy, bear in mind the view 
you had of Morrisburg ; the impression of its beauty and 
thrift, and now you have the comparison. How does the 
former strike you as against the latter? It is a historic fact, 
and worthy of note, that no matter what town you arrive at 
in the province of Quebec, this will be apparent to the eye ; 
the finest buildings in the place will be the church, nunnery, 
school, hospital or priest's residence. Aside from these, the 
rest are all about alike. You cannot tell the palace resi- 
dence from ^the blacksmith's shop, or the grocery store from 
the hotel. The church at St. Timothy has a seating ca- 
pacity of 1,500 ; the population of the village is 600 ; the 
church is always full on Sundays, and as Mark Twain ex- 
claimed, " What large domes these worshippers must have 



96 

to their pantaloons for 600 to fill a place capable of seating 
1,500." But they come from all the country around, being 
all of one persuasion. An opposition church is so far un- 
known in these rural parts, hence it may be inferred what 
the extraordinary power of this old church must be in the 
lower province. 

Speaking to one of the priests one day regarding the 
amount of money collected by them from the poor to build 
and maintain their institutions, I asked him how it was, and 
he remarked that the millions have more money than the 
millionaires, and by getting the dollar from the poorer 
classes they had the million, which the millionaires never 
give up. 

Just before arriving at St. Timothy, we enter the Cedar 
rapid and pass a distance of three and one-half miles in the 
extraordinary short time of seven minutes. By casting your 
eye shoreward, while passing an island on the left, and just 
before we enter the heaviest part of the rapid, you will dis- 
cover how fast the boat is going. Looking to the right, you 
will see Hell's hole, and the greatest commotion in the river 
from Kingston to the Gulf. 

Leaving Cedar rapid which is the most picturesque and 
beautiful (in our estimation) of all, two and one-half miles 
further along, and passing Bockey Hayes' shoal, which is a 
peculiar formation in the bed of the river, making naviga- 
tion somewhat dangerous. In illustration : one day the 
steamer Corsican suddenly lurched to the left, and evidently 
struck a rock, whereupon the captain said to the pilot, 
" Edward, you are a little too far over to the left." Before 
he could conn)lete the sentence, the boat lurched to the 



97 

right and struck another rock ; then the pilot repUed, " yes, 
and a Httle too far over to the right side. It is plain that 
the channel about here is at least precarious. The govern- 
ment engineers, however, are now at work removing these 
dangerous obstructions. The Napoleon hats you see in the 
distance, on poles about ten feet high, are the marks which 
enable the pilot to obtain his true bearings through the 
shoal. Turning to the right we come in sight of the SpHt 
Rock rapid, the most dangerous rapid of all. When we 
speak of danger, we don't mean to hfe or Hmb, as no per- 
son was ever injured on this rapid; it is danger to property 
that we refer to, as this is the only one of the series that has 
cost the company one dollar. They lost one steamboat 
here, and have had others upon the rocks. On the 8th of 
July, 1874, the steamer Corinthian, of the R. O. N. Co., 
when passing the Split Rock rapid, was almost instantly en- 
veloped by a terrific thunder shower, accompanied by a hur- 
ricane. The wind was so powerful that the boat refused to 
answer the helm, and instead of turning to the right, as she 
should, the wind caused her to go straight ahead, and we 
struck a rock forward about five feet high and passed fifteen 
feet aft of the wheel over the same, and then stopped. I 
was upon the right hand side of the boat explaining to the 
passengers and showing or pointing oat to them the ledge 
of rock when she struck. Immediately four ladies caught 
hold of me (whom they thought was the boss life preserver). 
What a position for a nice young man. I was about to ex- 
claim as my friend A. Ward did when he was surrounded 
by 20 of Brigham Young's wives, " I hope your intentions 
are honorable." However, through the assistance of some 
friends, I procured life preservers for them and was released 



98 

from my somewhat precarious position. In a space of an 
hour most of the passengers were landed by the aid of the 
ship's boats and battaus from the shore, and proceeded by 
rail to Montreal, where they arrived the same evening. I 
remained on board all night until a derrick was erected and 
two of the boats lashed together, and a platform built upon 
them, when I was let down by the aid of the derrick upon 
the same, and without further trouble taken to shore in 
safety. The second line of white-caps which you see in the 
distance in front, is the Split Rock, a ledge of rock running 
from shore to shore, with the exception of a break of about 
sixty feet, which is a natural split in the rock. Formerly 
there was only a depth of nine feet of water ; it was blasted 
out, and now gives a navigable channel of thirteen and one- 
half feet. Passengers, by looking into the water on the 
right side of the boat, can see the ledge we have been talk- 
ing about. 

One and a half miles from here to the Cascade, the last 
of this series of four, and the last but one on the river — 
the Lachine being the last. The Cascade differs from all 
the rest, being a cutting, chopping sea, m which the boats 
are wrenched more than in any other rapid. On the right 
is the village of Melocheville, at the foot of the Beauhornois 
canal, eleven and one-half miles in length, that passes 
around this line of rapids. The boats of this and all other 
lines are compelled to pass through this canal, as none of 
them could ascend this line of rapids. 

We are now thirty miles by water and twenty-four miles 
by land from Montreal. In the distance in front, is Mount 
Royal or Montreal mountain. The park mountain drive, 



99 

the most famous drive in the world, is up the brow of this 
mountain through a park. On the left is II Perot Island, 
formed by the two channels of the Ottawa. The one we 
now see comes by St. Anns, where Moore wrote his famous 
Canadian boat song. A resident of St. Anns, Lieutenant- 
Colonel Dowker, says that every spring the freshets of the 
Ottawa cause the water to come down into the St. Lawrence 
with such force as to cause an eddy to pass up the point of 
the island and pass down the navigable channel of the 
Ottawa, and he can take a pail from his house, Chateau 
Blanc (where the famous poet Moore resided while at St. 
Anns and wrote his Canadian ])oems), proceed down to the 
river and dip up a pail of pure clear St. Lawrence water. 
Meeting Col. Dowker last spring, he told me that the fresh- 
ets of the Ottawa in March and April, 1885, were the most 
alarming and disastrous ever known. The sudden break- 
ing up of the ice caused a jam. Houses were moved from 
their foundations, cattle and sheep crushed to jelly by the 
ice and many drowned; the ice piled mountains high. The 
government had an agent in the vicinity relieving the dis- 
tressed inhabitants. The heavy flow of ice by the freshets 
in the Ottawa caused a jam a little below Montreal this 
year, consequently flooded the city, causing much damage 
to life and property. The oldest church in the upper Pro- 
vince and old forts are to be seen here. 

On the left a portion of the Ottawa empties into the St. 
Lawrence. This is not, however, the main channel ; the 
navigable portion of the river is just the other side of II 
Perrot. Note the difference between the color of the two 
waters ; they are as wide apart as green is from purple. 
The water of the Ottawa is of a dark brown color, caused 



by passing over low, marshy, peat bed soils, and the huge 
forests through which this river passes, the leaves falling and 
rotting, and swept along by the freshets, doubtless dye the 
water to the peculiar color observable. The waters of the 
two rivers do not readily mix, and each are distinct for 
many miles. 

In the distance is Lake St. Louis, or Lachine Lake, 15 
miles from the rapids to the foot of the lake, where we 
arrive at Lachine, on the left, and Caughnawaga on the 
right. The latter is the residence of the Indian pilot, St. 
Jean Baptiste, who takes this line of boats down the 
Lachine Rapids. 

About halfway through the lake on the right we come to 
Nun's Island. That mound or elevation of ground which 
you see was a fort in 181 2, and English and American 
war-like parties met in sanguinary contest around here. It 
commands the entrance to the Chateaugay River. The 
village of Chateaugay is about 6 miles back. The Nmi's 
Island belongs to the Grey Nuns, of Montreal, who have 
a hospital for their own sick, and the spot is marked by a 
large cross emblematic of their order. 

Fifteen minutes from here we are in sight of Caughna- 
waga, where we take on board the Indian pilot, who has 
become of historical interest to tourists, as it was he who 
discovered the channel and took the first of this line down, 
August 19, 1840, and has been in the employ of the com- 
pany ever since. He is 70 years old, weighs 240 pounds, 
and stands 6 feet high. Many of the passengers imagine 
he is the only pilot who can take a boat through the 
Lachine Rapids. This is not correct, for we have other 



lOI 

pilots who can ; but as he is paid for this especial service, 
they resign most cheerfully in his favor. He has never had an 
accident; and the company believe in holding to that which 
is good, and therefore "stick to the old man." He will 
emerge from shore in a small boat, accompanied by his two 
sons. They row him to the steamers ; he comes on board, 
and the boys row home again. He remains on board till 
the next morning, takes the first train for Lachine, where 
he is met by the boys, who take him home in the row-boat. 
The Indian pilot's name is St. Jean Baptiste de Lisle ; his 
Indian name, Ta ya ka, meaning in the U. S. language that 
"he will cross the river," but does not; he goes down the 
rapids. He has a family of six children, three boys and 
three girls. The girls are unmarried. I state this for the 
benefit of the young men on board, as the Indian pilot says 
he wants a " heap Yankee" for his girls. I am engaged to 
my Mary Jane, and they can't have me. 

Here the Indian pilot comes on board — a description of 
Caughnawaga would not be amiss. Note the line of pala- 
tial residences along the bank beyond the church, the win- 
dows and doors kicked out to give them hght and air, the 
palace gardens in the front part of the back end of the house. 
The laundry of Caughnawaga is usually hung on the fence ; 
it is not wash day to-day, as you can perceive. The bath- 
house is the whole water-front, but it is seldom used. The 
water-works is that barrel on the shore. The fair damsel 
waving her hly white hand is Mary Jane, my best girl. She 
comes out every day to welcome me, as she thinks I am on 
board. You can get her eye and have a flirtation, the same 
as I have had for years, and not make me jealous. That 
large brick structure is the centennial building, built during 



the centennial year by the celebrated Indian Chief, White 
Kicker. I think they use him to kick the windows and 
doors out of the palatial residences previously spoken of. 

Caughnawaga, signifying " Praying Indian " (my friend 
Ben Butler says they spell it with an e), is well laid out for 
an Indian village, with a population of 900, all Indians ; no 
whites can live here. 

The finest crops raised in this section of the country are 
raised just below Caughnawaga. They raise them with a 
derrick. It is a blasted crop, however, and of no use until 
it is. This notable quarry is where most of the stone comes 
from for the construction of the locks in the new Lachine 
Canal — the entrance of which is at Lachine, the village 
just passed at the foot of the lake on the left. 

THE VILLAGE OF LACHINE 

is a favorite resort for Montrealers in summer. The in- 
habitants number about 2,000. but it is frequently augment- 
ed in the season to 9,000 or 10,000. Note the large build- 
ings, which are the church, Villa de Marie Convent, the 
School and University for the education of priests. 

Our Indian pilot being on board, he will now show his 
Injin-uity in piloting a boat down the Lachine Rapids. 
Before reaching the rapids, the tourist can see the aqueduct 
that supplies the city of Montreal with water. 

THE LACHINE RAPIDS 

differ from all the rest; it is simply an intricate channel 
through rock. Take your position upon either side of the 



I03 

boat and you will know when we come to the most impor- 
tant point, as the boat will be headed direct for a little 
island, which is nothing more nor less than a few loads of 
dirt upon a huge ledge of rock. Keep your eye upon the 
bow of the boat and you will be led to exclaim, why we are 
going to strike the island; and if you are a betting person or 
a truthful one, you would almost swear we could not help 
but strike ; but when within less than ten feet we make a 
very sudden turn to the right, with a grand pitch or lurch,, 
in which you will think the boat drops ten feet. We pass 
alongside of a ledge of rocks for about half a mile, to see 
which you must be upon the right hand side of the boat ; 
at the end of this ledge of rock we have a perfect miniature 
Niagara, a httle water-fall for a cent. Do not allow the 
lurching of the boat from side to side, to cause you any un- 
easiness as there is no danger, because a side wheel boat 
has guards from four to ten feet projecting over on each 
side from the hull, 60 to 90 feet long, so that when that 
flat surface strikes the water by lurching that is as far as 
she can go, therefore, will always righten herself immediately. 
I have had a great deal of sport in this way. When the 
boat had lurched over as far as she could I would immedi- 
ately exclaim : " Oh ! I am on the wrong side," and proceed 
to the high side, when the boat would immediately righten 
up and the passengers would think I did it, but she would 
have Tightened without my aid. Yet I have heard some 
veiy strong-minded women, after seeing the effect of my 
moving to the high side of the boat, exclaim : " Put that 
big man off ; he has too much weight, to be upon a boat in 
the rapids " This is the last rapid built on the St. Law- 
rence, you can have it the best one if you Uke and I will not 



I04 



FAMOUS FOR ONE-THIRD OF A CENTURY. 




AWRENCE Ma 



NIONTREAL, 



Is so arranged tliat rooms used for guests are onlr one flight above the 
GRAND OL,D PARLORS, which are just one flight of stairs from 
St. James Street. This item of rooms below the clouds, with plenty of light 
and air. is worthy of attention. The new Ladies" Entrance, Grand Drawing 
Room Parlors and Suits of Rooms just added, the last furnished, there- 
fore the best in the city. 

THE ST. LAWRENCE HALL 

Occupies a frontage on St. James Street 180 feet, on St. Francis Xarier 
Street 145 feet, on Craig Street 180 feet, and on St. George Street 110 feet, in 
the very heart of the city, opposite the new Post Office. Thus 

From $2 to $5 is Saved from Hack Hire Alone. 

The only first-class hotel located within one mile of the Post Office and all 
the public buildings. Its table, unequalled by any in the Dominion. The 
Hotel is supplied with Cream. Milk. Butter and Vegetables from its own 
farm, fresh every day. 

Only one block from the French Cathedral. Two blocks from 

Victoria Square. Only two blocks from the Theatre 

Royal. Within two blocks of all the Business 

and Dry Goods Palaces. 

The nearest firet-class Hotel to the depots and steamboat landings. Every 
place worthy of note to the tourist is within fifteen minutes walk of the St. 
Lawrence Hall, except those you see in your Park Mountain Drive. This 
hotel was the home of all royal and notable personages who visited Mon- 
treal for thirty years. It has all the modern improvements. Elevator, Gas 
and Electric Lights, Hot and Cold Water. Electric Bells, Rooms En -Suite, 
with Bath and Closets on every floor. Spacious, clean and well ventilated 
rooms. Tbe best Ijeds of any hotel in the city. The prices are graduated. 
All under the personal supervision of 

MR. HENRY HOGAN. 



I05 

quarrel with you for it. All I ask you to do is to stop at 
the hotels who advertise in my book and tell them I was the 
cause, and if they do not treat you well I will proceed to 
sit down upon them, and they will never have occasion to 
treat any one else badly. Passing the foot of the rapids a 
first view of Montreal on the left, and on the right is the 
village of La Prairie. The first mountain on the left is 
Mount Bruno ; second, Belleisle ; the third, St. Pie. The 
next and last sensation on the trip is passing under 

VICTORIA BRIDGE, 

the largest and longest tubular bridge in the world ; was 
built by Mr. Stephenson in i860 for the Grand Trunk Rail- 
road, by which it is owned and controlled. It is a mile and 
three-quarters of iron, two miles and a quarter with its ap- 
proaches from shore. It is wholly of iron, top, bottom and 
sides — an iron tunnel or box, as it were. There are twenty- 
four abutments, built wedge shaped (to crush the immense 
ice fields that pass through this section, which, previous to 
the building of the bridge, did immense damage to Mon- 
treal during the spring freshets. There are no such things as 
freshets on the St. Lawrence, the Ottawa flowing in some 
miles above causing such disasters), upon which rest the 
sections of iron. These spans are from 250 to 360 feet 
long each, and the center span is about 60 feet high. The 
bridge tubes are 16x22 feet. It contains no wagon road 
or foot path, and is used by the G T. R. and its connect- 
ing lines. The cost of this immense work was $6,250,000, 
about one half of which amount went to fatten the contract- 
ors. I was not one of them. I mention this on account 
of my size, and for fear some one might think I was wealthy. 



io6 

The bridge is constracted of sheets of iron with a two- 
inch edge turned up and riveted to each other. It is fast- 
ened to the center, loose on both ends on rollers, and is pro- 
vided with a sliding track, so that there is no danger by 
expansion or contraction to passing trains. It expands and 
contracts from three and one half to seven inches. The 
bridge is kept in thorough repair and well painted. The 
small holes, or perforations, in the sides of the bridge were 
originally intended to convey the smoke out, but found in- 
adequate for that purpose ; therefore, they caused to be 
erected a line of flues the whole length. Now if any smoke 
remains it is carried out in a nand basket. The two mov- 
able scaffolds you see are used by the workmen in repairing 
and painting. It is not a draw bridge, and as we pass 
under the center span, and not over it, you need not re- 
move your hat if you remain on the deck. After passing 
under the bridge you will have a magnificent view of 

MONTREAL HARBOR. 

The points of interest in the harbor will all be described 
to you as we pass over St. Lambert's shoal, a very danger- 
ous passage, previous to landing at the Quebec boat, where 
we transfer such passengers as desire to visit Quebec. The 
island you see front on the right is St. Helen's Isle, used 
by the citizens of Montreal for pleasure, picnic parties, etc. 
A ferry plys between the city and island every half hour^ 
from morning until 7 p m. On Sunday from 3,000 to 20,- 
000 persons visit the island, mostly French Canadians, 
three-fifths of whom comprise the population of Montreal. 
In the distant front on the left is the oldest church in Mon- 



I07 

treal ; to the left of that, the largest building with the dome^ 
is the Bonseccour Market and old City Hall. The new 
City Hall is that large building in the rear with the dome in 
the center and four columns — one in each corner. Across 
the road to the left, that long building is the Court House. 
At the head of Jacques Cartier Square is a magnificent col- 
umn erected to the memory of Admiral Lord Nelson. At 
the foot of the square hes a steamer of the Richelieu and 
Ontario Navigation Company. There are two steamers on 
this line, notably, the Montreal and Quebec. This com 
pany own twenty-one side-wheel boats. The Quebec line 
has the largest boats that float the St. Lawrence River ; 
they will compare favorably with the boats of the Sound or 
the Hudson River — triple-decked palace boats, built of 
Bessemer steel ; one has a capacity of 360 state rooms — the 
other 280. The distance to Quebec is 180 miles, and the 
fare on this line is only $2.50 — the cheapest on the continent. 
Beyond, on the left, the two massive towers you see belong 
to the French church of Notre Dame. It is not a Cathedral, 
but simply a parish church. (The Cathedral is on Domin- 
ion Square, in process of erection, and when complete, will 
be one-half the size of St. Peter's at Rome). It is the larg- 
est on the continent, and has contained within its walls front 
porch and stairways, on the 24th of June last (St. John's- 
day), twenty-two thousand souls. Beyond is the Custom 
House, with the clock in the tower, and still further up the 
examining warehouse of the Custom House, as well as the 
office, docks and steamers of the Allen Hne. The first stop 
is at Quebec boat ; passengers for Montreal remain on deck, 
as this line is compelled to enter the first lock in the La- 
chine canal ; the gates close and the water is allowed to 



io8 
Por Comfort, Safety and Convenience, Choose In Traveling, 



m\ M a a IS © jk m^^ 

WHICH FORMS ITS CONNECTION WITH THE 

Grand Trunk Railway. 

The Old and Favorite New England Route. 

TO AND FEOM ALL POINTS WEST. 



The Rolling Stock and Equipment of the CENTRA.L VERMONT R. R. is 
second to no road in the country. It is the only line running 

I^UIvLMAN SLEEPIXO CARS 

Between Chicago and Boston without change, and solid trains of Elegant 
Coaches and Baggage Cars, without change between Montreal and Boston. 

Steel Rails, Iron Bridges, with Westinghouse Air Brakes, 3Iilier Pla'form, 
Coupler and Buffer on every train, assures safety while passing swiftlv through 
Mountain, Lake and River Scenery of the most beautiful and varied description. 
The train service of this road is so arranged that sure connections are made 
with the Grand Ti-unk Railway, anri with railroads in New England to and from 
all the principal cities, towns and villages in 

Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut and Vermont^ 

Wagner Cars, Montreal to New York without change, 

Pullman Palace Cars run to Boston via this Line. 

Also first-class Restaurants with reasonable charges, and ample time given 
for meals. 

;:^^Baggage checked through Canada in Bond, avoiding all trouble of 
Customs. 

During the summer, EXCURSION TICKETS are sold over this line at greatly 
reduced rates. Ask for rates via this line before buying, and note that vour 
tickets read via CENTRAL VERMONT RAILROAD, for sale at all Stations and 
responsible Ticket Offices, East and West. 

COMPANY'S ()FFICES-2()0 Washington Street, Boston ; 317 Broadway, New 
York ; l.Sti St. James Street, Montreal. 

A. C. STONEGRAVE, Agent, 136 St. James Street, Montreal. 

J. W. HOBART, General Manager. 

S. W. CUMMINGS, General Passenger Agent. 



I09 

enter, which raises the boat to the level of the lock when 
the passengers are allowed to depart. Montreal is the com- 
mercial metropolis of the Dominion, with a population of 
150,000, three-fifths of which are French Canadians. The 
docks, piers, wharfs, etc., of Montreal are the finest on the 
continent. It is the second city of commercial importance 
— New York being first. Six steamship companies leave 
here weekly for Europe during the summer season and a 
large amount of business must of a necessity be done, as 
its channel is closed during five months of the winter. The 
water front is all lighted with the electric Hght, so that work 
is carried on during the summer months night and day. 
Having selected your hotel and arrived at the same, our 
next duty will be to see the sights of 

MONTREAL. 

It is situated at the head of navigation for ocean vessels^ 
540 miles from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, on the Island of 
Montreal, which lies between the two great rivers of the 
North, the St. Lawrence and the Ottawa. The island is 
about thirty two miles in length, and at its widest some ten 
in breadth ; it is so fertile as to be called the garden of the 
Province. The surface of the land is level with the excep- 
tion of the eminence of Mount Royal, which rises 550 feet 
above the river level. Mount Royal gives the name to the 
city which lies at its base. The settlement of the town was 
originally determined by the first explorer, Jacques Cartier^ 
in 1535, at which time an Indian village, Hochelaga, occu- 
pied the spot. The permanent founding of the place, how 
ever, did not occur until 1642, and in one hundred years of 
growth thereafter it gathered a population of 4,000. It was 



T lO 

under French rule until 1760, when it passed into the hands 
of the British. In 1832 the cholera raged in Montreal with 
great violence, carrying off 1,843 inhabitants in a population 
of about 30,000. In April, 1849, a poHtical mob burnt the Par- 
liament buildings, which were erected ou McGill street, and 
the seat of Government was, in consequence, transferred to 
Quebec, thence to Toronto, and finally to Ottawa, where it 
remains. In July, ^852, a destructive fire laid waste a large 
portion of the city, burning no houses, and consuming 
property valued at $1,400,000. Notwithstanding these re- 
verses the city recovered, and to-day numbers a population 
of 150,000. Years of industry and enterprise have produced 
growth and improvement in Montreal, such as but few 
American cities can boast of, and perhaps but one — Chicago 
— has exceeded. At the beginning of the present century 
vessels of more than 300 tons could not ascend to Montreal, 
and its foreign trade was carried on by brigs and barges. 
Now ocean steamships of over 4,000 tons, the floating pala- 
ces of the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company, and 
ships of from 700 to 4,000 tons from all parts of the world, 
occupy the wharves of the harbor, which are not equaled 
on this contment in point of substantial construction, con- 
venience and cleanliness. The old part of Montreal, near 
the river, has narrow incommodious streets ; but the new 
growth of the city toward Mount Royal has been liberally 
laid out, with wide and cheerful thoroughfares. The archi- 
tecture here is very tine ; the material chiefly used is a 
zinc-colored lime-stone, extensively quarried three miles 
from the city. The public buildings, banks, and principal 
warehouses are solid and handsome enough to adorn a Euro- 
pean cai)ital. The great wealth of the Roman Catholic 



Church- has enabled it to erect many magnificent churches, 
hospitals and convents, always in a very massive and en- 
duimg style. Other denominations seem to have been ex- 
cited by emulation, and vie with each other in the beauty 
and elegance of their places of worship. Among the evi- 
dences of the French origin of the city are to be noticed, a 
few curious old buildings to be found lingering here and 
there about Jacques Cartier Square, or occupying sites on 
the eastern part of the river front. The old houses are built 
somewhat Hke fortifications, and have heavily vaulted cel- 
lars, wherein treasure might be stored or a defense made 
against hostile foes, in the days when Indians and Whites, 
French and British were fighting and plundering each other. 
The French Canadians in the city, continue still to be a ht- 
tle more than half the population, and, although their lan- 
guage here has not been unaffected by the constant inter- 
course with English-speaking people, it is not, as commonly 
supposed, a patois^ but such French as was spoken by the 
polite and educated in France, when the emigrants who ' 
first settled Canada, left the shore of their mother-land. 
The naming of many of the streets of Montreal after saints 
and holy things reminds one that its founders were not ex- 
iles nor adventurers but enthusiastic missionaries. 

PLACES OF INTEREST. 

The Post Office is built on St. James street, the chief 
throughfare of this city, opposite the new St. Lawrence Hall. 
The reason I use the word new may be asked. Well, the 
hotel has been newly re fitted, the corner building pur- 
chased, one hundred elegant and commodious rooms added 



T lO 

under French rule until 1760, when it passed into the hands 
of the British. In 1832 the cholera raged in Montreal with 
great violence, carrying oft' 1,843 inhabitants in a population 
of about 30,000. In April, 1849, a political mob burnt the Par- 
liament buildings, which were erected on McGill street, and 
the seat of Government was, in consequence, transferred to 
Quebec, thence to Toronto, and finally to Ottawa, where it 
remains. In July, 1852, a destructive fire laid waste a large 
portion of the city, burning 110 houses, and consuming 
property valued at $1,400,000. Notwithstanding these re- 
verses the city recovered, and to-day numbers a population 
of 150,000. Years of industry and enterprise have produced 
growth and improvement in Montreal, such as but few 
American cities can boast of, and perhaps but one — Chicago 
— has exceeded. At the beginning of the present century 
vessels of more than 300 tons could not ascend to Montreal, 
and its foreign trade was carried on by brigs and barges. 
Now ocean steamships of over 4,000 tons, the floating pala- 
ces of the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company, and 
ships of from 700 to 4,000 tons from all parts of the world, 
occuj^y the wharves of the harbor, which are not equaled 
on this continent in point of substantial construction, con- 
venience and cleanliness. The old part of Montreal, near 
the river, has narrow incommodious streets ; but the new 
growth of the city toward Mount Royal has been liberally 
laid out, with wide and cheerful thoroughfares. The archi- 
tecture here is very fine ; the material chiefly used is a 
zinc-colored lime-stone, extensively quarried three miles 
from the city. The public buildings, banks, and principal 
warehouses are solid and handsome enough to adorn a Euro- 
pean capital. The great wealth of the Roman Catholic 



Church- has enabled it to erect many magnificent churches, 
hospitals and convents, always in a very massive and en- 
dunng style. Other denominations seem to have been ex- 
cited by emulation, and vie with each other in the beauty 
and elegance of their places of worship. Among the evi- 
dences of the French origin of the city are to be noticed, a 
few curious old buildings to be found lingering here and 
there about Jacques Cartier Square, or occupying sites on 
the eastern part of the river front. The old houses are built 
somewhat hke fortifications, and have heavily vaulted cel- 
lars, wherein treasure might be stored or a defense made 
against hostile foes, in the days when Indians and Whites, 
French and British were fighting and plundering each other. 
The French Canadians in the city, continue still to be a ht- 
tle more than half the population, and, although their lan- 
guage here has not been unaffected by the constant inter- 
course with Enghsh-speaking people, it is not, as commonly 
supposed, a patois^ but such French as was spoken by the 
polite and educated in France, when the emigrants who 
first settled Canada, left the shore of their mother-land. 
The naming of many of the streets of Montreal after saints 
and holy things reminds one that its founders were not ex- 
iles nor adventurers but enthusiastic missionaries. 

PLACES OF INTEREST. 

The Post Ofiice is built on St. James street, the chief 
throughfare of this city, opposite the new St. Lawrence Hall. 
The reason I use the word new may be asked. Well, the 
hotel has been newly re fitted, the corner building pur- 
chased, one hundred elegant and commodious rooms added 



112 

with baths and closets, electric bells and elevators, ladies'" 
reception room, new and elegantly furnished suits of rooms 
added this year. The old proprietor, Mr. Hogan, pro- 
nounced by connoisseurs to be the best landlord in the Do- 
minion, has assumed the proprietorship and has associated 
with him as manager, Mr. Samuel Montgomery, the best 
choice that could be made, as he is an American from the 
Pacific slope, where they know how to keep a hotel. I 
therefore cheerfully recommend you to stop at the new St. 
Lawrence Hall during your stay in Montreal. Starting 
from there, it being the centre, every point of interest is 
within fifteen minutes' walk of this hotel. The first building 
to the left is the new Post Ofiice, recently finished, with 
a richly decorated exterior, and every internal improve- 
ment which modern ingenuity has devised. Adjoining it 
is the Bank of Montreal, in the Corinthian style of architec- 
ture, with a sculpture on the pediment depicting native 
Indians, a sailor and settler with the emblems of the arts 
and trade. The corporation occupying this noble building 
is the richest one of the kind in America. It has branches 
in every town of importance in the Dominion, and has offi- 
ces in New York, Chicago and London. It issues letters of 
credit on all parts of the world. Its capital and reserve 
fund amount to $18,000,000. Adjoining the Bank of Mon- 
treal is the Canada Pacific Railroad office, a simple solid 
structure in the Doric style. Crossing the street a little 
above the corner on the right hand side is 88 St. James street, 
where W. H. Merrill & Co., have opened a new store for 
the sale of silks, velvets, laces, gloves, silk underwear and 
hosiery, they were formerly on Notre Dame street, but are 
now established at 88 St. James street, wliere they would be 



113 

glad to meet their old customers and as many new ones. 
Other banks having their offices on Place d'Arms are the 
Jacques Cartier, Ontario, Quebec and National Banks. On 
the south side of the square the great parish church of Notre 
Dame looms up. The dimensions of this vast Norman 
edifice are 225 feet in length, and 134 feet in width. Its 
towers are 220 feet high; the western one contains the 
largest bell in America, " Gros Bourdon," in weight 29,400 
pounds. The seating capacity of the church is 10,000. It 
has recently been decorated in deep colors and gold, after 
the manner of the St. Chapelle at Paris. Suspended over 
the western gallery, and near the grand altar, is an immense 
wooden crucifix. This was brought from France two cen- 
turies ago, and first set up in the church built on the ground 
now Place d'Arms. Adjoining Notre Dame is the venerable 
Seminary of St. Sulpice, with its old gateway, courtyard and 
clock. The gentlemen of this seminary originally held val- 
uable rights affecting the entire island of Montreal ; much 
of the land yet remains in their hands. With the wealth 
thus brought to their coffers they have Hberally established 
and conducted many institutions of charity and education 
scattered throughout the city. We are now on Notre Dame 
street, the chief retail street in Montreal. Turning eastward 
a few feet from Notre Dame church, on the right is R, 
Sharpley & Sons, which will repay a visit ; a cordial invita- 
tion is extended and I am sure it will be time well spent if 
you call. A little above on the left, 167 1, J. & E. Mc- 
Entyre, merchant tailors. They make all my clothes, there- 
fore if they can fit me further comments are unnecessary. 
A httle above is Lanthier & Co. Let us go on we shall soon 
arrive at the Court House, a fine Grecian building of simple 



114 

and massive appearance. A few steps further on the right 
brings us to Nelson's monument, setting forth in bas-relief 
the various victories which the great naval hero won with- 
out the loss of a single British ship. This monument is in 
Jacques Cartier square, at the foot of which is the wharf of 
Quebec steamers. 

Keeping on Notre Dame street, directly beside the monu- 
ment, we find opposite to each other two buildings which 
form a sharp contrast. The one on the left is the new City 
Hall, a lofty and ornate specimen of French architecture ; 
facing it is the " old chateau," a structure probably thought 
very fine a century ago, when Benjamin Franklin set up in 
it the first printing press ever used in the city. Now the 
old place is a Normal School, and the discoveries of the 
illustrious American is explained there, and let us hope his 
witty sayings repeated and acted upon. We can now take 
our way to the river side, and a block from Jacques Cartier 
Square shall find Bonsecours Market, a vast substantial 
Doric structure. Here, if it be market day, we may see a 
little of the French Canadian peasantry, clad in their home- 
spun, and bargaining about their fowls, or eggs or butter 
with many queer words and phrases now almost forgotten 
in the Normandy whence they were first brought. 
Next to the market is Bonsecours Church, a rough-cast 
building with a high pitched roof and with a breadth 
of a few feet adjoining it, occupied by cobblers and 
cake shops. This church is the oldest Roman Catholic one 
in the city ; its entrance is at the farther side ; rarely is it 
unoccupied by some worshipers from the adjacent market, 
who bring in, without ceremony, their baskets and bundles. 
Suspended over the altar is a model of a ship in bright tin, 



"5 

in which usually burning tapers are placed. Returning, 
on the water-front, we note the ships and steamers from 
Liverpool, Glasgow, London, Havre, Rotterdam and other 
ports ; and on the right successively pass the Custom House, 
a triangular building, with a clock tower ; the office of the 
Allen Line, also having a clock and the fine building of the 
Harbor Commissioners. Next to it is a curious looking pile, 
with external hoist ways from top to bottom, this is the Cus- 
toms Examining Warehouse. Before we leave this vicinity, 
we shall glance backward at the street from Allen's office to 
the Custom House. 

Taking a short journey, still upon the riverfront, we come 
to the great works of stone masonry, which give to Mon- 
treal an enlarged canal to Lachine, so that vessels of much 
greater tonnage than the ones at present used may be em- 
ployed in the grain trade. This enterprise is one of a series 
of canal improvements by which Canada strives to retain 
and increase its business as a highway for the shipment of 
western produce to the sea-board. 

Retracing our steps, we take the wide street running up 
from the city, McGill, and mark the fine warehouses that 
adorn it. Arriving at Notre Dame street, a little above, on 
the left, John Murphy & Co., who invite you to inspect 
their stock, styles and prices. Adjoining is Mr. S. Carsley, 
who occupies the six or seven stores in succession, which 
you are invited to inspect, and I am positive you will be as 
favorably impressed as I was. Retracing our steps back to 
McGill street, we turn to the right, and immediately in 
front, just one block, is Victoria Square, which contains a 
statue of the Queen by Marshall Wood. Corner St. James 



ii6 

street opposite, on the left, is the Albert Buildings. Turning 
to the right we enter St. James street. The first building 
of note on the right is the Ottowa Buildings, on the left is 
J. J- Milloy, the tailor, where tailor-made suits for ladies are 
a specialty. A little further on the right, is G. W. Clark, 
The Souvenir Palace, where, if you enter, the sight of such 
rare curiosities and splendid souvenirs will cause you to 
wonder how you got in without a ticket, and a little above 
is Drysdale & Co., where any rehgious book may be had, 
Seaside Library, stationery, etc. This is the largest book- 
store in Canada and the most cheerful, as they have just 
added a waiting parlor, where you can meet a friend and 
visit " Alexander's" if you desire ; it is a httle above on the 
left where is kept confections, " bons bons," etc., and you 
can be served with the best the market affords. On our 
way to the Post Office from whence we started. At the 
corner of St. Peter street is the Mechanics' Institute. This 
building contains a good library, the admission fee to which 
is only nominal, and a very good reading room, having on 
its tables the principal daihes of America, the London 
Times, the Glasgow Herald, the Dublin Warder, the Edin- 
burgh Scotsman, and all the weeklies monthlies and quar- 
terhes of both England and the United States. Strangers 
can have free access to this reading-room, for the period of 
two weeks, by applying to Mr. Hogan, the proprietor of the 
new St. Lawrence Hall. 

Opposite to the Mechanics Institute is the Merchants* 
Bank, built in modern Italian style, with polished granite 
columns at the entrance ; the interior of this bank should 
be seen ; the man office is carried up two stories in height 
and is beautifully frescoed. Diagonally across the street is 



117 

Molson's Bank, also of Italian design, and richly decorated. 
We are now nearly at the hotel again, where we may con- 
clude for the present our inspection of the city. 

Resuming our sight-seeing, we shall now leave behind us 
th*e business streets, and take our way to the upper part of 
Montreal. Our suggestion is, take St. James street to the 
first crossing on the right as you leave the hotel, St. Peter 
street. After two blocks this street changes its name to 
Bleury street (when, if you find you are footsore, you can 
turn to the left to the end of the block, on Craig street, No. 
1722, where is located the celebrated Surgeon Chiropodist, 
Prof. Harris, who will attend to any trouble of the feet, 
that will be sure to make your walk a pleasant one, provided 
you are, like me, suffering from corns, bunions or ingrowing 
nails). At No. 17 Bleury street, we may enter Notman's 
studio, a large handsome, building entirely devoted to pho- 
tographic art. Here we may spend half an hour very pleas- 
antly in looking over views of Canadian scenery, and por- 
traits taken singly or skillfully grouped, representing the 
sports and pastimes of our winter. The chief of these 
pictures is that which shows a carnival held at the Victoria 
Skating Rink eight years ago, when H. R. H. Prince Ar- 
thur was present. This Photographic marvel, with others 
now surrounding it on the walls of Mr. Notman, attracted 
great attention and admiration at the Centennial Exhibition. 
Mr. Notman was photographer to the Exhibition and re- 
ceived it highest awards. 

Continuing on Bleury street we soon reach, on the left, 
the Church of the Jesu, with St. Mary's College adjoining 
it, conducted by the Jesuit fathers. This church is modeled 



ii8 

after one of the same name at Rome, where the remains 
of Loyola are entombed. The style of architecture is the 
round Roman arch. The interior is one of the most beau- 
tiful among American churches. Over the high altar is a 
fresco of the crucifixion. In the southern transcept the suf- 
ferings of the first Canadian martyr, burnt by savages, are 
depicted. Leaving the elegant house of prayer, we shall 
continue on Bluery street until we come to St. Catharine 
street. A few steps brings us to the Nazaieth Asylum for 
the Blind, attached to which (No. 1091) is a most ornate 
chapel, decorated in such a lovely manner as to lead one to 
suppose that it was done to encourage the sufi"ering inmates 
of the asylum to see. 

The next building on the side of the street (No. 1077) 
is the Roman Catholic Commercial Academy, a lordly 
monument of wealth and munificence, containing all the 
modern appliances for the practical training of youth, and 
presided over by an able staff of professors. If we keep 
going eastward on St. Catherme street, we pass on St. Den- 
nis street, the immense parish church of St. James, with the 
tallest spire in the city. Near by is the new church which 
is dedicated to Notre Dame De Lourdes ; water and relics 
from her shrine at Lourdes in France, are for sale in the 
basement. Adjoining the church are its conventual build- 
ings. 

Returning on St. Catherine street, we soon come to 
Christ Church Cathedral (Church of England), unquestion- 
ably the most beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture in 
Canada. It is of cruciform design ; its extreme width is 
100 feet. The spire, which is entirely of stone, rises to the 



119 

height of 224 feet. The materials of construction are Mon- 
treal limestone and stone from Caen, in Normandy, which 
latter, by exposure to the weather, has changed from almost 
pure whiteness to a yellow tint. On the grounds of the 
cathedral are erected the residences of the bishop and his 
assistants, the Synod Hall, and also a fine monument to 
Bishop Fulford, the first Metropolitan of Canada. The 
street running on the farther side of the cathedral is Univer- 
sity street, and No. 82, one block distant, is the Natural 
History Museum, containing a good Canadian collection. 
University street leads us down to Dorchester street, on the 
corner of which is the St. James Club House. Taking 
Dorchester street eastward, we pass on the left St. Paul's 
Church (Presbyterian). On the same side we soon have a 
7iew of the vast proportions of the new Roman Catholic 
cathedral in course of construction. 

Across the square on which St. Peter's is building, we no- 
tice a beautiful church, St. George's (Church of England), 
and adjoining it is its Sunday school, the largest and best 
conducted in Canada. On Dorchester street, fronting Do- 
minion Square on Peel street, is the Windsor Hotel. Next 
beyond on Dorchester street is the Victoria Skating Rink, 
where immense carnivals are held in the winter — the grand- 
est in the world. In the summer the spacious edifice is used 
for concerts, walking matches, pubfic gatherings, meetings, 
etc. Two blocks distant is the Foundfing Hospital of the 
Gray Nun, a visit to which is thus described : A long pro- 
cession of the nuns marched slowly into the chapel and 
knelt in prayer. Each nun had a crucifix and a string of 
beads attached, and whatever may have been the case with 
their thoughts, their eyes never wandered, notwithstanding 



strangers were gazing at them. Some were young and 
pretty, others old and plain, but the sacred character of 
their labor of love invested them all with beauty. We said 
the eyes of none wandered. Perhaps we ought to confess 
that the quick, sharp glance of one, apparently younger 
than the others, stared at us for a moment ; but it was only 
curiosity — womanly curiosity — and what woman has not 
the curiosity to look at me. Yet that moment was fruitful 
of thought, and as we saw the sad, dark-eyed beauty rise 
in her place and mechanically follow her more staid sisters, 
our mind went back to the days of chivalry, when gallant 
knights rode with lance at rest, or wielded the heavy battle- 
axe in heroic deeds that they might win recognition from 
the proud ladies who looked down upon them. And as we 
thought, it seemed that the most gallant deeds which men 
of this nineteenth century might do, would be to rescue 
young and pretty nuns — who wanted to be rescued — from 
the silence and sadness of the nunnery. 

We are now arrested by an immense structure even 
larger than the institution just passed ; it is the Montreal 
College, which educates ecclesiastics, and also day pupils, 
and is under the care of the Sulpician fathers. The two 
Martello towers in front of the college are relics of the 
times when incessant strife raged between the settlers and 
the Indians. Sherbrooke street is adorned with the private 
residences for which the citizens of Montreal are proud, 
and in your drive around the town, previous to or after 
returning from your Park Mountain drive, it will repay one 
to drive through Sherbrooke, Dennis and Dorchester streets. 
The McGill College, University and spacious grounds are 
the next ])oints. 



121 

As we pass along Sherbrooke street, in the distance we 
observe, as we glance up St. Famille street, the enormous 
Hotel Dieu, with a large, bright dome, a free hospital for 
all, under Roman Catholic direction. 

Returning to the Post Office, preferably by Beaver Hall 
Hill, we shall not fail to be struck by the number of hand- 
some churches erected there together. On the right is the 
Unitarian church, on the left, successively a Presbyterian, 
Baptist, and Jewish synagogue. Near by, on Craig street, 
is a towered building occupied by the Young Men's Chris- 
tian Association. 

We are soon at the new St. Lawrence Hall, and before 
mentioning the drives that may be taken outside the city, 
it may be well to call attention to a few places near at hand 
a business man or student may be interested in visiting : 
The Corn Exchange, foot of St. John street, the Merchants' 
Exchange, St. Sacrament street, the office of the Telegraph 
Co., and the Open Stock Exchange, St. Francis Xavier 
street. Near the beginnning of St. James street, on St. 
Cabriel street, is the Geological Museum, open daily from 
lo to 4, containing an admirable collection of North Amer- 
ican minerals, and many interesting fossils. Here may be 
seen what many geologists regard as the most primitive 
record of life, the Eoxoon Canaddense, first noticed at 
Perth, Ontario, by a Mr. Wilson. From the fact that the 
oldest fossil bearing stratum, the Laurentian, is the back- 
bone, geographically, of Canada, and because of the great 
variety of rocks found in the immediate vicinity of Mont- 
real, this museum is particularly attractive to a lover of 
scieijce. An effort is on foot to deprive the city of this 



122 

collection, and, for the sake of centralization, remove it to 
Ottawa. I offer this as an apology in case it should be 
removed. 

DRIVES. 

As I have said two or three times, by far the most pleas- 
ant drive is up the brow of Mount Royal, called the Park 
Mountain drive. There are, presumably, two roads : the 
shorter returns by McTavish street, the other by Bleury. 
The park was laid out by Mr. Olmstead, the designer of 
Central Park, New York, whose achievements there were 
recognized by a statue adorning one of the entrances. The 
river view from Mount Royal is delightful, and must be 
seen to be appreciated. I dare not attempt to describe it. 
A suggestion of how to get a hundred pictures of every 
conceivable shape or form of landscape views, containing 
mountain, plain, river, lake, hillside, valley, etc., etc., is to 
close the eye, place the hands on each end of the forehead, 
and every time the carriage moves a hundred feet open the 
eyes, and you have an entire new picture. Keep this up 
until you have had an elegant sufficiency of view. The 
next drive is around the mountain, and was the best until 
the completion of the Park Mountain drive ; it is pleasant 
and attractive, when it includes a drive to the Catholic and 
Protes*"ant cemeteries, giving a view of the monuments and 
tombs. The drive to Lachine is next, and is of interest. 
The drive to Longue Point, along the St. Lawrence in the 
opposite direction to the last, gives us an entirely different 
kind of scenery. It takes us through the village of Hoch- 
elaga, the term'nus of the new railroad, the Quebec, Mont- 
real, Ottawa and Occidental, which runs along the north 
shore of the St. Lawrence, and develops tracts of country 



123 

as yet unbenefitted by the iron horse. About a mile from 
the depot is the beautiful convent of the Sisters of the 
Holy Names of Jesus and Mary. Many young ladies from 
the United States have been educated at this convent. 
The next noteworthy building is the Lunatic Asylum. This 
immense house, containing nearly 300 maniacs, idiots, and 
imbeciles, is controlled by the Sisters of Providence ; these 
ladies, with the exception of six guardians for desperate 
characters, and a physician, have sole charge. They find 
no trouble in the care of the numerous inmates, and by their 
kindness and tact restore mental balance, in all the cases 
where cure is possible, in a tithe the time it used to take in 
the old days, when the insane were treated with harshness 
and cruelty. On our way to Longue Point, the villages of 
Longueuil, Boucherville and Varennes lie on the opposite 
bank of the river. The drive to the Back River is an attrac- 
tive one, and with citizens the most attractive of all ; the 
beautiful Convent of the Sacred Heart is situated here, and 
its grounds, finely laid out, lead directly to the water's edge. 
The bridge which spans the river at this place — a branch 
of the Ottawa — affords one of the characteristic sights of 
Canada, the piloting of a raft through a tortuous channel. 
The size of an ordinary raft, its great value, from $100,000 
to $300,000, the excitement of the captain and his French 
and Indian crew, with the constant perils threatening 
the whole structure, all conjoin to make up a scene to 
be dwelt upon and long remembered. Thus hoping the 
same will be said of your visit to Montreal, I shall advise 
all to visit 

QUEBEC. 
Tourists can either take the Grand Trunk, the North 
Shore, or the RicheHeu & Ontario Navigation Co.'s line of 



124 

steamers. Tickets can be procured of the Company's agent 
opposite the new St. Lawrence Hall building, where state- 
rooms, etc., may be secured. I assume that the river is 
the route selected, and that the reader is fairly on his way 
to that ancient city and former capital. Passing a group of 
islands below Montreal and the mouth of the Ottawa river, 
we soon arrive at 

SOREL, 

forty-five miles below — the first landing made by the steamer. 
It was built upon the site of a fort built in 1755, by M. De 
Tracy and was for many years the summer residence of 
many succesive Governors of Canada. Five miles below, 
the broad expanse of the river is called 

LAKE ST. PETER, 

which is about nine miles wide. The St. Francis river enters 
here. Large rafts are observed here slowly floating to the 
great mart at Quebec. 

THREE RIVERS 

is situated at the confluence of the River St. Maurice and 
St. Lawrence, ninety miles below Montreal, and the same 
distance above Quebec. It is one of the oldest settled 
towns in Canada, having been founded in 16 18. It is well 
laid out and contains many good buildings, among which 
are the Court House, ^the Jail, the Roman Catholic 
Church, the Ursuline Convent the English and Wesleyan 
churches. The population of Three Rivers is about 9,200. 



125 

BATISCAN 

is situated on the north shore of the river, one-hundred and 
seventeen miles below Montreal. It is the last place the 
steamers stop before reaching Quebec. It is a place of lit- 
tle importance. 

In passing down the St. Lawrence from Montreal, the 
country upon its banks presents a sameness in its general 
scenery, until we approach the vicinity of Quebec. The 
villages and hamlets are decidedly French in character, gen- 
erally made up of small buildings, the better class of which 
are painted white or whitewashed, with red roofs. Promi- 
nent in the distance appear the tile-covered spires of the 
Catholic churches, which are all constructed in that unique 
style of architecture so peculiar to that church. 

During your stay in Quebec stop at the St. Louis Hotel, 
and if carriages are desired the hotel will furnish the same. 
This was made necessary in order to stop the imposition 
that is practiced by outside parties. There are four splen- 
did drives laid out for the visitor and tourist ; a neat little 
pamphlet descriptive of the same, entitled " Views of the 
City of Quebec," will be given yoM free by asking the clerk, 
Mr. Phillips, or the news agent, Mr. King, of the St. Louis 
Hotel. 

CITY OF QUEBEC. 

Quebec, by its historic fame and its unequaled scenery, 
is no ordinary or common-place city, for though, like other 
large communities, it carries on trade, commerce and manu- 
factures ; cultivates art, science and literature ; abounds in 
charities, and professes special regard to the amenities of 



126 



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127 

social life, it claims particular attention as being a strikingly 
unique old place, the stronghold of Canada, and, in fact, 
the Key of the Province. Viewed from any of its ap- 
proaches, it impresses the stranger with the conviction of 
strength and permanency. The reader of American his- 
tory, on entering its gates or wandering over its squares, 
ramparts and battle-fields, puts himself at once in commun- 
ion with the illustrious dead. The achievements of daring 
mariners, the labors of self-sacrificing Missionaries of the 
Cross, and the conflicts of military heroes, who bled and 
died in the assault and defence of its walls, are here re-read 
with ten-fold interest. Then the lover of nature in her 
grandest and most rugged, as in her gentler and most smil- 
ing forms, will find in and around it an affluence of sublime 
and beautiful objects. The man of science, too, may be 
equally gratified, for here the great forces of nature and 
secret alchemy may be studied with advantage. Quebec 
can never be a tame or insipid place, and with moderate 
opportunities for advancement, it must become one of the 
greatest cities of the New World in respect to learning, art, 
commerce and manufactures. 

The city of Quebec was founded by Samuel de Cham- 
plain, in 1608. In 1622 the population was reduced to 
fifty souls. 

In June, 1759, the English army under General Wolfe 
landed upon the Island of Orleans. On the 12th of Sep- 
tember took place the celebrated battle of the Plains of 
Abraham, which resulted in the death of W^olfe, and the 
defeat of the French army. A force of 5,000 English troops, 
under General Murray, were left to garrison the fort. The 



I2S 

city is very interesting to a stranger ; it is the only walled 
city in North America. 

Cape Diamond, upon which the citadel stands, is three 
hundred and forty-five feet in height, and derives its name 
from the quantity of crystal mixed with the granite below 
its surface. The fortress includes the whole space on the 
Cape. 

Above the spot where General Montgomery was killed is 
now the inclined place, running to the top of the bank ; it 
is five hundred feet long, and is used by the Government 
to convey stores and other articles of great weight to the 
fortress. 

THE CITADEL 

will, perhaps, prove the point of greatest interest to many, 
from the historical associations connected therewith, and 
from the fact that it is considered an impregnable fortress. 
It covers an enclosed area of forty acres, and is some three 
hundred and forty feet above the river level. The zigzag 
passages through which you enter the fortress, between high 
and massive granite walls, is swept at every turn by formid- 
able batteries of heavy guns. On the forbidding river walls 
and at each angle or possible commanding point, guns of 
heavy calibre sweep every avenue of approach by the river. 
Ditches, breast-works and frowning batteries command the 
approaches by land from the famed " Plains of Abraham." 
The precipitous bluffs, rising alniost perpendicularly from 
the river three hundred and forty feet, present a natural 
barrier which may be swept with murderous fire, and the 
covered ways of approach and retreat, the various kinds 



129 

and calibre of guns, mortars, howitzers and munitions of 
war, will be viewed with eager interest. Among the places 
of note may be mentioned the Plains of Abraham, with 
its humble monument, marking the place where fell the 
illustrious Wolfe ; the Governor's Garden, with its monu- 
ment to Wolfe and Montcalm ; the spot where fell the 
American general, Montgomery ; St. John's Gate, the only 
gate remaining of the five that originally pierced the walls 
of the city ; the Roman Catholic Cathedral, with its many 
hne old paintings ; the Episcopal Cathedral ; the Esplanade, 
from which is one of the finest views in the world ; Houses 
of Parhament ; Spencer Wood, the residence of the Lieut. 
Governor, Laval University, &c., &c. 

The city and environs abound in drives, varying from 
five to thirty miles, in addition to being on the direct line 
of travel to the far-famed Saguenay, Murray Bay, Kamour- 
aska, Gacouna, Rimouski Gaspe, and other noted watering 
places. 

Quebec can minister abundantly to the tastes of those 
who Hke to fish, yacht, or shoot. Yachting, in fact, has 
become of late the leading recreation in Quebec. You can 
on those mellow Saturday afternoons of August and Sep- 
tember meet the whole sporting and fashionable world of 
Upper Town on the Durham Terrace or Lower Town 
wharves, bent on witnessing a trial of speed or seamanship 
between the Mouette, the Black Hawk, the Wasp, the 
Shannon, the Bonhomme Richard, and half a score of crack 
yachts, with their owners. 

Let us see what the city contains : — First, the west wing, 
built about 1789, by Governor Haldimand, to enlarge the 



I30 

old chateau burnt down in January, 1734; this mouldering 
pile, now used as the Normal School, is all that remains of 
the statel}* edifice of old, overhangmg and facing the Cul- 
de-Sac, where the lordly Count de Frontenac held his quasi 
regal court in 1691; next, the Laval University, founded in 
1854, conferring degrees under its loyal charter; the course 
of study is similar to that of the celebrated European Uni- 
versity of Louvain ; then there is the Quebec Seminary, 
erected by Bishop Laval, at Montmorency, in 1663 ; the 
Ursuline Convent, founded in 1636 by Madame de la 
Peltrie ; this nunnery, with the Roman Catholic Cathedral, 
which was built in 1646, contains many valuable paintings, 
which left France about 1789; the General Hospital, 
founded two centuries ago by Monseigneur de St. Vallier ; 
in 1759, it was the chief hospital for the wounded and the 
dying of the memorable battle of the 13 th September; Ar- 
nold and his Continentals found protection against the 
rigors of a Canadian winter behind its walls in 1775-6 ; the 
Hotel Dieu Nunnery, close to Palace Gate, dating more 
than 200 years back. 

As to the views to be obtained from Durham Terrace, 
the Glacis and the Citadel, they are unique in grandeur. 
Each street has its own familiar vista of the surrounding 
country. 

THE SHRINE AND FALLS OF STE. ANNE. 

At the distance of about twenty miles below Quebec is 
the village of Ste. Anne de Beaupre, sometimes called Ste. 
Anne du Nord, and always called La Bonne Ste. Anne, to 
whom is consecrated the parish church, erected about four 



131 - 

years ago by the Pope into a shrine of the first order, in 
which is a fine painting by the famous artist LeBrun, Ste. 
Anne and the Virgin, presented by M. de Tracy, Viceroy of 
New France, in 1666, to the church, for benefits received. 
The festival day of this Saint is the 26th of July, at which 
time thousands of pilgrims proceed not only by steamer and 
carriage, but on foot, to this holy shrine ; many walk the 
whole distance from Quebec to the church as a penance, or 
in performance of vows. The church is a new.building, the 
old one having been found too small for the accommoda- 
tion of the crowds of pilgrims who resorted there. In it are 
placed thousands of crutches, left by those who departed 
after being cured of the lameness and other maladies by the 
Bonne Ste. Anne, whose praises are world wide, for hither 
congregate daily thousands of pilgrims from all parts to be 
cured of their infirmities. Deposited in the sanctuary is a. 
holy relic, being a finger bone of the saint herself, on kiss- 
ing which the devotee is immediately relieved of all worldly 
ills and misfortunes. Wonder begins and misbelief vanishes 
on gazing at the piles of crutches ; there one beholds un- 
mistakable evidence of the unlimited medicinal power of 
the mother of the Virgin. Daily are the proofs of this 
power ; the stranger can see with his own eyes the decrepid, 
the halt, the sore, the lame, the wounded carried into the 
holy sanctuary and depart therefrom, after kissing the holy 
relict, cured and whole. Many are the scenes here witnessed 
of the despairing filled with renewed hope, and the feeble 
and faint glad again with strength and health. Countless 
are the anecdotes of the hopelessly blind and lame return- 
ing to their friends with sight and firm limbs, leaving behind 
them their bandages and crutches. Incredulity vanishes 



132 

before such evidence, and the sceptic leaves the shrine of 
Ste. Anne with convictions deeply settled in his soul. Within 
three miles of the village are the Falls of Ste. Anne, which 
consists of seven cascades, one of which rushes through a 
narrow chasm, which can be leaped by one of strong nerves 
and sinews, but powerful as Ste. Anne is, and devoted as 
she is to miracles, it is doubtful whether even she could save 
the unfortunate who misses his leap. 

The fishing above and below the Falls is very good for 
both salmon and trout, and the scenery of that wild descrip- 
tion generally characteristic of the Lauren tian ranges. 

MONTMORENCY FALLS 

is seven miles below Quebec. The road is very pleasant, 
passing through the French village of Beauport. Those who 
expect to see a second Niagara will be very much disap- 
pointed. The steam descends in silvery threads, over a 
precipice 240 feet in height, and, in connection with the 
surrounding scenery, is extremely picturesque and beautiful, 
but inspires none of the awe felt at Niagara. 

POINT LEVIS, 

on the other side of the river opposite Quebec, will interest 
the stranger very much, immense and stupendous fortifica- 
tions being in process of erection. Most tourists visiting 
Quebec, pay the Saguenay a visit. The ticket office of this 
line is opposite the St. Louis Hotel, where my genial friend^ 
Mr. R. M. Stocking, will cheerfully impart any information 
required, he being the agent for all railroads and steamboats 
in Canada or that connect with the same in the United 
States. 



^33 

WE CALL THEM TRAMPS. 

During the Centennial year many foreigners were always 
found among the list of passengers from every country. The 
proverbial EngHsh tourist cannot be mistaken by any but 
this year, 1876, we had many who were too green or un- 
sophistical to be in that class. Now this truthful occur- 
rence which I am about to relate is original and occurred 
upon one of the Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company's 
line of boats. The Englisman was relating to his newly 
found friend his opinion of the United States, etc., in his 
own peculiar style. Hi don't like this blarsted country you 
know ! Why, said his friend, what fault can you find with 
America ? Oh ! Hi've been all over it you know, and can't 
find any sawciety there. Society, said his friend, what do you 
mean by society ? Oh, dear me, you have no gentlemen or gen- 
tlemen's sons in h' America Why, what do you mean by gen- 
tlemen and gentlemen's sons ? Oh ! Hi mean gentlemen who 
never did any work you know, nor their sons either. You 
make a mistake there, my worthy friend, we have millions 
of them here but we call them tramps, and I have often 
thought it the best definition to a tramp I ever heard, for if 
there are gentlemen and their sons here who never did any 
work they will soon make good timber for tramps if they are 
not already. 

RIVER SAGUENAY. 

To the pleasure-seeker, or to the man of science, there can 
be nothing more refreshing and delightful, anything afford- 
ing more food for reflection or scientific observation, than a 
trip to that most wonderful of rivers, the Saguenay. On 



134 

the way thither, the scenery of the Lower St. Lawrence is 
extraordinarily picturesque; abroad expanse of water, in- 
terspersed with rugged soHtary islets, highly cultivated 
islands, and islands covered with trees to the water's edge, 
hemmed in by lofty and precipitous mountains on the one 
side, and by a continuous street of houses, relieved by 
beautifully situated villages, the spires of whose tin-covered 
churches glitter in the sunshine, affords a prospect so en- 
chanting, that, were nothing else to be seen, the tourist 
would be well repaid ; but when, in addition to all this, the 
tourist suddenly passes from a landscape unsurpassed for 
beauty into a region of primitive grandeur, where art has 
done nothing, and nature everything ; when, at a single 
bound, civilization is left behind and nature stares him in 
the face, in naked majesty; when he sees Alps on Alps 
arise ; when he floats over unfathomable depths, through a 
mountain gorge, the sublime entirely overwhelms the sense 
of sight and fascinates imagination. 

The change produced upon the thinking part of man, in 
passing from the broad St. Lawrence into the seemingly 
narrow and awfully deep Saguenay, whose waters leave the 
sides of the towering mountains, which almost shut out the 
very light of heaven, is such as no pen can jmint nor tongue 
describe. It is a river one should see if only to know what 
dreadful aspects nature can assume in wild moods. Com- 
pared to it the Dead Sea is blooming, and the wildest 
ravines cosy and smiling; it is wild and grand, apparently, 
in spite of itself. On either side rise cliffs varying in perpen- 
dicular height from 1,200 to 1,600 feet, and this is the 
character of the River Saguenay from its mouth to its 
source. Ha! Ha! bay, which is 60 miles from its mouth. 



135 

affords the first landing and anchorage. The name of this 
bay is said to arise from the circumstance of early navi- 
gators proceeding in sailing vessels up a river of this kind 
for 60 miles, with eternal sameness of feature, stern and 
high rocks on which they could not land, and no bottom for 
their anchors, at last broke out into laughing Ha! Ha! 
when they found landing and anchorage. This wonderful 
river seems one huge mountain rent asunder at some remote 
age by some great convulsion of nature. The reader who 
goes to see it (and all ought to do so who can, for it is one 
of the great natural wonders of the continent), can add to 
the poetical fiUing up of the picture from his own imagina- 
tion. 

This beautiful trip is easy and facile of accomphshment, 
as new and magnificent boats, rivaling in luxuriousness with 
any in our island waters, run regularly to Ha ! Ha ! bay, on 
board of which the pleasure seeker will experience all that 
comfort and accommodation which is necessary to the full 
enjoyment of such a trip. 

To the foregoing descriptions we append an extract from 
the letter of a writer in the Buffalo Co7nmercial Advertiser, 
who has apparently gone over the "ground" with much 
satisfaction. Speaking of the great pleasure route, he says : 

" There is probably no route in the known world present- 
ing more attractions to the tourist than that from Buffalo 
to Montreal and Quebec, via. Lake Ontario and the St. 
Lawrence river ; presenting, first, the visit to the great cat- 
aract, next, Lake Ontario, the river St. Lawrence, and the 
romantic scenery of the 'Thousand Isles '; then the subUme 
rapids, increasing in grandeur to the great culmination of 



136 

the ' Lachine rapids,' and finally finishing with the beautiful 
scenery of and around the Falls of Montmorency, at Que- 
bec, and down the Saguenay — all combine to make up more 
of the wild, romantic and subHme than can be found in the 
same number of miles and almost any traveled route in the 
known world." 

Returning to Montreal for our trip down Lake Champlain 
and Lake George, to Saratoga, Albany, New York and Bos- 
ton, as most of the tourists have tickets for these destinations, 
the routes need only be mentioned. The Delaware & Hud- 
son Canal Company Railroad, and Central Vermont have 
ticket offices in Montreal, where information is courteously 
dispensed by obliging, gentlemanly clerks at all times. It 
would be useless here to print the time tables of the differ- 
ent roads, as changes occur too often for such information 
to be reliable. As your are supposed to be quartered at the 
new St. Lawrence Hall, which is in the heart of the city, 
and contains the Grand Trunk Railroad and Delaware & 
Hudson Canal Company Offices, and directly opposite is the 
Central Vermont office, presided over by A. C. Stonegrave, 
any time-table required is easily obtainable ; also adjoining 
is the office of the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation 
Company. 

All railroads issuing summer excursion tickets through, 
over this line, allow passengers, if they desire, to procure at 
Port Kent depot a ticket which entitles them to visit Au 
Sable Chasm, and to return to Port Kent for 75 cents. 

Leaving Montreal in the morning, by taking the first 
train on the Delaware & Hudson Canal Railroad, if you 
wish to make Lake George, Saratoga or Albany the same 



137 

day, your ticket may read Lake Champlain Co. steamers^ 
but it is all the same — boat and rail belong to the same 
parties. Should you desire to take Lake Champlain, leave 
Montreal in the afternoon and go to Au Sable Chasm, via 
Port Kent, remain over night at Lake View House, taking 
the boat at 8 a. m. from there to Fort Ticonderoga, and 
then down Lake George, or proceed on the train at 10:30. 
By getting off at Port Kent the distance to Lake View 
House is only three miles by stage over a first-class plank 
road ; therefore, it may be said, if you desire to make both 
lakes on the same day, you are compelled to leave Mont- 
real in the afternoon and go to Au Sable Chasm via Port 
Kent, and remain over night at the Lake View Hotel, 
which will be found to be an excellent house ; taking the 
boat in the morning. If tickets read by the Central Ver- 
mont Railroad you go to BurHngton, where you arrive for 
supper, and as the boat does not leave there until nine 
o'clock in the morning, you have plenty of time to see that 
beautiful city before the leaving of the boat ; at any rate 
you won't have to rise as early as if you were at Plattsburg. 

MY FIRST VISIT TO AU SABLE CHASM. 

As long as anything shall lemain green in my memory, I 
feel confident it will be the impression of that charming 
view and grand natural spectacle, Au Sable Chasm. 

Arising early in the morning, if not with the lark, a very 
good second in the race, I was invited by the manager of 
the Lake View House to visit the chasm. Accepting the . 
same, we proceeded through the gate and down the steps. 
which I did not stop to count ; but the number was suffi- 



140 

presumed you get there. Lake George Junction is where you 
change cars and connect for Baldwin, which is a ride of 
about fifteen minutes. You are now supposed to have ar- 
rived on board the company's steamers Horicon or Ticonderoga 
and are sailing up Lake George. Now, if the reader expects 
me to describe Lake George, I shall simply say No ! with a 
large N. It is too much ; its praises have been written and 
sung for the past half century by thousands. I shall with 
pleasure and relief to myself ask the loan of your scissors. 
Thanks ; now we can comply with your wishes : We have 
started on our trip through this magical lake. It is difficult 
to describe the quiet deHght one feels as he gazes on the 
expanse of the tranquil azure spread before him like a part 
of the sky inlaid on the emerald bosom of the earth. 
Peace is in the very air which lazily slumbers over the water,, 
while the monotone of the silvery ripples rolling on the yel- 
low sands, and the musical moan of the breeze in the cone- 
scented pines, seem to carry the soul back to other days. 
Lake George is, indeed, like a work of art of the highest 
order, for it has the quality of improving, the more one 
studies its attractions, and the ever-harmonious flow of 
lines constantly suggests a composition of consumate genius 
in which every effect has been combined to produce a cer- 
tain ideal. 

Now, dear reader, I have a favor to ask of you ; read this 
little book as far as Saratoga description commences ; then 
lay it aside, and feast the eyes on Lake George for the next 
two hours, and, if you can describe its beauties, do so to 
the best of your ability, and forward to me, 21 Chestnut 
Park, Rochester, N. Y., and it shall have a place in this 
work, and you shall have the credit for the same ;— the task 
was too much for me. 



141 

CAMPING OUT. 

The lake is a famous camping-ground, during July and 
August, and its enjoyments, with bits of sound advice, can- 
not be better given than by the following, from Stoddart's 
charming guide to Lake George : 

" The lovely islands are suddenly astir with busy throngs. 
Rocks are decked with blue and gray, the tree tops blush 
Avith bunting ; shores put on a flannelly hue, and shadowy 
point blossom out in duck and dimity. It is safe to say 
that in the course of the season a thousand people taste the 
pleasures and overcome the difficulties that but season the 
glorious dish of camp life at Lake George. Among the 
necessaries are a Hght axe, long handle frying-pan, tin pail 
for water or coffee, tin plate, pint cup, knife and fork, and 
fishing tackle, A stove-top laid on a fire-place of stones 
and mud, and suppHed with one length of stove-pipe, is a 
positive luxury to the cook. Spruce boughs for a bed, with 
two or three good woolen blankets for covering, will be 
found very comfortable ; a small bag to fill with leaves or 
moss for a pillow pays for itself in one night. Flannel or 
woolen clothing, with roomy boots and a soft felt hat, is 
ordinarily the safest dress. Ladies, wear what you have a 
mind to — you will, anyway — but let it be flannel next to 
you, good strong shoes under foot, and a man's felt hat over- 
head ; take the man along too — he will be useful to take 
the fish off your hook, run errands, etc. 

Boats and provisions may be obtamed at almost any of 
the hotels. Bacon, salt pork, bread and butter, Boston 
crackers, tea, coffee, sugar, pepper and salt, with a tin box 
or two for containing the same, are among the things need- 



144 

genial in its bright skies and pure, fresh atmosphere. Con- 
ventionaHties that obtain at other resorts are not held here, 
and it is possible for gentlemen to wear blue shirts and soft 
hats, and for ladies to travel without male escort other than 
the necessary compHment of guides to furnish motive power, 
from one end of the wilderness to^the other. 

Full dress is seldom seen, even at the most fashionable 
resorts, and is exceeded in absurdity only by the conven- 
tional " stage trapper," who occasionally burst upon the 
astonished wilderness in fringed buckskin. Your right to 
enter the best society will not be questioned because of 
dress. Clothing ordinarily worn is sufficent for all occa- 
sions here." 

The Adirondack region is steadily growing in favor as a 
resort for persons afflicted with throat and lung troubles ; 
and while it is not by any means'^a sure cure for «//, how- 
ever deeply seated the disease may have become, yet if per- 
sons so afflicted will go therejin^jtime, they will find the dry, 
pure air, impregnated as it is with balsam and pine, to be 
of infinite refief, and many living witnesses are there found 
to prove its benefits. Several articles have been written 
upon this subject which misled the public, and, in conse- 
quence, many people, past all possiblejcure, have been sent 
there, with only natural results. We would only say, con- 
sult your physician, and, if you are not past cure, we be- 
lieve this section to be as nearly affording a remedy as any 
spot on the continent. 

Places of entertainment, from the well-appointed hotel on 
the border to the rude log-house and open camp of the in- 
terior, are found at short intervals throughout the entire 



145 

wilderness, all waiting with open doors to receive the 
stranger. 

Guides and boats may be had at all the hotels. 

Under head of " Gateways " will be found the nearest 
points reached by railroad and stage routes, distances, etc., 
to the most prominent* resorts. 

GATEWAYS. 

PORT KENT 

is the station on the Delaware & Hudson Canal Company's 
Railroad on through route. New York to Canada, all par- 
ties who desire to visit Au Sable Chasm, three miles by good 
plank road, and Lake View House, stop off. 

The best point for entrance into or exit from the Adiron- 
dacks. Stages run to all points from Au Sable Chasm to 
Au Sable Station and Forks, etc., etc. 

From Plattsburg, take Chateaugay Railroad, thirty-six 
miles to Lyon Mountain, thence by stage four miles to 
Ralph's, on upper Chateaugay Lake. 

From Au Sable (20 miles west of Plattsburg on branch 
railroad). Stages leave here every morning (Sundays ex- 
cepted) on arrival of early trains, for French's, 18 miles; 
Frankhn Falls, 20 miles; Bloomingdale, 28 miles; Loon 
Lake House, on Loon Lake, 28 miles ; Rainbow House, 
on Rainbow Lake, 35 miles ; Martin's on Saranac Lake, 
37 miles ; Paul Smith's, on St. Regis Lake, ^8 miles ; Pros- 
pect House, on Saranac Lake, 41 miles; Bartlett's, on Sar- 
anac Lake, 49 miles. 

From Ehzabethtown delightful trips are made into the 
mountain region, through Keene Valley via. Indian Pass, 



46 



ON GREEN ISLSND, LHKE GEORGE. 



Connected with the main land by hridge. Added this year 
Mwn QiTpEn rinn €^cttagES, 

gi^ty gooms fcr Qncsts. 

^TagnificEnt ^xtr^a Dining goom, 
^IVIUSIC HALIv AND BAIvIv ROO^/[..-s- 

THIS SPLENDID NEW HOTEL IS OPEN FOR GUESTS FROM 

JJ[NlE 10 J[\IJIL QcjOBER iSy 



IT IS SUPPLIED -WITH 



Passenger Elevator, Electric Lights and Bells in every Room, as well 
as other Modern Conveniences. 

|tp Jocation tl|e |inest oi| the Ja^ev 

THE TABLE IS EXCELLENT, 

THE SERVICE UNSURPASSED. 

Easy of access by Boats from the North or South, Bakhviu or Caldwell, 
where trains with Palace Cars arrive from Saratoga, New York and inter- 
mediate points several times daily. 

For Descriptive Circulars and Plan of Rooms. Address 

iVI. O. Browx, 

Lessee and Proprietor, 

Bolton Landingi Lake George, Warren Co., N. Y. 



U7 

and to Au Sable Pond, one of the most beautiful spots in 
the wilderness, also by North Elba, Lake Placid and Wil- 
mington Notch, passing immediately under the shadow of 
Whiteface and Haystock Mountains, and out at Au Sable 
station, or return to EHzabethtown. 

FACILITIES FOR LAKE TRAVEL. 

The Champlain Transportation Company run a regular 
hne of steamboats the entire length of the lake, making 
three round trips daily (except Sundays), and stopping at 
all way landings. The Horicon of this line, making the 
regular connections with the railroad, is a fine side-wheel 
steamer 203 feet long and 52 feet wide over all, and is 643: 
tons burden, and will accommodate comfortably 1,000 peo- 
ple. I can truthfully say that upon no inland lake in the 
world is the passenger service so promptly and regularly 
done, and passengers so elegantly cared for as upon Lake 
George. 

Caldwell is the railroad terminus, and is the largest town 
on the lake. It is situated at the extreme southern end, or 
head of the lake (the waters flowing north and emptying 
into Lake Champlain, immediately at the ruins of old Fort 
Ticonderoga). At Caldwell, is located the handsome dock: 
and depot building of the railroad company, whose trains 
run down the dock immediately to the steamers — one of 
which leaves upon the arrival of each train for all points 
down the lake. The railroad was extended to this point in 
1883, thus saving at least one hour of time and better 
faciUties for the accommodation of tourists and pleasure 
travel. 



148 

LAKE GEORGE. 

Every American, or tourist, should see it at least once. 
It is the largest of the Adirondack chain, 346 feet above 
the sea, and 247 above Champlain, 35 miles long and 
from two to four in width, and fed from mountain brooks 
and springs coming up from the bottom, making it transpar- 
ent. It is beautifully dotted with over 200 islands, and 
surrounded by high mountains, some rising 2,000 feet above 
the water, clothed with foliage and dotted with villas and 
picturesque camps ; one feels like leaving the boat and re- 
maining in this bower of enchantment. The steamers touch 
at all points of note and arrive at the Sagamore Hotel, 
where you can, if you desire, remain over. 

CONVENIENCES. 

The proprietor, Mr. M. O. Brown, long and popularly 
known as a hotel man on the lake, will spare no pains to 
make your sojourn attractive in all respects. 

The Hotel is elegantly furnished throughout, has a fast 
running elevator, and is lighted by the Edison incandescent 
electric light in every room. Fifty rooms added this year, 
a new extra dining room, music hall, and ball room. It 
is supplied with pure water from a Mountain spring. 

The Cuisine is perfect. The Chef and assistants are 
from the leading New York Hotels. The Head Waiter, 
Mr. J, T. McGovern, with his excellent and full corps of 
carefully trained and experienced waiters, the best that 
could be obtained. This is the only hotel on the entire 
lake that employs white male waiters. 



149 

In the main office is the Telegraph Office and all requis- 
ites needed for comfort. 

The Lake steamboats land at the dock directly in front 
of " The Sagmore." A large number of steam and saiHng 
yachts, and a flotilla of smaller boats are provided for the 
use of guests to order. 

The Livery Stables attached keep constantly on hand sad- 
dle horses, buggies, buck-boards, phaetons and other car- 
riages of all descriptions, to be had by applying at the 
office. 

The Lake steamboats, Horicon and Ticonderoga, ar- 
rive every morning bringing passengers from Montreal, 
Lake Champlain and Whitehall, direct to the wharf of the 
Sagamore where courteous attendants will always be in 
readiness to assist and serve the guests of this House. 

As I have cheerfully r^ommended tourists for the last 
three years to make a short stay at least at this delightful 
resort, the Sagamore, and never met one afterwards who 
did not thank me for the suggestion ; I say to you remain 
over. I am confident you will never regret it. Connections 
are, however, arranged for, and you can, if you wish, leave 
immediately for Caldwell or 

SARATOGA SPRINGS, 

the focus to which the fashionable world of the United 
States, indeed, of Europe, is annually drawn. Here are 
intellectual men, styHsh men, the beaux of Society, and 
the man of the world; ladies of social rank, the managing 
mother, the marriageable daughters, the fluttering bee of 



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fashion, and the more gentle bird of beauty, are found 
amidst the throng, for Saratoga is cosmopoHtan. As a 
gentleman said to me one day, " I can meet more of my 
friends in one hour during the season at Saratoga than I 
could at home in a week." The ladies here have ample 
opportunities to display their pecuHar charms and graces. ' 
The sporting gentleman can also find an opportunity to 
gratify his pecuhar tastes ; the philosopher may study hu- 
man nature ; the invalid find perfect health ; in fact every 
one at Saratoga finds that peculiar pleasure they most 
desire. Of all the elegant hotels which here abound we 
have not space to mention. I will, therefore, speak of those 
I know, the United States and Adelphi, confident they can 
please any one paying them a visit. 

The Adelphi Hotel — This new, comfortable and petite 
hotel is located on Broadway, contains one hundred rooms, 
is convenient to the springs, etc., etc. Its piazza is elevated 
one story above the street and commands a splendid view 
up and down Broadway, as well as Phila street opposite. 
The proprietor, Mr. Wm. H. McCaffery, is too well known 
to the traveling community to need one word from me, and 
the gentlemen connected with the office and other depart- 
ments of the house, are too well qualified by being the 
choice of the proprietor, to need commendation. It is " my 
home " when in Saratoga ; that is all I have to say against 
it. It is the universal opinion of tourists, that no watering 
place on the continent, of Hke size, can compare with the 
unwearying charms of Saratoga. The hotel arrivals some 
days are upwards of one thousand. One might become 
almost tired of the world and vote every other place a bore. 



52 




STANDASB MIKElAl WATEK. 

CATHARTIC, ALTERATIVE, a Specific for disord- 
ersof the STOMACH, LIVER and KIDNEYS, 
ECZEMA, MALARIA, and all IM- 
PURITIES of the BLOOD. 



So enviable a name has this famous Mineral Water that the managers of 
inferior Mineral Springs, desirous of imitating the natural purity of the 
bottled water of Congress Spring, inject a powerful acid in their bottled 
water to preserve the crude ingredients in solution— being so heavily laden 
with 

LINIK AND IROK DKPOSIT. 

With such contrivances, bogus testimonials and doctered analysis cards, 
they seek to rival the pure Medicinal Water of Congress Spring. 

The regular season visitors to Saratoga fully understand these crude, harsh 
waters, many of them after painful experiences. In proof of this we 
can Produce a GREAT MANY RESPONSIBLE NAMES. 
But the Saratoga visitors without experience, and many who use the bottled 
waters (often labeled as curatives for disorders which they positively agra- 
vate), should remember that crude, harsh ^Mineral Waters produce head- 
ache, a sense of burning and internal irritation, and do irreparable injury 
to the digestive organs and kidneys. 

CONOR'ESS WATER, 

PURE. NATURAL AND RELIABLE, 

NONE GENUINE SOLD ON DRAUGHT. 
For Sale by Druggists, Grocers, Wine Merchants and Hotels. 
BOTTLE ii rn ?9 MARK. 

Ask for Congress Water and insist on having >0 OTHER. 



153 

bat Saratoga scenery, Saratoga atmosphere and Saratoga, 
life would still charm by its ever pleasing pecuHarities. 
Mount McGregor, the place selected above all others for its 
pure air, etc., etc., as a residence for our hero. Gen. U. S. 
Grant, who arrived at Saratoga on June i6th, 1885, (during 
my stay for health), so I had the pleasure of seeing the old 
veteran while he was being conveyed to the Mount Mc- 
Gregor R. R., which ascends to the top of the mountain, 
where visitors can go almost every hour and get a view that 
will well repay them. I left Saratoga on the morning of 
the 19th of June, and was informed by the conductor of the 
Mt. McGregor R. R. that General Grant rested well the 
previous night and slept ten hours. As all are aware our 
Hero departed this life July 23d, the cottage, however, is 
kept in the same manner as the day he left it and will be- 
come an historic place for visitors who come to Saratoga 
from all parts of the world. 

It is a fact and worthy of note here, that for the past four 
years there has not been one day during the months of July 
or August, but they have had a heavy frost on Mount Mc- 
Gregor. I can vouch for the truthfulness of this item be- 
cause I know him. He is the conductor of the train on the 
Mt. McGregor R. R., weighs 280 pounds and his name is 
Frost. (He is a broad-gauge conductor on a narrow-gauge 
railroad.) 

Saratoga contains 10,000 inhabitants, and in the summer 
season every private house is turned into a boarding house 
of one or the other class, and therefore boarding houses 
abound — no space to mention all of them here. 

Next in order comes the Springs. First in the list is the 
old and ever popular Congress Springs. 



154 

CONGRESS SPRINGS 

was discovered nearly a century ago — 1792^-by Hon. 
James Taylor, member of Congress from New Hampshire. 
The park connected with the Springs is beautifully laid out 
with walks, groves, flowers, trees, and ponds in which 
speckled trout abound, fountains, statuary, Hve deer, etc., 
etc. ; where night and day the beauty and fashion come for 
pleasure and to imbibe the water of Columbia and Congress 
Springs, which are within the enclosure. Those who are 
posted come here and drink, thus avoiding those waters of 
other springs which are irritating in their nature, and harsh 
and inflammable to the stomach, injuring the kidneys and 
producing results irreparable. Read Congress Springs book 
for 1886. 

HATHORN SPRINGS 

was accidentally discovered in 1869, and is named after the 
Hon. H. H. Hathorn, its owner. It is a powerful cathartic. 
The water is bottled for sale, and is probably the most solid 
water known, as it is said to contain eight hundred and 
eighty-eight grains solid contents to a gallon. 

EXCELSIOR SPRINGS AND PARK, 

some distance from town, as well as others I shall mention 
you can visit when you take a drive. Washington Spring 
is on the grounds of one of the hotels. Crystal Pavilion, 
High Rock, Star, Seltzer, Red, a Spring, Geyser or spout- 
ing spring, Robert Ellis, The Vichy, " The Champion 
Spouting Spring," Hamilton, Putnam, Flat Rock, Magnetic, 
Sulphur, Iron and Diamond, as well as a number of others 



155 

which have just been discovered, or may have been before 
this reaches you. If, however, you are not satisfied with 
the springs herein mentioned, all I ask is for you to visit 
the ones mentioned as I did, and accept the cordial invita- 
tion of each to take a glass, and if you do not feel the next 
day that there are springs enough at Saratoga, your feelings 
will be different from the sensation felt by the writer of this 
article by a large majority. The drives in this vicinity are 
numerous. The road to the cemetery (whicli, I am in- 
formed, by one of the oldest inhabitants, in order to start, 
they were obHged to borrow a corpse from an adjoining 
county, and now a select few who wish to die happy come 
and are decently interred,) has been improved, so that the 
drive there is very much enhanced thereby. By far the 
prettiest drive, however, is through Broadway from High- 
land Hill for two miles to Glen Mitchell. The most fash- 
ionable drive is that to the lake. Immense sums of money 
have been expended to widen and beautify this drive, which 
is I GO feet wide and shaded with trees, and is sprinkled to 
lay the dust. Visitors pass up on one side and down the 
other. Saratoga Lake is eight miles long and two and one- 
half wide. On an eminence on the western shore is Moon's 
Lake House, proverbial for its sumptuous game suppers. 
Parties fond of fishing or boating can enjoy this favorite 
pastime to their full extent. Its fitness for acquatic , sports 
has been verified by the many events of that nature which 
have taken place on its placid waters since 187 1, when the 
Ward brothers vanquished two EngHsh crews selected from 
the best professional oarsmen of Great Britain. Racing is 
the turf event of the year, and cannot be described here, 
only mentioned. 



156 

Life, at Saratoga is two-fold — Home and Hotel. The 
former is enjoyed by its citizens, who possess some of the 
most luxurious, refined and elegant houses to be found in 
the United States. Hotel or fashsionable life is ephemeral 
in its nature, and, like the beautiful butterfly, its duration is. 
short. In these few brief months wealth, beauty, fashion, 
and other ingredients not so desirable, intermingle, and 
amid the gay whirl and excitement of the ball-room at night 
one is in a constant ecstacy. From his visit to the springs 
in the morning, promenades or drives in the afternoon, the 
music, lawn sociable and glittering fireworks at night, one 
wonders what time there is for even nature's balmy, sweet 
restorer — sleep. Anticipating your stay at Saratoga to have 
come to an end, you can depart for Albany any morning 
via Delaware and Hudson Canal Co.'s R. R., or West Shore 
R. R., who run solid trains to and from Saratoga to New 
York, and New York to Saratoga, Pullman Buftett cars. 
Some having tickets to New York by rail or boat, and de- 
sire to visit Boston, I advise everyone to take the Fall River 
Line to Boston. If you have tickets to Boston via Albany 
take the Boston and Albany Railroad, which is first-class. 



157 



NEW YORK. 

To those visiting New York for the first time, a few 
-words of advice may not come amiss. I therefore suggest 
arriving, if possible, by daylight. Everyone in the city 
minds their own business — a credit in some ways ; but some 
people make it their business to fleece the stranger. I 
would therefore say, keep your own council. If informa- 
tion be required ask a policeman. Upon arrival, take cars 
or stage, if possible, to destination. If you desire any of 
the hotels represented in this work, you will always find one 
or more trusty porters at trains or boats. Avoid, if possi- 
ble, the hacks, unless you make a fair, square bargain be- 
fore entering the vehicle ; your trunk or valise may accom- 
pany you with carriage. You will always find upon all 
trains or boats, courteous agents of the diff'erent baggage 
and express companies, who will take your check, giving a 
receipt for the same, which relieves you and saves much 
trouble and annoyance, as their delivery system is prompt 
and their charges a stipulated price ; no deviation, except 
for quantity. 

Something should be said here regarding the metropoHs 
of the American Continent, but space as well as time pre- 
vents. As everything seen here is in grandeur superior to 
elsewhere, the impression made upon the mind while here 
will be everlasting, I shall not try to befog the mind with as 
meager a mention as I am capable of giving, but simply 



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159 

mention the principal hotels. The first one at hand is the 
Grand Union Hotel, 426. street near the Grand Central 
Depot. Money-getting being the chief aim of life, its 
proper expenditure should not prove of secondary import- 
ance. That travel consumes a much larger portion of our 
finances than it should, is evident from the fact that but few 
possess the scret of retrenching in that direction. Two im- 
portant factors of expense in travel is carriage hire and 
transfer of baggage, and that the traveling public is more 
generally becoming disposed to throw off their former bur- 
den, is patent from the army of guests who daily register at 
and fill the 600 rooms (reduced to $1.00 and upwards per 
day), at the Grand Union Hotel, opposite the Grand 
Central Depot, New York City. Its European plan, ele- 
gant restaurants, cafe, lunch and wine rooms, unexcelled 
cuisine, moderate prices, courteous treatment, unchallenged 
management, coupled with its guests incurring no expense 
for carriage hire, or baggage transfer, with elevated railway, 
horse cars and stages to all parts of the city passing its 
doors, renders the Grand Union one of the most desirable 
of homes for travelers in the city, and also estabHshed its 
success and world-famed popularity. 



MURRAY HILL HOTEL 

Park Avenue, Fortieth and Forty-first Streets, 

One Block from the GEAND CENTEAL DEPOT. 




i6i 



A MAGNIFICENT HOTEL. 

The Murray Hill Hotel is situated on Park Avenue, in 
New York City, but one block from the Grand Central 
Depot. A more convenient hotel site for the accommoda- 
tion of the newly arrived traveler who would at the earliest 
moment find a home could not have been selected. The 
house stands upon the highest grade in New York, and, of 
course occupies the healthiest of locations. It is of great 
size, extending two hundred feet on tlie Avenne, more than 
two hundred feet on Fortieth street on the one side, and 
on Forty-first street on the other. It is of granite, brown 
stone and brick, fire-proof. When the traveler finds a hotel 
in every way meeting his demands for comfort, he may 
honestly praise it while he disparages no other. For 
New York contains many costly structures, whose proprie- 
tors severally befieve that their guests have reason to be 
satisfied. Hotels are not advertised as second-class by 
those that manage them. The man who is used to com- 
fort at home is perhaps as good a judge as any one con- 



l62 

cerning what constitutes a satisfactory hotel. But, if you 
come to New York in the summer, I recommend you to 
this house, for in all this city there can be no healthier 
place in the warm season. There is a satisfaction felt at 
once upon entrance to this beautiful house. The vestibule 
is apparently just large enough, the handsome, short flight 
of marble steps that lead to the oflice seems to be just long 
enough, the great hall seems just high enough to satisfy 
fully the idea that one has of proper architectural propor- 
tion. The floor is of marble, but not the hideous black 
and white inset diagonal. The Sienna is set against the 
slate and is a carpet pattern. One rather expects it to be 
soft and yielding to the foot, it looks so like a Wilton. 
The cflice is roomy; not three or four only, but forty peo 
pie may range themselves along its handsome counter ready 
to sign, in regular order, the register. The book stand is 
no contracted affair, but space enough is given to allow 
display of, and easy access to, all periodicals and news- 
papers. Everything is on a grand scale, but altogether 
convenient. The great fire-place, which, with its huge 
burning logs, in winter invites the guest to share its comfort, 
is an attraction that merits and receives enthusiastic com- 
ment. The electric clock, lighted at night, the chandeliers 



163 

which at the proper time, because of the h'ght touch of a knob 
somewhere, instantly illuminate halls and parlors, have their 
supply of electricity from the great machines in the base- 
ment, and the ice that is used for any purpose through all 
the house is made in huge condensers there. All the 
departments seem to be at all times in the best working 
order. All the employes seem ever willing to do their best 
to please the guest. There is a painstaking to furnish in- 
formation when it is asked ; if one clerk does not know he 
directs you to one who does. In the matter of meals, they 
are ready at all hours. At the time of registry, the choice 
is made between the American or the European plan, but 
the restaurants above and below stairs are always available. 
It would be easy for me to compHment the management 
and the efficient office staff, but that goes for the saying. 
As space is limited, I need only advise you to give the 
Murray Hill Hotel your patronage once ; they will see that 
you make it your home thereafter. 



164 



■THE- 



eST TO 6-7-7 BROAD-W-AY. 




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ATTRACTIONS OF THE GRAND CENTRAL HOTEL. 

This Hotel is universall}- acknowledged the coolest in New York. The 
wide straight halls runniug'from Broadway to Mercer street, insure perfect 
circulation of air. The Ave large and elegant parlors. The handsomely 
decorated and cheerful Dining and Supper Rooms, It is provided with two 
of Otis & Co."s celebrated Elevators. Si.x outside Fire Escapes have been 
recently added, which, with five wide stairways, from roof to ground tioor 
makes the "GRAND CENTRAL HOTEL" 

THE SAFEST HOTEL IN AMERICA. 

Each floor in the building is nightly patrolled b; a Watchman with a tell-tale Cloclc. 

FAYMAN & SPRA6UE, Proprietors. 



i65 

The next on the list is the Grand Central Hotel, Broad- 
way, one of the largest in the city. It has lately been re- 
fitted, re-decorated and re-furnished, and under its present 
proprietors, Messrs. Fayman & Sprague, is receiving the pat- 
ronage its merits deserve. It is run on the American and 
European plans, so that anyone can be pleased. Its graded 
prices, its location and appointments, together with the 
friends one meets here, as it is patronized by more South- 
erners than any hotel in New York, makes it a pleasant 
place for tourist or traveler. I make it my home when in 
the city, and feel confident you will be pleased and recom- 
mend your friends there after a visit, the same as I do you. 
There was some talk of changing the name of this " land- 
mark," on account of the thorough change in the hotel and 
management, although I confess it would be apphcable to 
the situation, as everything else has been changed ; it would 
be better for its patrons to advertise the changes than the 
new name. Therefore, no matter what they call the Graud 
Central, it will please you as a hotel, and its prices are not 
extravagant. 

While in New York, about the middle of June, I thought 
it would be a good idea if some one of the many merchants 
in the city were to advertise in this little volume ; knowing 
it is not thrown away but retained as a souvenir, it will be 
a perpetual advertisement ; therefore I induced Ehrich 
Brothers, 8th avenue, 24th and 25th streets, to take a page, 
and after visiting the many departments and seeing articles 
useful and ornamental for male and female, to wear or use, 
every day in fife from the cradle to the grave, from a needle 
to an anchor, at prices so low were it at my home I could 






IN THE i WORLD. 



reilii«?J 






ORSENdFOre 

mm 

Sample Dvfi 



looa h"'^'f^"''^n™™ii I'll iw«'J« 






MENDS EVERYTHING. 

IGLASS. CHINA. LEATHER, BOOKS, FURNITURE 

STRONG as Iron. SOLID as a Rock. 

ISEND CARD OF DEALER WHO DOES NOT KEEP 
I1T& li»:iB. POSTAGE FOR SAMPLE TIN CAN ! 

iRutsia Ccmprt Co., Gloucester, I 



ilii 



imsm 






vofM, " 

.-, BOOI^S, 
'LEATHEF^ 

'i/*iuSICAL 

ISrAfuAfrv; 



fllSUNEClU&LLED. 






Le Paoe's Liquid Glue is usrd hv rullnuin Talact' Car Co.. Mason & Hamlin 
Orf:r;in and Piano Co., and by thousands of tii-st class nianufactuivrs and mechanics 
throuf^uout the world for all kinds of fine worlv. Pronounced stronoest adhesive 
KNOWN. Sold in tin cans for mechanics and amateurs, and in bottles for family use. 
The total quantity sold between Januari", ISSO, and .January, 1S85, in all parts of tlie 
•world amounted to over 32 million hottles. 



167 

never get away from* their stores with a cent in my pocket ; 
therefore, I say, do not carry to^ much money along with 
you unless you take the precaution to have a dray or express 
wagon to remove the goods. Space would not permit 
mentioning articles desired, and would therefore invite 
tourists and others to visit their stores, and inspect all de- 
partments. I would like to say here that I published this 
book and advised the advertisers therein to take the space, 
feeling it would bring back to them four-fold what they paid 
me. It will, therefore, afford me pleasure to have you 
mention to any of the advertisers that it was through my 
soHcitation and this work that you favored them with your 
patronage ; it will do you no harm and benefit me. 

BOSTON 

is one of the most interesting of American cities, not only 
on account of its thrilling traditions and historical associa- 
tions, but for public enterprise and social culture, educa- 
tional and Hterary faciUties. Boston is pecuHarly Boston, 
and no one can describe its public, private or natural beau- 
ties in the space allotted me here. The principal sights are 
Bunker Hill Monument, Faneuil Hall, the Common, Public 
Garden, Old and New State houses, PubHc Library, Old and 
New South Churches, Natural History buildings, Agricul- 
tural building. Institute of Technology, New Trinity Church, 
Mount Auburn, Harvard University building, Music Hall, 
the Great Organ, City Hall, Hospitals and other sights too 
numerous to mention here. Trimountain, or Three Moun- 
tains, as Boston was originally called, is a peninsula of about 
700 acres, almost surrounded by the sea. Its climate in the 
hottest part of seasons is deliciously cool, bracing and in- 
vigorating, and it is undoubtedly one of the healthiest cities 



i68 

THE FALL RIVER LINE 

BETWEEN 

NEW YORKmBOSTON 

KIWPOET AK» Mil SIVEl. 

QX P A I\/f P P Q J PILGRIM AND BRISTOL. 

o I nrvivi cno ^ providence and old colony. 

THE GREAT ROUTE BETWEEN 

YOlik fill tjl^jtlip ftt^ofij?. 

CAPE COD, 

MARTHA'S VINEYARD, 
NANTUCKET, 

WHITE MOUNTAINS, 

MOUNT DESERT, &2.. Sec. 

D'^Yw^ Service During Summer of 1 886. 

2 BOATS EVERY WEEK DAY BETWEEN 

New York and Fall River. 

ONE BOAT ON SUNDAY. 

Splendid Bandsof Music on each Boat. 

Leave New York, Pier 28 North River, foot of Murray Street. 

Connectiug trains leave Boston from Old Colony Station, corner South 
and Kneeland Streets. 

Annex connects to and from Brooklyn and Jersey City, only 49 miles of 
Kail between N. Y. and Boston. No night changes. 

Send for list of F'all River line tours and copy of "Old Colony and 
Pll^:riiii Land," mailed free. 

GEORGE L. CONNOR, 

General Passenger Agent New York. 



169 

in the world. Its harbor, one of the best on the coast, is 
about twenty miles long by eight wide. Its many islands 
and coast are lined with thousands of delightful summer 
resorts, reached by numerous railroads and steamboats 
every hour of the day, forming a panorama of busy life and 
pleasure to be seen nowhere else. Its drives inland are none 
the less interesting and picturesque, whether we visit the 
classic shades of old Harvard, the romantic walks at 
Wellesley, or the hundred delightful suburban villages, 
whose well-kept streets, bright lawns and elegant gardens 
simply reflect the elegance and taste within the homes of 
those who made Boston what it is. The excellent horse car 
service of Boston is one of the best institutions. Nowhere 
else in the country is this important convenience to visitors 
so complete as here. The broad, handsome, open cars 
reach all points within ten miles of the City Hall, and give 
visitors a most delightful opportunity to see the attractions 
at the least possible charge. 

Boston, the capital of Massachusetts, embraces Boston 
proper, East Boston, South Boston, Roxbury, West Rox- 
bury, Brighton, Charlestown and Dorchester. Boston proper, 
or old Boston, was very uneven in surface, and originally 
presenting three hills. Bacon, Copp's, the Fort, the former 
of which is about 130 feet above the sea. The Indian 
name of this peninsula was Shawmut, meaning "Sweet 
Waters." A narrow strip of land called the " Neck " joined 
the peninsula to the main land ; this neck was formerly 
overflowed by the tide, but has been filled in and widened^ 
and is now thickly built upon. East Boston occupies the 
west portion of Noodle's or Maverick's Island. Here is 
the deepest water of the harbor, and here the ocean steam- 




If 3-our child is lacking' in the elements of perfect childhood, trv Ridge's 
K * ; , f ^"^ ^'^^"" ^^ ^^^'^ Manufacturers, indorsed bv hundreds, that it is the 
best food for the growinK child, we believe more children have been suecess- 
rully reared upon Kidf,'e's Food than upon all the other foods combined Try it 
mothers and be convinced of its worth. Send to WOOL RICH & CO., 
Palmor, ."Tlams., for pamphlet. Sent free to any address. Its perusal will 
save much anxiety. 



171 

■ers chiefly lie. The wharf now used by the Cimard steam- 
ers is i,ooo feet long. South Boston extends about two 
miles along the south side of the harbor, an arm of which 
separates it from Boston proper. 

The first white inhabitant of Boston was the Rev. John 
IBlackstone, supposed to have been an Episcopal clergyman, 
and to have arrived in 1623. Here he Hved until 1630, 
when John Winthrop, (afterward the first Governor of Mas- 
sachusetts) came across the river from Charlestown, where 
he had dwelt with some fellow immigrants for a short time. 
About 1635 Mr. Blackstone sold his claim to the now pop- 
ulous peninsula for ^30, and removed to Rhode Island. 
The first church was built in 1632 ; the first wharf in 1673. 
Eour years later a postmaster was appointed, and in 1704 
(April 24th) the first newspaper, called the Boston News 
Letter^ was published. The " Boston Massacre " happened 
March 5, 1770, when three persons were killed and five 
wounded by the fire of the soldiers. In 1773 tea was de- 
stroyed in the harbor, and Boston bore a conspicuous part 
in the opening scenes of the Revolution. The city was in- 
corporated in 1822, with a population of 45,000, which had 
increased to 136,881 in 1850, to 177,850 in i860, and 250,- 
526 in 1870. By the recent annexation of the suburbs of 
Erighton, Charlestown, West Roxbury, etc., the population 
has been increased to 341,919 (in Februa.ry, 1876). Popu- 
lation 362,876 in 1880. On the 9th of November, 1872, 
one of the most terrible conflagrations ever known in the 
United States swept away the principal business portion of 
Eoston. The fire broke out on Saturday evening, and con- 
tinued until noon on the following day, when it was brought 



172 

under control, but again broke forth in consequence of an 
explosion of gas, about midnight, and raged until 7 o'clock 
Monday morning. The district burnt over, extended from 
Summer and Bedford street on the south, to near State 
street on the north, and from Washington street east to the 
harbor. About 800 of the finest buildings in the city were 
destroyed, causing a loss of $80,000,000. 

OBJECTS OF ANTIQUARIAN INTEREST. 

Among "buildings with a history," the most interesting 
in the United States, next to Independence Hall, in Phila- 
delphia, is Faueuil Hall. The famous edifice, the " cradle 
of liberty," is in Dock Square, which also has an historical 
fame because of the meetings of the Revolutionary patriots 
that was held there. The building was erected in 1742, 
by Peter Faneuil. a Huguenot merchant, and by him pre- 
sented to the town. Its original dimensions were 100 by 
40 feet. Destroyed by fire in 1 761, it was rebuilt in 1763, 
and enlarged to its present dimensions in 1805. A full 
length portrait of the founder, together with the pictures of 
Washington, by Stuart, of Webster, by Healey, of Samuel 
Adams, by Copeley, and portraits of John Quincy Adams, 
Edward Everett, Abraham Lincoln, and Governor Andrew 
adorn the walls. The basement of the hall is a market. 
The old State House, in Washington street, at the head of 
State street, was erected in 1748, and was for half a cen- 
tury the seat of the " Great and General Court of Massa 
chusetts^" being the building of which such frequent men- 
tion is made in revolutionary annals. It has long been 
given up to business purposes, the interior having been 



173 

■completely remodeled, and the edifice surmounted by a roof 
which has wholly destroyed the quaint effect of the original 
architecture. Christ Church (Episcopal), in Salem street, 
near Copp's Hill, is the oldest church in the city, having 
been erected in 1722. It has a lofty steeple, and in the 
tower is a fine chime of bells. The Old South Church, cor- 
ner of Washington and Milk streets, is an object of much 
interest, it is of brick, and was built in 1729, on the site 
where the first edifice of the society had stood since 1669. 
The church was used as a place of meeting by the heroes 
of '76, and during the British occupation of the city, was 
used as a place for cavalry-drill. It barely escaped the 
flames in the great fire. The Old South Society having 
erected a new place of worship on Boylston street, the old 
building was offered for sale, when a patriotic effort among 
the people originated a subscription for the purpose of rais- 
ing funds to secure its preservation. King's Chapel (Uni- 
tarian), corner Tremont and School streets, was founded in 
1686, and the present building, a plain granite structure, 
■erected in 1750-54. Adjoining the church is the first bury- 
ing ground established in Boston. In it are buried Isaac 
Johnson, " the father of Boston," Governor Winthrop, John 
Cotton, and other distinguished men. On the corner of 
Washington and School streets, is the Old Corner Book- 
store, a building dating from 1712. The old North Bury- 
ing-ground, on the brow of Copp's Hill, was the second es- 
tablished in the city, and is still sacredly preserved. Here 
lies three fathers of the Puritan Church, Drs. Increase, Cot- 
ton and Samuel Mather. 



174 



THE OLD CEMETERY IN THE COMMON. 

In that corner of the Common bounded by Tremont and 
Boylston streets, and lying directly between the Masonic 
Temple and the Public Library, is an old burying-ground, 
shut off from the Common and the streets by an iron fence. 
It was formerly known as the South, and later as the Cen- 
tral burying-ground. It was opened in 1756, but the oldest 
stone is dated 1761. The best known name upon any of 
the ancient stones is that of Monsieur JuHen, the most 
noted 7'estaiirateur of the city a century past, and the in- 
ventor of the famous soup that still bears his name. This 
cemetery is the least interesting of the old burying places 
of Boston, and is consequently seldom noticed by the 
stranger. 

There are according to the directory nearly two hundred 
hotels in the city. With that fact in view I shall mention 
first the American House and United States. In suggesting 
to intending visitors to Boston the name of the " Old 
United States Hotel" the proprietor feels justified in recom- 
mending the house for just what it is, no more, no less. I 
am at home when in the United States Hotel, it pleases me, 
and I am positive it will please you. 

The United States Hotel is one of the oldest and best of 
the well-established hotels of Boston. Its fame is wide- 
spread. Its seal dates back to 1826, and from that early 



ns 

date to the present it has been maintained up to the best 
standard, but never better than now. It is situated directly 
opposite the Boston & Albany, within two blocks of the Old 
Colony, and only a short distance from the New York &: 
New England, and Providence Railroad Stations, and is the 
nearest hotel to the retail portions of the city, and the great 
commercial centres. 

The "United States" is occupied largely in winter by 
families owning their own private residences in the adjoin- 
ing towns, who come into the city and make their residence 
at this famous old house for the winter months. Durmg the 
summer season, therefore, their great family rooms are avail- 
able for tourists, families, and pleasure parties, giving ac- 
commodations that could not otherwise be afforded, and so 
allow guests the most extensive variety of rooms at the low 
est possible charges. During the summer months the rates 
are reduced to $2.50, $3.00, and $3.50 per day, according 
to accommodations, with board ; rooms without board $t.oo 
and upwards, thus giving visitors an opportunity of making 
this hotel their permanent headquarters, from which to make 
daily excursions to the thousand places of historical interest 
with which the city and suburbs abound, and to the great 
manufacturing cities which surround it ; while the fifteen 
hundred summer resorts and boarding-houses down the har- 
bor and along the coast are available every fifteen minutes 
by boat or rail. Thus the " United States " will be found 



176 



AMERICAN HOUSE 



BOSTON 



-^ Oentral liocatinn, 5eii^Ect^''entilaticn. -^ 



m mm 



THE NEAREST 

FIRST- CLASS HOTEL 

TO NORTHERN AND EASTERN DEPOTS. 

Particularly Desirable for Families and Tourists. 
Conveniently Located for either Busi- 
ness or Pleasure. 



American Plan, $3*00 per DAY and upwards 
Rooms only | .OO ** ** " ** 

According: to Size and L,ocation of Room. 

l^ARIvORS AND BATMS K:>ZTRA. 

Refitted and Greatly Improved. 

BY RECENT ALTERATIONS. 



HENRY B. RICE & Co., Proprietors. 

Hanover, near Washington St. 



177 

not only a most accessible and convenient hotel on arriving 
at Boston, but will be found equally comfortable and econ- 
omical for permanent as well as transient guests, while the 
faciHties for reaching all the suburban localities and various 
sea-shore resorts are unequalled by any hotel in Boston. 

The American House, Boston, is the nearest first-class 
hotel to the Northern and Eastern Railroad Depots, and 
can without hesitation, be recommended as one of the best 
iu the city. It has broad, well lighted corridors, spacious 
pubHc rooms and all modern improvements for the con- 
venience of guests, and has long been noted for the cleanli- 
ness and comfort of its rooms, the invariable excellence of 
its table, and that air of home-like comfort which is so re- 
freshing to the tired traveler. It has a large number of 
suites particulary desirable for famiHes and large parties, 
and contains no dark rooms in which to store away an un- 
suspecting midnight guest. It is perfectly ventilated, has 
six stairways from top to bottom, and recently renovated 
and improved ; furnishes superior accommodations at more 
moderate rates than most first-clas» hotels. It is regularly 
kept on the American plan, charging $3.00 and $3.50 per 
day, according to size and location of rooms, and is de- 
servedly popular with the best class of pleasure and commer- 
cial travelers, but rooms are let with or without meals at 
the option of guests. 



178 

One of the best traveling companions on a pleasure trip 
is a reliable Railway Guide, and we advise the tourist to 
get the best, as a cheap guide is like a cheap watch — never 
on time. 

As we hold that this Httle volume is not thrown away, but 
taken home for future reference, a little advice of how to 
start upon a trip, &c., would not come amiss. We say 

ist. Select your route. 2d, Buy your tickets and secure 
your parlor car seats. 3d, Show your tickets to the baggage 
master and have your baggage checked. 4th, Go to the 
news stand and ask for The " Phat Boy's" Racy Description 
of the St. Lawrence River, or the Pathfinder's Railway 
Guide, as it is the oldest railway guide published, and the 
July number will contain the best railroad map ever pub- 
lished. It is the only recognized mouthpiece of the Pas- 
senger Agents Association ; one can be assured of its re- 
liability. The Phat Boy requests his friends to send to 
them next spring for a copy of their summer tours to select 
your vacation trip. Address, Pathfinder, Boston, Mass. 
5th, Don't bother the conductor by asking questions, as he 
has all he can do to attend to his train, and the Pathfinder's 
official tables and valuable maps tell the whole story. 

I have endeavored to describe faithfully and correctly the 
route over whicli you have passed, dear reader. There are, 



179 

doubtless, some whose knowledge of particular points is 
greater than my own ; to those I say most cheerfully, note 
them down, and forward to me, 2 1 Chestnut Park, Roches- 
ter, N. Y., and, I assure you, they shall have a position in 
the next edition of this work, as my object and aim is to 
make this a perfect guide for any person desirous of making 
this, the finest trip on the continent. 

After returning home and resuming the cares and posi- 
tion which you left behind for this trip, may you be filled 
with animation, life and health acquired by your excursion 
trip down the St. Lawrence, etc., and the pleasant mem- 
ories of scenes witnessed, wonders visited, as well as the 
beauties of nature revealed, you will have double the vigor 
to prosecute the duties devolving upon you, with only spare 
time on hand to speak to your acquaintances and friends, 
recommending them to make the same trip, not forgetting 
to mention The *' Phat Boy's" Racy Description of the St. 
Lawrence River as a guide for hotel and all points of inter- 
est connected with the trip. I will now lift my hat to the 
tourist and others who have made the trip, and bid them a 
temporary farewell. Hoping to see, next vacation yourself 
and friends, I only say 

ADIEU. 



i8o 



B/ILL ^ i 



ROCHESTER, Isl. Y, 



FRAGRANT VANITY FAIR, 

SUPERLATIVE, 

CLOTH OF GOLD, 




STRSlGHTtCUTiCIGSRETTES, 

People of refined taste who desire axceptionally 

fine Cigarettes should use only our Straight 

Cut, put up in Satin Packets 

and Boxes of 

lOs^ 20s^ 50s, 3,xi.cl lOOs, 




THE DELAWARE & HUDSON R. R. 

IS THE ONLY LINE TO THE GREAT 

ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS! 

ELIZABETHTOWN, KEENE VALLEY 
AND LAKE PLACID 

Are, beyond all question, the finest mountain resorts in America. Good 

hotels are numerous and life may now be enjoyed under the shadows of 

these noble peaks in every degree of comfort and elegance. 

THE DIRECT ROUTE TO 

CHATEAUGAY, LOQIT, SARAUAC AND 

ST. hegis lakes. 

LAKE GEORGE! 

The most beautiful of Waters, SAEATO&A, the queen 

of resorts ; LAKE OHAMPLAI-N, AUSABLE CHASM, 

OOOFEESTQWN, HOWE'S CAVE AND SHARON 

SPRINGS, are reached only by this line. 

It is the Shortest and Most Comfortable Route between New 
York and Montreal. 

IF GOING EAST, WEST, NORTH OR SOUTH 
ASK FOR TICKETS VIA THE DELAWARE 
& HUDSON R. R. 

Send two stamps for illustrated " Souvenir " to 

J. W. BITRDICK, Gen. Pass'r Ag't, 

Allbaoy, N. Y. 



LIBRARY OF 




CONGRESS 



017 397 392 5 



I 



1 '**v 



